120fwhp & 125tq
February-2nd-2003, 01:50 PM
#31
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: "Hotlanta"
Posts: 151
cam install
My cam install went pretty smoothly. After I got through a little alignment issue, it was fairlt easy. Took about 3-4 hrs. The longest part was just taking everything off and torquing the bolts back a quarter turn at a time. If I did it again, I could probably do it in about 21/2-3 hrs. Well worth it. One of the best mods I have done to date on this car.
February-2nd-2003, 07:33 PM
#32
Matty's Lead Scrumpet!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ok City
Posts: 3,143
This is what the Banana sounds like on the dyno:
*3.4MB*
http://www.redshark1.com/Banana_dyno120.WMV
*3.4MB*
http://www.redshark1.com/Banana_dyno120.WMV
February-11th-2003, 10:58 PM
#35
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 453
Guys, the cam issue was addressed early last year. I think it's been written up already. Do a search. Also, if anyone is interested, I'll still make someone a shorty header with a badass ceramic coating that will hook up to the stock EGR and use the factory O2 sensor in the factory location. I made a couple last year, but I've been off the boards for a while. If you want to see a few pics, go here: http://www.geocities.com/traveler12820/robsprotege.html
Got to 'ceramic header pics'.
Got to 'ceramic header pics'.
Last edited by Traveler; February-11th-2003 at 11:00 PM.
February-12th-2003, 07:08 AM
#36
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 229
I'm interested in the header.....how much? Serious inquiry!!!!! By the looks of the header it seems well designed. Does this header bolt to the stock primary cat? Or does it bypass the cat? It doesn't matter too me.....loosing the primary cat is way better.
Last edited by IMPACT; February-12th-2003 at 07:10 AM.
February-12th-2003, 02:12 PM
#37
Use this to install stuff
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 1,069
It appears to bolt to the primary cat, so I don't think it illiminates it. He gained around 6hp and 8lb/ft of torque and some impressive gas mileage gains with it though. Mate this with a much better downpipe and the exhaust would be pretty decent despite its two cats...
February-12th-2003, 11:02 PM
#38
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 453
I actually have a better downpipe. By the way, if anyone wants the flanges to make your own custom down pipe and cat forward (anymuffler shop can make it for you, but they WILL NOT make a flange or tell you where to get one) then I can get them for $20 plus postage. 3/8" thick with a 2.1 inch opening that works well with 2.25" pipe. Then you use a die grinder in the cat opening to enlarge it from the stock 1.7 or so to 2.05-2.1. That's what I did to mine.
February-14th-2003, 10:11 AM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: miramichi, new brunswick, canada
Posts: 27
bosal header
i found the bosal header part# 111-252, my question here is did it fit direct, i see an extension pipe on the end also so i am wonder about modifications.
thanx
thanx
February-17th-2003, 08:15 AM
#40
Matty's Lead Scrumpet!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ok City
Posts: 3,143
To everyone who has asked:
The header for the 93-95 Probe/MX-6 4cyl bolts right to the head. No modifications are needed for the bolt holes there. The EGR cannot be used without making a small section of copper or other high temp tubing since the location of the EGR nipple on the header is completely wrong as is the angle. It does not appear that the threads are the same for the two anyway. We opted to cap it off and not use it.
The real problem comes under the car. The header should come in two different sections. There is a separate section that has the exhaust hanger on it. Rather than cutting the stock piece with the secondary catalytic converter, we cut the new piece between the flange and the hanger and extended it by welding a section of pipe in. The section needs to be extended by approximately 15.5 inches. If possible, you should create this piece while it is on the car so that the angles of the flanges mate up properly. This second section of pipe is where we determined that we would weld in the second EGR bung, which can be purchased at any muffler shop. I chose to mount it there instead of in the header itself for two reasons. The first is that mounting it there allows extra distance between the O2 sensors and decreases the chance and frequency of getting a CEL/MIL on the dash. The second reason is that I did not want to weld on the header section itself. This would cause corrosion issues on the nicely coated header and I wanted to make sure that it was on a piece that was more easily replaced. By mounting the second O2 sensor in this section, you are required to extend the wiring harness. Make sure that you use good connectors and route the wiring away from any hot exhaust pieces.
This mod is best done on a lift if you have one and you must be able to weld or have someone that will weld for you. Depending on where you live, some muffler shops will not touch a car that has removed the catalytic converters. This method for installation does remove BOTH of the cats. We are considering putting in a high flow cat at a later date.
Hopefully this helps you in your decision.
The real problem comes under the car. The header should come in two different sections. There is a separate section that has the exhaust hanger on it. Rather than cutting the stock piece with the secondary catalytic converter, we cut the new piece between the flange and the hanger and extended it by welding a section of pipe in. The section needs to be extended by approximately 15.5 inches. If possible, you should create this piece while it is on the car so that the angles of the flanges mate up properly. This second section of pipe is where we determined that we would weld in the second EGR bung, which can be purchased at any muffler shop. I chose to mount it there instead of in the header itself for two reasons. The first is that mounting it there allows extra distance between the O2 sensors and decreases the chance and frequency of getting a CEL/MIL on the dash. The second reason is that I did not want to weld on the header section itself. This would cause corrosion issues on the nicely coated header and I wanted to make sure that it was on a piece that was more easily replaced. By mounting the second O2 sensor in this section, you are required to extend the wiring harness. Make sure that you use good connectors and route the wiring away from any hot exhaust pieces.
This mod is best done on a lift if you have one and you must be able to weld or have someone that will weld for you. Depending on where you live, some muffler shops will not touch a car that has removed the catalytic converters. This method for installation does remove BOTH of the cats. We are considering putting in a high flow cat at a later date.
Hopefully this helps you in your decision.
February-19th-2003, 06:29 PM
#44
Matty's Lead Scrumpet!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ok City
Posts: 3,143
Aside from the long tube header and lack of cats, the exhaust is the stock piece with a Magnaflow muffler (2 1/4" straight through but not canister) welded in place of the stock muffler. It has a nice low note and isn't buzzy at all. At idle and cruise it is nice and quiet but comes alive under full throttle.
The price was free since we had it in our garage from another exhaust we had. It was too small for the Turbo Focus.
The price was free since we had it in our garage from another exhaust we had. It was too small for the Turbo Focus.
