kenchan

so how are you guys resetting the ECU from time to time?
did you pull out the memory backup power to the ECU?
with the OBDII, you need to reset your ECU every week or so
or the ECU will adapt to its new environment and detune it...
putting you back to about where you started with the stock air box.

any one with circuit layout (wire diagram) please post it here
so that we can make a switch to cut power to the ECU memory.

Rider69

I never actually reset my ECU. Eventually the CEL went away as the ECU learns the new environment.

00117064

At my tunnig shop they told me that the goal to reset the ECU was to prevent the check engine light to be on. When you reset the ECU the computer will now work with the new information. They told me that the check engine light wont be on after this procedure.
So my feeling is that if the check engine light dont ¨flash¨ after this procedure the reason is that the ECU keep in memory the new parameter...

kenchan

i think the cel indicates that it notices new environment...this is probably when you get the most power. if you reset it and the ecu adapts to the intake, then its not going to give you much
improvement other than just more noise.

there are some improvements that even after the ecu adapts
you get better throttle response, but thats probably about it.
but it is a good starting point to add more power like a wet kit.

00117064

My stupid dealership said that installing an intake will void my drivetrain warrenty.

Is there known issue that intake could damage the engine?
I mean what a bunch of morron... The mazda speed have an intake, a turbo and the drive train warrenty is not affected.

I never damaged an engine and this is my third car. My 2 other car where 14 years old when I sold them. So if that protege engine doesn't survive for 4 years I will be terribly mad about mazda.

kenchan

it does change the parameters of the intake tract and the amount of air it would suck in, but since these are NA cars i seriously doubt that it would cause any motor damage....heck i think it would improve performance looking at how rich the motor is running in the first place (too rich, imo).

carguycw

Your Mazda shouldn't have this problem. Some cars have very aggressive OBDII (BMW's, newer Toyotas with knock sensors) and will pull out all of their ignition advance if they see non-stock input, but AFAIK the Protege doesn't suffer from this problem. Once you've installed the part, there's no need to repeatedly reset your PCM after it's figured out how to run properly with the new parts.

kenchan

carguycw- cool info. so whats so different about our OBDII's that doesnt require it? just narrower parameters?

so the procedure is to install intake, get CEL, then reset?
or just drive around with the CEL for about a week? will it
automatically go off?


btw, how do you reset the ECU on the pro5's? just unplug
the clock fuse for about 30min?

Lerxst

I installed the AEM SRI and had no CEL. Did I just get lucky or am I missing something?

My dealership is actually selling and installing AEM SRI's. If you have them install it, you have to sign a waiver for damaging the engine by hydrolock. The only way you're going to do that is by driving the car into a puddle more than a foot deep. If you're buying the Ractive, then you pretty much have to submerge the car's front end (up to the window sills). And what's the big deal? A new motor is only $12,000CDN

carguycw

The CEL (MIL, technically) should NEVER light up if the intake is designed and installed properly.

MIL's don't turn off by themselves unless the problem is intermittent and doesn't happen more than a few times. If the problem is ongoing, the MIL will remain lit until the PCM is reset, even if the cause of the problem is fixed first.

kenchan

i think i wanna try an aem intake. today i was pulling the car hard at wot redline to redline up to 4th and i can feel that
the motor needs more air.

where in chicago have them instock? a store locally had
them but its labeled 'for ATs'

wats the difference between a AT one and MT?

Funky Buddha

The AT one is shorter than the MT one since the tranny is larger on auto cars. The one for MT goes down as far as the injen but it's not as long so it doesn't sit in the wheel well and it's longer than the ones off of ebay.

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/sho...threadid=25632

00117064

Finally I installed the Ractive intake. I was surprise, our engine move alot... I cleared about 1 inch from the engine to the brake master cylinder and still it was not enought. I pushed further the intake and I moved the bracket to get another 1/4 inch and I also put a little peace of rubber on the intake. Now everything is ok, it doesn't rattle at all and it fit perfectly. My gas millage seem to be worst than ever since this mod, bit the sound is really nice. I was arrested by the cops because I was reving to high and it was to noisy But I did not get a ticket... just a warning. The good thing is that when you drive normaly youdont heard any difference. You heard the difference after 4Krpm.

But the gaz millage is an issue seriously. I made a test when driving normaly and no joke the gaz millage is really really bad.

pauche

00117064,

Your fuel mileage is poor because you are probably taking your rpm over 3.5k too much.

If you want to getter better mileage, I suggest shifting at 3-3.5k rpm for normal driving and crank it up when you feel like spirited driving.

I am also planning on getting a SRI too in the future...

Later.
P

kenchan

funky budda, thanks for the info...dang, i need to wait for the MT
one then..

btw, on that link you posted it showed your car. are you using
some Night Shades on the headlights? looks nice.