well after many tears i finally have my head ready to go back on the block. I was so worried and pissed for about an hour because when i got the head and intake manafold back from GTP freakin UPS had a field day playing soccer with the box or something. some nice dings in the intake manafold in the spot that bolts up to the dinamic chamber. Thank god for mazda though, i went into the dealer (cause i go there at least once a week so i am known) and the head tech was like yeah we could probably fix her up and about 15 min like new. So i said what do i owe you and being the nice guy he his just made me buy him a soda pop. SO thats good news so tomarrow i start. God please let her start and run like a purring kitten. Wish me luck i am a little scared but i do have some help. Let you know what the port, pollish, valves, springs, J-spec Cam shafts and lightened (15LB) fly give on the dyno after a little break in time. if she runs

 

I am also interested. Please keep us posted!

 

i will keep everyone posted as to how everything goes. I cant start putting it in until late friday, about 5:00 pm and then i work sat so i cant finish her up until sunday.

 

Can you list for us all the specs/parts for exactly what you had done, and possibly a total cost?

 

good luck

 

I have to have him email it to me again cause i lost it but i got a great deal. I was going to get the work on a stage two head including beefed up valve train. Unfortunately with buying gasgets seals and everything that goes with a project like this. my cash fund started to rapidly drop. So i asked him to do the best he could on it for about 1500 bucks. long story short i got about $1800.00 to 1900.00 worth of head work for $1500.00
(which was the full stage 2 head plus beefed up springs and some valve train work) GTP told me that my total cost would be around $1800.00 but since he said he would try and keep it around 1500 bucks thats what he would charge my card for. So they really hooked me up. And the headwork was beautiful.

 

O i forgot to mention that i started getting her back together friday night. I am about half way done, just have to change the timeing belt, get the exhaust manafold on, and check over the valve train again (clearance and stuff) put the top on and plug everything back up. o yeah and PRAY I should finish Sunday.

 

good luck bro,,,,, and speaking of timing belts , I have to change mine on the 1.8

 

Have fun popping off the drive shaft pulley, and disconnecting the motor mount on that side what a pain, not hard work just.... stupid. But good luck, and replacing that belt when your in there is always a good investment

 

ok update on my head work right now. Its day two of working on her. about 8 hours, (ran into some problems and had to find special tools, for removing the crank pully) but now i need to call GTP and find out why all of my valve clearanced are crap. i gave them the specs so i dont understand. I am wondering if they did some grinding to the new valve stems. If so then i need to find out if they checked to make sure the shim buckets dont bottom out on the seals. any info on this is greatly wanted. But other than that almost done

 

If they did ANY work to the valves or valve seats (esp. installing new valves) you should *not* expect the valve clearances to come out the same. One of the main purposes of adjustable valve clearance is to accomodate variances in machining. I sure hope that your local Mazda store has purchased the $2,000+ FS Valve Shim Assortment.

Oh yeah, I made a "special tool" for removing my crank pulley using a 3' long piece of angle iron and a 30mm long, 8mm x 1.25 thread bolt. I should post instruction on how I did it.

 

Sweet on the tool i think i am going to make one to, but for now i am going to see if i can stop the fly wheel with a screwdriver