skyhawk174

I've been running synthetic 5W30 in my vehicles for years now and I love it. The best test is in winter. When it is really cold, say like -20°C, take both of your oil brands and simply pour a little from each bottle. You will see why it is better to use synthetic. Of course there is alot of other stuff that is good but I like that feature the best. I used to use Esso Synthetic but last year I switched over to Mobil 1. I also had that awful filter mentioned earlie and I will never go back to that. Thank goodness for the info here.

pingdum

Just busting on ya' homie. I personally really dig washer LED's and plan on getting some as soon as my baby truly belongs to me. I can't stand the idea of putting money into something that is still owned by Mazda Credit. Every penny that I can put into paying "The 5" off is one penny closer to total mod freedom.

Cavebone

For the past 8 years I have used nothing but synthetic oil in my cars, now with my protege its no different, synthetic oil just holds up better and longer, and I would really recommend using either a K&N oil filter or a Mobil 1 oil filter. I have used both Mobil 1 synthetic oil and Castrol syntec, both have been great, but I think that synthetic is the only way to go.

5SpeedP5

I truely stand by synthetic oil! I change every 3-5k miles on both my cars and put Havelon Synthetic in everytime (ive found it to be just as good as mobile1, just cheaper)... as does everyone in my family, so i feel its definately worth the extra $$. Also once i converted my SE-R over i could tell a little performance increase!

camss69

I run synthetic in everything. Red Line in the bike and Mobil 1 in the TA. I've been pretty happy with the Purolator (sp?) filters, I haven't gone to the extreme of sending my oil into a lab but no problems so far. The bike gets beaten constantly, we're talking 14,000 RPM clutchless shifts, it gets ridden hard. Red Line hasn't let me down yet. I do my own valve adjustments and have seen zero wear on the cams. My other bike was running part syn and part dino and the cams were very worn. This bike has been on syn it's whole life except the breakin. I switched my TA over to syn at 9k miles and it will never see dino again. There really is no comparison. Go to Red Line's page and read some testimonials, it's pretty impressive. Good oil is cheaper than broken parts, every time. I'm also not going to pay much attention to Mazda's oil change interval. The first one for my P5 will be at 600 miles, just like my bike. Then every 3-4k after that. I feel redline is the best but also the most $$. The TA takes 5.5 quarts at $7-8.00 a quart so it gets Mobil one at half the price. The bike I feel needs the best I can find so it gets Red Line but it only takes 3.5 quarts. The TA also gets babied, as will the P5. My OPINION from my experience with my toys.

Nick

After reading through that web page it was similar to one I found a couple years ago. It found Red line to be the best, and I see some people have changed to Red Line on that page. Also they seem to like the Purolators, which I've been using for a while so that makes me think I still have made the best choices for my cars. I may put Red Line in the TA next time. The P5 still is gonna get M1.

GNO

If you pull the vavle cover off of two cars with 50,000+ miles one that's used synthetic compared to one that hasn't, you would notice a big difference. If you don't want to pull the valve cover, take a peak inside with just the oil cap off.

On the cars I've used synthetic on, the valve components have little to no build-up on them. Any car that I've run dino on, would a brown gummy residue built up on the vavle components. You think the crank and what not would have a similar build up? Think that build up would rob some power? I do, that's one of the many reasons I switch to synthetic early in the vehicles life.

1st MP3 in NH

What does everyone think of Valvoline synthetic oil. It was the only kind I could find with a 20W-50 that was recommended for my turbo. Also how bad are fram filters do I need to get mine off of the car ASAP or just change it and the oil in 2500 miles?

camss69

Valvoline is pretty good stuff, I used to run it in my 69 camaro. The only one I stay away from at all costs is Pennzoil. I found some kendall once so I bought it and ran it, then I went and looked up some comparison lab test and found it to be not as good. So I went back to the valvoline. Valvoline was the only oil I could find in strait 40w. Fram's are not very good filters, I would change it out on your next change unless it's easy for you to do. Then I would change it soon. I perfer the purolators, there are some other recomendations on this thread.

Nick

Sil_Pro5

Okay guys, I am about to start a flame war im sure but, that is NOT my intention with this. But, here it goes.....

For one, everyone needs to get past the marketing that we are deluged with daily by the oil companies. For those of you who say (and think, as I used to) that your synthetic brand oil is "awesome", I ask this: Have you EVER had your oil analysed? If not, then you dont know for sure whether or not the oil youre running actually IS a great oil for your engine.

Point in fact: Mobil 1 Xw-30 viscosity oils are notorious amongst us lube heads (non-official title that describes those of us who are motor oil enthusiasts), for breaking down VERY quickly to a 20 viscosity level (or a 20wt. for those of you that think oils are described by "weights") oil in just 3,000 short miles! Of course this is not always true as all engines are different but, this does occur in allot of 4-cyl engines. You can read some analysis at http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/....php?ubb=forum;f=3

However, w/ that said, Mobil1 0w-40 IS a great oil to use in our engines (or any engine requiring an Xw-30 type oil.) as it stands up the best to breakdown and has been used w/ great success in the rest of the world for many years now. And it is NOT too thin to run either!! Its only a 0 level viscosity at low temperatures in winter. If its a 100 degrees outside and you start your engine, it will not be a 0 level viscosity-try a 40 level.

