PJB TNS issues. External fix possible? - Page 2 - Mazda3Club.com : The Original Mazda3 Forum
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Old September-21st-2011, 06:47 PM   #16  
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The light switch is a switched 12V source on pin I on J-03 - black with a white stripe, so that should connect to 85 instead of connecting to the JP-03 pin AP.
Test that connection first, make sure it's a switched 12V source when the light switch is turned to the running lights position.
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Old September-21st-2011, 07:14 PM   #17  
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Sounds good. This is the last question I have before I attempt the fix. As it stands, when the TNS relay works (which becomes rarer every day), when I turn on my running lamps, my radio and and odometer display dim a little bit. I'm guessing that dimming will be gone with the external relay, correct?
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Old September-21st-2011, 07:50 PM   #18  
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Also, because I'm feeding the power back into the system, the wires should be soldered onto the burnt end of the fuse, not the side that was supplying or sending power through it before it was burnt, correct?
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Old September-22nd-2011, 07:01 AM   #19  
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I'm not sure about the dimming, when everything is working properly the backlight of the instrument cluster should dim to the 'night' level for the lack of a better term. The radio should do the same, this level is controlled with the brightness adjustment on the dash to the left side of the steering column.
As for the 'burnt end of the fuse' - if you plug the fuse in backwards, it will just attach to the 12V source that should be from the TNS relay anyway, and not power the lights. So when each fuse is installed in the proper orientation, they will power the appropriate lighting system. No damage from having one in backwards, but you may need to switch a few around to get them in the right position. It is highly likely that one side of all the fuses is the source of power, and the other is the load - so all should end up with the wire on the same side of the fuse (I.E. to the right).

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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Old September-22nd-2011, 07:11 AM   #20  
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Sounds good! I'm going to buy the diode and new fuses tomorrow and do it this weekend. I'll be sure to post the results!
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Old September-22nd-2011, 07:19 AM   #21  
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had a few minutes, so here's a diagram - hopefully I didn't make any contradictions
Attached Thumbnails
PJB TNS issues. External fix possible?-tns-relay-bypass.jpg  
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Old September-25th-2011, 09:40 PM   #22  
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You rock! It worked! I just had to make one change. It didn’t work with terminal 85 connected to a ground and 86 to the light switch. It looks like the factory switch is a grounded switch. The only way I was able to get a 12 volt reading with my voltmeter was connecting the positive lead to a 12v source and the other to the light switch wire. So instead of connecting a ground to terminal 85, I connected the light switch wire. I connected terminal 86 to a 12v constant.

I still used a diode from 85 to 86, striped side towards the 12v constant (86). Also, the dimming (night mode) works fine but I had to leave the light switch wire intact and just tap into it. When I cut that wire completely, my dimmer wasn’t functional. I made a new diagram for what I did. Let me know if the setup in the diagram looks off.

Thanks again for all of your help! I appreciate the time you put into it and will be forever grateful!

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Old September-26th-2011, 07:04 AM   #23  
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I am suprised the factory switch didn't match what was in the wiring diagram... then again, maybe I misread something.

In any case, glad to see it worked, and yes, the diagram looks fine. I'm happy to be a help.
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Old December-16th-2013, 03:41 PM   #24  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josephc04 View Post
You rock! It worked! I just had to make one change. It didnít work with terminal 85 connected to a ground and 86 to the light switch. It looks like the factory switch is a grounded switch. The only way I was able to get a 12 volt reading with my voltmeter was connecting the positive lead to a 12v source and the other to the light switch wire. So instead of connecting a ground to terminal 85, I connected the light switch wire. I connected terminal 86 to a 12v constant.

I still used a diode from 85 to 86, striped side towards the 12v constant (86). Also, the dimming (night mode) works fine but I had to leave the light switch wire intact and just tap into it. When I cut that wire completely, my dimmer wasnít functional. I made a new diagram for what I did. Let me know if the setup in the diagram looks off.

Thanks again for all of your help! I appreciate the time you put into it and will be forever grateful!

Hi,, Do you have any photo of the set-up you made? I have a problem with low beams lights. They continuously stays ON.
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Old December-17th-2013, 08:05 AM   #25  
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I have no photos, but I used a small "radio shack project box" type little plastic box with a circuit board & relay inside it just to keep it from bumping into things and strapped it to the wiring under the dash.
Did you use this type of fix? Or is the car otherwise stock and the lights are stuck on?
It's possible that the relay for the low beams went bad, though the bad part is that's on the control module in the car, not a replacable relay I don't think. You'd have to check near the battery, swap the relay for the lights with the horn for example. That would tell you if it's the relay or part of the control wiring.
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Old December-19th-2013, 05:34 PM   #26  
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I expect problems with PJB :/

https://www.mazda3club.com/showthrea...t=52540&page=2

Do you know which relay under hood is responsible for low beams?
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Old August-6th-2018, 04:39 AM   #27  
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Hi. I posted a lenghtly post as well as new thread on how to easily solve this issue with TNS that is becoming quite common and not easy to fix or expensive. But the post is avaiting admin/moderator approval. I would be glad if the solution would be publicaly available, so admins/mods can You please check this posts for approval?
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