Disk Brakes?....
Disk Brakes?....
Make it bounce!! (BOING!)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 348
From: Northern Virginia
You can greatly improve the brakes on the DX by upgrading to slotted/crossdrilled rotors, performance pads, brake lines, and a good racing fluid. I've done these mods and have greatly improved not only feel, but have taken car of problems with fade etc...so that repeated stopping is no longer a problem. After all, 90% of all braking is done with the fronts. Better tires will also influence your stopping ability.
Make it bounce!! (BOING!)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 348
From: Northern Virginia
In my experience, the cross-drilled rotors do make a big difference. I think when it's time to replace the rotors again, a slotted rotor will be a better choice. I won't be sacrificing as much surface area as the cross drilling. I had many problems with the stock vented rotors warping mainly because they were easily over-worked (hardly 9 in in diameter!!). The crossdrilled rotors helped to eliminate the heat and gas build-up which is partially responsible for brake fade. Perhaps in your LX the cross drilling yeilded no results, but that may be due to the fact your brakes are 10.1 inches in diameter and can better dissipate heat. I recommend that anyone with a DX go cross-drilled or better yet slotted.
Make it bounce!! (BOING!)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 348
From: Northern Virginia
HAHA...You lost me Jesse...anytime you remove the contact area (each chamfered hole) between the pad and the rotor, you are reducing surface area. Explain how surface area is increased when you remove contact area?
Everything was done at the same time. I did just replace the calipers, pads and used ATE Blue Racing fluid last week when I did my 9 month brake job.
Everything was done at the same time. I did just replace the calipers, pads and used ATE Blue Racing fluid last week when I did my 9 month brake job.
The Horns of Jericho
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 320
From: Southern Californ-I-A (909)
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
Youre not increasing the pad to rotor contact area, you are increasing the physical surface area of the rotor, and hence, it will cool better. This is the reasoning behind cross-drilling rotors. The ideas behind slotting are just to let plasma-hot gases escape from under the pad. The thing about slotting is that is becoming more and more of an appearance mod. Look at an old racing slotted rotor. It simply has one slot, running across the rotor, just missing the inner portion of the circle.....a chord from geometry. Thats all you need
Increasing the area of pad contact to rotor will NOT increase stopping power. Kind of like wearing snow shoes....its a pressure per area thing, and adding area doesnt improve pressure, in fact the opposite is true.
Youre not increasing the pad to rotor contact area, you are increasing the physical surface area of the rotor, and hence, it will cool better. This is the reasoning behind cross-drilling rotors. The ideas behind slotting are just to let plasma-hot gases escape from under the pad. The thing about slotting is that is becoming more and more of an appearance mod. Look at an old racing slotted rotor. It simply has one slot, running across the rotor, just missing the inner portion of the circle.....a chord from geometry. Thats all you need
Increasing the area of pad contact to rotor will NOT increase stopping power. Kind of like wearing snow shoes....its a pressure per area thing, and adding area doesnt improve pressure, in fact the opposite is true.
I've known of big K-# blazers that would just slide on top of mud right off the road and on to the side of the mountain. Then when those guys are stuck, these jeeps and trucks with skinny tires will be going up the mountain past them, or they'll stop to pull them back up on to the road.
heh
Just an example of what Jesse was talking about how larger area decreases pressure.
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