It achieves this by chains of polymers uncoiling at a higher temperature and thus, the film strength will not be any thinner than that of a 40wt. oil. These polymers do not "thicken" the oil to a 40w, they merely prevent the film strength from being any other than a 40w oil. IMHO, the only Mobil 1 that I would use is the 0w-40, but thats just me.

Now, for the great "Castrol Syntec" debate on "Group III" base oils. If you do your research, you will find that many of these Group III (& even Group II+) have stats that are equal to, or slightly less than their Group IV counterparts (Group IV base oils are PAO's or Poly Alpha Olefin's). What sets the two apart more is their difference in pour points. PAO based oils (theyre usually combined w/ an ester also.) generally do not need many pour point depressants to reach a low pour point, whereas, Group III oils do. I agree w/ most of you that these oils should not be called "synthetic" but, "HC (HydroCracked) Synthetic" and sold for a much lower price.

Whats funny though is that many of us (myself including at one time) bash Castrol for using this Group III base in its Syntec oils, but extoll the virtues of Valvoline and other brands, while not realising (because of marketing) that their oils too, are now Group III also!!! THe only over the counter Synthetic that a true synthetic is Mobil 1 and how much of a "true" synthetic it is no one knows for sure. If someone would pay the $200+ needed for a sample to be tested by gas chromatography or spectroanalysis, then we would know for sure!

I am currently testing (and in the future) 3 synthetic oils. Amsoil 10w-30; AGIP "Extra HTS" 5w-40; & Motul 300V 5w-40. All 3 brands have a good reputation for quality and durability but again, the life of the oils depend on your engine, driving style, etc...

To know when to change to change it for sure, one should have an oil analysis performed. They cost usually no more than $25-shipped. But in the end, research for yourself (if you care to) to find out more info, dont just take it from me. IF you do, then your doing the same as before when listening to the oil co's marketing. Hey, we're all guilty of doing that at one time or another!

Cheers,

Chris J.

MDV Synthetics

The guy from Mazda is an idiot, to put it bluntly. The 0W-40 is only "thin" during the cold starts and is thicker at operating temperature than 5W-30. You want the thinner oil for startup and the thicker one for normal operating temps. The comment about 0W-40 being too thin for year round running is BS. I'd be happy to go into more detail as to why if people are interested.

I use Amsoil 5W-30 in my car that see lot's of track time (roadcourse). It's been run for 8K miles under these conditions and as a daily driver. I also used Mobil 1 5W-30 under similar conditions. I had both samples analyzed by an independent lab not affiliated with Amsoil. Long story short, Mobil 1 is never going in anything I own, even the 0W-40, and the Amsoil proved itself to me so I'm a dealer now.

This is how my car is driven: http://www.mdvsynthetics.com/videos

BTW, the link Sil_Pro5 posted is an excellent one. A lot of the people who post there are chemical engineers and lubrication specialists. There's enough knowledge there to make your head spin.

5SpeedP5

hmm intresting, there is a guy down the street that sells amsoil, i wouldnt mind hearing more about it, sounds intresting

MDV Synthetics

Okay. Background on the company itself. They've been around for 30 years now, and were the first to introduce synthetic motor oil in passenger cars. It's not snake oil.

The beauty of synthetic oils in general is their resistance to viscosity change with temperature, allowing them to safely be used for all seasons. Changing oil for the season is outdated when talking about synthetics.

Viscosity grades are determined by seperate tests. The number preceding the W is tested in the cold crank simulator while the second number is kinematic viscosity at 100 degrees celsius. For the W designation, each grade has to prove how well it flows at progressively lower tempeartures. The second number is how "thick" the oil is at a normal operating temperature. There is a range that the lubricant must fall into, not a specific number, so all 30 wt. oils aren't created equal. The accepted range is 9.3-12.5 cSt. Mobil 1 oils fall near the "thinner" end of the range, and during use falls even further towards a 20 wt. oil. Interesting enough, Mobil 1 0W-30 is actually "thicker" at operating temperature than Mobil 1 5W-30 OR 10W-30. BTW, Amsoil oils tend to fall near the upper end of the range.

As to why did I say the 0W-40 isn't too "thin" to use, it's because the 0W designation only says the oil is capable of flowing at -35C vs. -25C for a 5W oil. Once warm, the oil is actually much "thicker" than a 30 wt. oil because of the "40" designation. Why would a "thicker" oil be bad for summer use?? Also, at 40C, the 0W-40 is still thicker than Mobil 1 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30.

This issue is actually much more complicated, I oversimplified it. There's a whole lot more to what makes an oil "good", but to post it all here would be very tedious for people who aren't that interested. I've put together lots of good articles that explain lubrication and viscosity etc... at http://www.mdvsynthetics.com/actionnewsarticles
Most of them aren't very technical and can help people understand more about the different properties of oil.

Also, with the discount for members here, I can probably ship it to people direct from Amsoil for less than most stores charge.