demoninvictus

Ok, we're going to play, NAME THAT NOISE!! ok, well, i had some nasty clicking in my front axles and had them both replaced less than 3 months ago. the infernal noise returns, however, it's a different noise than before. before, i would take a turn from a stop, take a turn real fast, or back out of a parking spot and i would hear a distinctive clicking sound. i had my mechanic take a look at it and basically called for a total axle replacement on both sides. paid the 600 some odd bucks for the axle, 3 belts, and waterpump replacement and called it a day. now, i had about 2 full wet burnouts i can recollect, but either than that, i really haven't pounded out on the car on burnouts to the point where the axles should be broken. we've been running fine with the exception of my front calipers failing on me, eating a set of pads in 3 months, however, now i have a clicking sound in the front of my car. and instead of being turning specific, i get it at speeds under 25mph, either when braking or turning, and sometimes even when accelerating and turning. i have no idea what this could be, and with just a glance at the axles, not actually putting on the lift, my mechanic says they looked intact. it's going to go in sometime next week, i'm just wondering what this freakin noise could be.
thanks guys
peace

demoninvictus

does anybody know what this could be that could cause axles to wear out this fast, or could it be struts, springs, calipers or just some loose bolts?
peace

Identity_X

What kind of axles did you get? Regardless they shouldn't wear out that fast. I get just one click when accelerating or breaking. Usually the first rotation of the tire when I pull out of the garage in the morning. I check if my cv-joint needs replacing by doing a full 360 turn slowly with my head out the window . If there is no clicking then it's probably something else other than the cv axle. Give it a try!

UCSBgeek

hehe I'm getting some clicking now too, on my passenger axle. There was grease on the cv joint closest to the transmission, I don't know that that is supposed to be there.

aZnRicer

looks like thats the pro's weakness. axles. my transaxle has been loose at the cv joint ever since i bought it. clicks every time i slow down or accelerate after coasting. not quite embarassing since the exhaust drowns the sound. its been 3 months now.
chastan, that grease is supposed to be there. dont wipe it off whatever you do. in fact, you should regrease it every once in a while. i took my car through a touchless car wash a few times with the undercarriage wash and it wiped it right out. then the joints would squeak at low speeds. so...yea.

demoninvictus

going based off of what identity said, i used some ingenuity at slow cruising speeds, down shifting on my automatic, and applying the e-brake, i've narrowed the noise down to the front passenger side of the car and realized that the noise is generated using the brake pedal and coming to a stop, starting from a stop from where my foot has been on the brake pedal, or any depression of the brake pedal while going around a bend in the road or just slowing down, the noise will ONLY occur when the brakes are being depressed, or after the brakes are being depressed. this whole situation sucks my ***, my mechanic installed new front brakes, calipers, and resurfaced the new rotors, and i'm having some sort of clicking noise coming from the front right caliper. i don't know who to call out on this one, my basic pet peeve is i take it to my mechanic to get the work done RIGHT the first time, instead of ****** something up and having to pay for it a SECOND time. it'd help that i read the manuals and get the correct tools to work on my car, but i live at home, in an apartment with my mom until i get through college, so i don't have the money, nor the place to store tools. ah well, i love the car, but this protege is the biggest piece of **** i could have asked for. it drove fine off the lot, tested fine, every piece of work that should have been done before 80,000 miles had been done, and now, 33,000 miles later, and over $5,000 dollars later, this car STILL has problems. i have to hold on to her for another year and then i'm getting rid of this junker! i don't know what you guys have experienced, but this hunk of crap has cost me more in repairs than what i paid for it. eh, i'll still keep dumping money into it, sell it to some other sap a year or so from now and i'll move on to yet another car.
peace

UCSBgeek

The only tools I've ever really needed are metric wrenches, and a pair of pliers (to squeeze the caliper open to put in new pads) . You'll need a 14mm wrench for the caliper bolts. I redid all my brakes for under $200 (that includes front race brake pads, front slotted & drilled brembo rotors, and rear drum shoes.) Oh yeah, I live in a small studio apartment.

It sounds like you have a sticking caliper...a reman. one is about $60 from pep boys... and I'm sure you can get one for cheaper.

Anyways, I checked my clicking, and it was coming from the transmission itself....I already know I have a chipped gear, so if it's related, maybe... the thing's gonna go soon anyway . Oh and I realize I've got a bit of a rocker arm noise or something, but that's most likely from being taken past redline.

aznricer, yeah, I left the grease on, the way it was on there didn't look like it was a leak pattern or anything. The undercar wash hasn't taken it off yet, though .

UCSBgeek

Here's what I was talking about on AIM last night with the brake fluid resevoir. If your calipers keep going bad, and your mechanic just wants to keep replacing them, he should check out the rest of the brake system first.




See how there is a clear space between the two chambers? Make sure it's not leaking into there. Also, check the brake lines (you'll have to take off the wheels), and all the other parts of the system for any leaks or problems.