headers 2.0L do-able?
#16
Lead, the thread with dyno sheets is here --> http://www.protegeclub.com/showthread.php?t=37003
My original dyno sheets are on my website, see signature below. I have all of the 'bolt-ons'..intake, cams, exhaust.... I dyno it, I drive it on the track, and I show it too. I love my P5!!!
Rod, high five to you. With all the reading (yep, I'm a nerd) I did last night I've come to the conclusion that since I'm hearing no pinging, aka pre-ignition, I'm probably good to go. The EGR valve itself is still operable, just the tub leading to it is cut and filtered. The cutest little K&N filter I've ever seen...even has a little metal 'shroud'
My original dyno sheets are on my website, see signature below. I have all of the 'bolt-ons'..intake, cams, exhaust.... I dyno it, I drive it on the track, and I show it too. I love my P5!!!
Rod, high five to you. With all the reading (yep, I'm a nerd) I did last night I've come to the conclusion that since I'm hearing no pinging, aka pre-ignition, I'm probably good to go. The EGR valve itself is still operable, just the tub leading to it is cut and filtered. The cutest little K&N filter I've ever seen...even has a little metal 'shroud'
#17
it's definitely do-able. i had a new EGR bung made, then i welded shut the old EGR bung. a new midpipe was made with a cat and second o2 sensor behind the cat was put in. with the header, i can really feel the sinosoidal wave of our power band.
#18
Originally Posted by tonkabui
it's definitely do-able. i had a new EGR bung made, then i welded shut the old EGR bung. a new midpipe was made with a cat and second o2 sensor behind the cat was put in. with the header, i can really feel the sinosoidal wave of our power band.
#21
Karen you won't notice any problems with your egr being capped...it's more of a safety feature than anything else. I woudln't run a turbo car or any other form of FI without one though unless you're running full standalone EMS to control knocking.
Looks good Truc.
Looks good Truc.
#22
i am sold
626 header it is then...i kind-of like the challenge with the "minor mods"
the more ya know....the funner it is IMHOP
it base dyno'd @ 100whp/113ftlb with 120k and a leaky main seal, no mods....
so this will be cool to do when i rebuild or source the(...hope i get this right...) FS-ZE
626 header it is then...i kind-of like the challenge with the "minor mods"
the more ya know....the funner it is IMHOP
it base dyno'd @ 100whp/113ftlb with 120k and a leaky main seal, no mods....
so this will be cool to do when i rebuild or source the(...hope i get this right...) FS-ZE
#23
Originally Posted by Phantom Cruiser
So...any differences between a one-piece and a two-piece? (no bikini jokes!!) Stainless versus ceramic coating?
i'm not sure what the difference is between ceramic coated and SS. i think the coated header will give you lower under hood temps compared to SS. SS runs cooler than mild steel that's uncoated. that's my understanding at least. as for the 2-piece, it's sort of annoying because the joint between the 4-2 has sprung a leak on me once. the bolts that came with the header aren't the best, so i switched to SS bolts, used some exhaust gasketing, then topped it off with copper silicone. on the bolts, i used some threadlock. hopefully, it will keep it from springing another leak. i blew that gasket running the car hard for 4 hours but i haven't had a chance to run it hard again yet. (tires are expensive)
oh yeah, and the blasted SS turns purple if you don't wipe off the header clean. i've tried everything to get rid of the uneven purpling, but will have to resort to the brillow pad daveB has.
speaking of which, how's your header looking matty, after you brillow padded yours?
#24
I bought some of the aluminum oxide pads myself both in medium grits and fine grits....since I brushed it at Dave's shop it has dulled a little with one line of copper/rust looking on one of the primaries....I think it's just a lower quality steel than advertised.
p.s. if you brush the header you'll need to re-brush them every few weeks to keep the finish looking it's best. When it's fresh it looks awesome and as it starts to cure in it looks the best!
p.s. if you brush the header you'll need to re-brush them every few weeks to keep the finish looking it's best. When it's fresh it looks awesome and as it starts to cure in it looks the best!
#25
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
Karen you won't notice any problems with your egr being capped...it's more of a safety feature than anything else. I woudln't run a turbo car or any other form of FI without one though unless you're running full standalone EMS to control knocking.
Looks good Truc.
Looks good Truc.
thanks matty!
the reason i made everything fit was to make sure i won't be throwing any CEL's. plus with a working 2nd o2 sensor, i'll know when my cat is blown. i hear that with only one cat, its life span is shortened quite a bit.
#26
yeah the secondary cat is more or less just a scrubber and will get clogged much faster since the primary isn't there to filter out the junk.
Either way you'll have at LEAST 30K miles without problems...I've rarely seen cat's clogged up before 100K
Either way you'll have at LEAST 30K miles without problems...I've rarely seen cat's clogged up before 100K
#27
From Karen's post - should i consider her mod to the EGR? How exactly do i do it (pix please) and how much gain can i expect (don't need dyno - just 'like when you went to a SRI kinda' bump'...)
If there was no difference - please let me know.
Also, I do plan to stay n/a so i will do the wagner header/catback and call it good.
Thanks!
If there was no difference - please let me know.
Also, I do plan to stay n/a so i will do the wagner header/catback and call it good.
Thanks!
#29
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
there's no performance gain to be had by capping off the EGR.....i would think that she meant the gain between a 4-1 and a 4-2-1 header...