1st Gen Protege/323/GLC General/Maintenance Discussion for 1990-1994 Models (BG Chassis) and 1981-1989 GLC/323 Models (BD and BF chassis)

Leaky Valve Cover....

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Old March-9th-2004, 10:55 AM
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Leaky Valve Cover....

Has anyone had a problem with their valve cover not sealing right in the front? I have changed the gasket and everything, but it still leaks oil out the front of it. I don't know what else I can do except maybe buy a new valve cover and try that.
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Old March-10th-2004, 11:13 PM
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On my '92 DOHC Protege, the o-ring for the distributor was leaking. If your leak is in that area, it could be it.

IIRC it was an easy job -- mark distributor, pull out replace distributor at the mark and done. Cannot remember if the valve cover needs to be off first, though.

JQ
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Old March-11th-2004, 05:41 PM
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mine leaked untill i got new valve cover bolts.on the dohc the valve cover bolts can only be used once. thats why, when you put them back in and tourqe them to spec, they snap or strip.
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Old June-2nd-2004, 03:07 PM
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I've got a leaking valve cover gasket on my 1995 protege LX.

How hard is it to DIY?

With the valve cover gasket kit, does it come with the spark plug rings & new valve cover bolts?

What do you use to clean off the old gasket?

Is there anything else you need other than the new gaskets (i.e. sealer)?

What do you torque the new bolts to?
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Old June-2nd-2004, 08:10 PM
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Originally posted by spooki
mine leaked untill i got new valve cover bolts.on the dohc the valve cover bolts can only be used once. thats why, when you put them back in and tourqe them to spec, they snap or strip.
Responding to an old post here... this is news to me and it's not mentioned in the factory shop manual. Most likely, the bolts are being overtightened. The spec is for 43-78 *inch*- pounds. Not tight enough to snap or strip anything. That's less than 5 ft-lbs of torque.
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Old June-4th-2004, 12:45 AM
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Originally posted by D-Man
I've got a leaking valve cover gasket on my 1995 protege LX.

How hard is it to DIY?
Comically easy. If you can change a tire then you can probably R&R the valve cover gasket.
With the valve cover gasket kit, does it come with the spark plug rings & new valve cover bolts?
I doubt it on the former, definately not on the latter.
What do you use to clean off the old gasket?
Razor blade works well.
Is there anything else you need other than the new gaskets (i.e. sealer)?
No, all you need is gaskets.
What do you torque the new bolts to?
Same as the original spec, basically hand tight with a 1/4" drive ratchet.


As for old vs. new valve cover bolts, that's just silly. Those bolts are under no particular strain, all they have to do is put slight pressure on the valve cover gasket. What spooki is undoubtedly referring to is cylinder head bolts, which stretch as they are torqued and so must be replaced every time. This is so because the torque spec is usually around 45 ft-lbs, which in turn is necessary because those head bolts are all that is holding the combustion chamber sealed. Basically, all of the power in the engine is fighting to separate the block from the cylinder head. Hence the need for beefy bolts.
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Old June-4th-2004, 03:38 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll talk to the dealer about the spark plug rings and valve cover bolts coming with the valve cover gasket kit.

I'll let you all know how I make out...
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Old June-5th-2004, 10:02 AM
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http://miata.net/garage/valvecover/index.html

miata is a little different but the basics are the same. esp notice the 3 places for sealant and the bolt tightening sequence and you'll have a leak-free gasket.
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Old June-17th-2004, 07:32 PM
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yeah you should tighten them in a cerain pattern just like the bolts on your wheels. like in a star sort of pattern, so one side isn't tighter than the other-even when theyre tightened to the right foot pounds.
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