replaced my axles today
#16
After doing the clutch job- I thought of another potential source for the mystery noise(s). The subframe mounts to the chassis at four points (two bolts up front and two studs/nuts out back). All four locations have rubber bushings and I wonder if once worn, these are allowing the subframe to rock when the engine is loaded up. After all this is where the fore and aft motor mounts are bolted down, and it would stand to reason that even though the mounts were replaced the frame would still rock. Specifically the front two bolts are suspect as they're sleeved to keep from crushing the bushings. Just a thought. - rob
#17
Since I will be doing my clutch (again) soon. I was thinking about replacing the axles, since they are still the originals but no problems with them so far.
I called up the local mazda dealer here to get the price on new Mazda axles for my GT.
He said:
$752.00 + tax Cdn Each
What the? Over $1500 not even installed
If I am going to spend that kind of money on axles, they had better be stronger/lighter BPT performance axles. Any suggestions?
Rick
I called up the local mazda dealer here to get the price on new Mazda axles for my GT.
He said:
$752.00 + tax Cdn Each
What the? Over $1500 not even installed
If I am going to spend that kind of money on axles, they had better be stronger/lighter BPT performance axles. Any suggestions?
Rick
#18
that sounds just like the same deal with the 626 units. I went with a remanufactured set for -$100 US each and a lifetime warranty. They've got about 20k on them w/o any problems. Even if you had to buy a reman. set every ten years (based on your current set's lifespan) you or the car would probably be dead by the time spent as much as what the OE set costs. -rob
#19
Rob - When I was changing my axles I tried to find the frame mounts, but couldn't. I had already thought about them and figured the car had them *somewhere*. I remember an old Pontiac I owned once had a collapsed rear driver's frame mount. It was so bad it made the car lean. It was easy to find, but I was told it'd take an act of God to replace it. I just left it be.
So, where exactly are they on the Pro? Have you scoped them out yet?
So, where exactly are they on the Pro? Have you scoped them out yet?
#20
I called this thing a subframe, but not sure what it really is called. It's the piece that runs from the front, under the transmission/diff and then mounts just right where the driver's side foot well starts. It's basically a metal rod bent in a U with some sheet metal covering both ends, and then open in the middle to allow some access to the tranny. The front and rear (of the car) engine mounts bolt through the sheet metal on this piece. On the rear mounts there's studs on the chassis that run through the frame. Bushings are sandwiched on both sides with the mounting nuts. On the front, bolts run through to the chassis, sandwiching bushings on both sides. My rear bushings were shot (actually parts of them were missing in the rear), but up front the bolts have a spacer portion that looks as though it's designed to prevent over-torqueing the frame on the bushings. If your bushings were to degrade/wear then you'd inevitably have some excessive tolerance up there. That might mean that the frame could move while the engine load is changing- while the rear might be tight. So the frame might have sort of spring board action- and perhaps that could cause the creaking noise. Boy, talk about speculating.
#21
Ok, so you're talking about the crossmember. I thought you meant something different. I was thinking about *frame bushings*, rubber mounts that are sandwiched in between the the frame of the car and the chassis. In essence, these are frame bushings, but I was looking for a pair up front like behind the wheel wells, and maybe a pair in the back too. I see what you're saying though. I've haven't had the crossmember off yet, so I haven't really looked at it in detail. It makes sense that there's some sort of rubber bushings seperating the crossmember and the front/rear lower motor mounts. Come to think of it I have felt a *popping* sometimes in the floorboard with my feet. You may be on to something here Rob, thanks!
#22
Originally posted by rkives
Since I will be doing my clutch (again) soon. I was thinking about replacing the axles, since they are still the originals but no problems with them so far.
I called up the local mazda dealer here to get the price on new Mazda axles for my GT.
He said:
$752.00 + tax Cdn Each
What the? Over $1500 not even installed
If I am going to spend that kind of money on axles, they had better be stronger/lighter BPT performance axles. Any suggestions?
Rick
Since I will be doing my clutch (again) soon. I was thinking about replacing the axles, since they are still the originals but no problems with them so far.
I called up the local mazda dealer here to get the price on new Mazda axles for my GT.
He said:
$752.00 + tax Cdn Each
What the? Over $1500 not even installed
If I am going to spend that kind of money on axles, they had better be stronger/lighter BPT performance axles. Any suggestions?
Rick
#23
Originally posted by mike_moss
I have a similar problem and i'm just diggin' for solutions and such...have you followed up on this yet?
I have a similar problem and i'm just diggin' for solutions and such...have you followed up on this yet?
YEAH, MY CREAKING NOISE IS GONE !!!!!
It was one of the lower two motor mounts on the crossmember, though I'm not exactly sure which one since I replaced them both at the same time. The front one was very fossilized, so I suspect that one. The rear one was still somewhat pliable. I never did see the rubber bushings the Rob referred to earlier, but alas it didn't matter - I'm "creak" and pop free and that's all that matters.
Hey Felix - call me crazy but the reman looks a little beefier than the oem shaft.
Last edited by beachnut; April-12th-2003 at 12:58 PM.
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