found an rx7 for sale... should i get it?
November-30th-2001, 02:17 PM
#1
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found an rx7 for sale... should i get it?
hey everyone.... I came across these two 90' Rx7's for sale at a local mazda dealership here in central PA.
both have gtu rotary engines w/ a little less than 50,000 miles on them.
They have a black one w/ an auto tranny, air, and 49,600 miles on it. It's going for $3990
The second one is red w/ a 5 spd tranny, air, and 46,700 miles on it. It's going for $2995
Now I don't think imma be running into cars like this too often therefore I decided to take a look at them. They look pretty good considering the year.
I'm wondering if it would be worth tuning....
both have gtu rotary engines w/ a little less than 50,000 miles on them.
They have a black one w/ an auto tranny, air, and 49,600 miles on it. It's going for $3990
The second one is red w/ a 5 spd tranny, air, and 46,700 miles on it. It's going for $2995
Now I don't think imma be running into cars like this too often therefore I decided to take a look at them. They look pretty good considering the year.
I'm wondering if it would be worth tuning....
November-30th-2001, 04:33 PM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA. 95110
Posts: 632
Well, I love the rotary to death.
It is my true sports car. I have three of the ones you were looking at, except two are turbo and one is n/a.
The GTU is a 90 only represents the base model, the one worth looking for is the GTUs, as it has a higher final drive gear ratio.
Don't get the automatic, real bad idea?
If you want advice and cost of setting up this vehicle, let me know? I distribute for Racing Beat, and highly endorse their products on the second gen.
My other forum is rx7club.com/vforums Please register and check me out in the suspension/tire/wheel/brake section, as well as the West section.'
As long as there is no rust on the vehicle, I would jump on the red one. Pick it up for like $2500.00, that should be doable.
Full exhaust, no cats, and mild street port will take you to 200hp at the shaft, no problems. All motor 1.3L, "The only replacement for displacement = ROTARY".
I have a variety of suspension setups for it, but fully modded w/o porting will run you less than $2000.00, so for a $4500.00 car total your **** will be sweet as hell. Have a shop capable of compression testing a rotary, do the compression test on it. Make sure it is even at all corners of the rotors.
I'm installing a full RB exhaust system on a red '90 tommorrow. Let me know if you want pics. Oh you can put a 255/40 in the back of that fender as well, some good meat. I have 18,9.5's in the rear of one of mine.
Good luck, hope to run into you at the rex forum,
Rishie, ARD T2/MP5
It is my true sports car. I have three of the ones you were looking at, except two are turbo and one is n/a.
The GTU is a 90 only represents the base model, the one worth looking for is the GTUs, as it has a higher final drive gear ratio.
Don't get the automatic, real bad idea?
If you want advice and cost of setting up this vehicle, let me know? I distribute for Racing Beat, and highly endorse their products on the second gen.
My other forum is rx7club.com/vforums Please register and check me out in the suspension/tire/wheel/brake section, as well as the West section.'
As long as there is no rust on the vehicle, I would jump on the red one. Pick it up for like $2500.00, that should be doable.
Full exhaust, no cats, and mild street port will take you to 200hp at the shaft, no problems. All motor 1.3L, "The only replacement for displacement = ROTARY".
I have a variety of suspension setups for it, but fully modded w/o porting will run you less than $2000.00, so for a $4500.00 car total your **** will be sweet as hell. Have a shop capable of compression testing a rotary, do the compression test on it. Make sure it is even at all corners of the rotors.
I'm installing a full RB exhaust system on a red '90 tommorrow. Let me know if you want pics. Oh you can put a 255/40 in the back of that fender as well, some good meat. I have 18,9.5's in the rear of one of mine.
Good luck, hope to run into you at the rex forum,
Rishie, ARD T2/MP5
November-30th-2001, 08:44 PM
#3
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???
So you say I should pay like around $2500?? And after the mods and all it doesn't seem that bad considering the power
How do I make sure the engine is in good shape??? The 5spd only has around 46thousand miles
Should the mazda people at the place make sure its okay cuz they said that they are certified dealers.
I'm going to be test driving it on monday... what should I look for?
How do I make sure the engine is in good shape??? The 5spd only has around 46thousand miles
Should the mazda people at the place make sure its okay cuz they said that they are certified dealers.
I'm going to be test driving it on monday... what should I look for?
December-1st-2001, 03:54 PM
#4
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Location: Silicon Valley, CA. 95110
Posts: 632
#1) Check the compression, uses a different type of compression tester. SO if it's at Mazda, they should have it.
#2) Check for a nice solid cold start, and then once you've driven it and its warm, shut it off. Wait a few minutes and try the hot start. As long as it doesn't flood and has a good hot start, the compression could be from good to decent.
#3) Check for a nice solid idle, not bouncing once warm.
#4) Check the automatic seatbelts for proper operation, there is a factory recall on them so the dealer is obligated to take care of it no matter what.
#5) Make sure it shifts into all gears well, no grinding of the synchros. Tranny should be great w/ only 46/k.
#6) You really want to make sure the motor is good. Those rotaries that aren't driven constantly or hard tend to get carbon buildup which chips away at the APEX seals. Even if the motor isn't good, you're still getting a good deal, because the odometer reads so low.
I would expect to spend about $3000.00 on a motor installed with the port job, within the next year or so. Better to expect the worst than the best. But if all those things check out, it should run for a good year or two without any motor failure. I've driven rotaries to the death and they do pretty good until complete failure occurs. That's with the n/a's of course.
Can't go wrong w/a RX,
Rishie
#2) Check for a nice solid cold start, and then once you've driven it and its warm, shut it off. Wait a few minutes and try the hot start. As long as it doesn't flood and has a good hot start, the compression could be from good to decent.
#3) Check for a nice solid idle, not bouncing once warm.
#4) Check the automatic seatbelts for proper operation, there is a factory recall on them so the dealer is obligated to take care of it no matter what.
#5) Make sure it shifts into all gears well, no grinding of the synchros. Tranny should be great w/ only 46/k.
#6) You really want to make sure the motor is good. Those rotaries that aren't driven constantly or hard tend to get carbon buildup which chips away at the APEX seals. Even if the motor isn't good, you're still getting a good deal, because the odometer reads so low.
I would expect to spend about $3000.00 on a motor installed with the port job, within the next year or so. Better to expect the worst than the best. But if all those things check out, it should run for a good year or two without any motor failure. I've driven rotaries to the death and they do pretty good until complete failure occurs. That's with the n/a's of course.
Can't go wrong w/a RX,
Rishie
December-1st-2001, 04:31 PM
#5
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hey can you show me some pics of your car and your exhaust so I can have and idea of how the car is gonna look like all done up.
how does the suspension do? do you really need to replace it? I wondering cuz it was pretty low to the ground already!!
how about some of your interior shots as well?? IT WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL
THANX
how does the suspension do? do you really need to replace it? I wondering cuz it was pretty low to the ground already!!
how about some of your interior shots as well?? IT WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL
THANX
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