x2lacrosse

Car = 2.3s

I've changed the oil (3) times now and I honestly think it takes me longer each time. What is the deal and why do they make it such a pain in the &#@

Enuff w/ my ranting. Everything is cake except for the stupid filter. I've now purchased (2) of the "special tools" and neither one will grip the thing unless I line the inside of the wrench w/ duct or electrical tape. The biggest problem I'm having is that the filter drain plug doesn't actually drain all of oil out; when I remove the filter housing, a whole bunch more oil comes out. Here lies my problem b/c this oil has now completely greased up the inside of my filter wrench; making my rig job useless. I then have to remove that tape and re-do it so I can re-install the filter housing. Does anyone have any advice on an easier method or if I'm doing something wrong??

Please, no replies telling me to take it to the dealer b/c that's not going to happen; not for an oil change. Any other useful advice is appreciated.

blakeo

Nothing useful here...just wanted to reassure you you're not losing your mind. It is getting harder and taking more time. Valvaline struggled today checking mine for the third time (15K miles), took them 45 minutes and I know those guys in my local shop are pretty good. (not true of all valvaline shops) The had trouble with 3 of the skid plate bolts...then the filter.

x2lacrosse

Good to know I'm not a complete moron; I just cannot believe that they made it this involving to change the oil on a car!! I understand that there are certain things that a dealer must and should do, but I do NOT believe an oil change is one of those things. That should be something the end-user should always have the right to do (if they so choose).
It takes me 20 minutes each to do the Protege and RSX and 1.5 hours to do the 3.
It's absolutely absurd.

x2lacrosse

No advice yet, so let me throw this out. For those that change their own, do you have to rig your wrench like I do?? If NO, where did u get yours?

Spidertaker23

I had a terrible time figuring this out ... until I read this guide and bought the suggested tools in the guide ... and now it still sux ... but at least I know how to do it properly.

http://robert.aitchison.org/tiki-pag...DIY+Oil+Change

Hope this makes your life easier.

x2lacrosse

Thanks 4 your attempt, but that is actually the same person that I got my tutorial and parts list from. Actually, your link is different from the site that I visited, but it's the same guy. Here's the site I visited:

http://www.aitchison.org/robert/Mazd...YOilChange.htm

Let me ask u this, did u buy the filter wrench from the link that he has posted? If so, does yours work w/o having to rig it like I do?

Spidertaker23

Yea I bought the tools from the exact websites that he suggested through his links ... and they worked perfectly.

x2lacrosse

Good lord, maybe I am a moron. So, no tape on the inside of the filter wrench 4 you? Is there a trick to it? Without the tape, the wrench just rotates around the filter housing as if it were a perfect circle. So, what r u doing that I'm not??

Spidertaker23

If you have a 2.3s and you bought the tools from the specified websites ... I honestly don't know what you would doing wrong. Does your car look like the pictures that are provided ... maybe take a picture of what the under part of you car looks like and/or the filter that you have.

x2lacrosse

Yep, I definitely have the the 3s and not the i. I don't know either b/c I bought my 2nd wrench using his link, but, I just re-read his tutorial and I mistakenly thought he said to tighen the filter housing to 30 lb/ft, not 30 nm. So, maybe it's too tight when I go to loosen it the next time around and the wrench is ineffective b/c of that. Oh well, I'll have to see next time and see what happens. Thanks 4 your input.

rsx type s

I do oil changes on them on a daily basis , I do not remove the allen key plug , just crack the cartridge free, with a regular band type filer wrench , unscrew cartridge until it starts to leak oil , let drip for a minute ,then remove, tilt and pour remainder in container . Clean out entirely with brake clean , then reinstall.

x2lacrosse

Ok, I'll give the band-type wrench a whirl, but what about when you re-apply the housing?? How to u properly torque it w/ a band-type (or do you)?

BTW, are u a fellow RSX owner? R U on CRSX?

rsx type s

Yes i just put it back on with the band wrench . What ever you do ,,,,do not use the 3 finger gear type , it will crack the housing . Mazda does have a complete set for all our models . It's a set of metal cup type that fits very snug and has 3/8 drive , for a ratchet. Oh and yes Mazda tech , owner of Rsx / s...on crsx as well.

:: Gusto ::

u know what i learned today.. mazda recommends not using FUll synthetic.. the actually prefer a reg oil.. or if u must a syn blend...


My dealer service guy, said he has to attend mazda training classes, & he said they covered that in tha last training..

that they dont want straight syn in thier engines... so loooks like im be changing from my Mobil 1 to something else... heh

x2lacrosse

Hmmm, wonder why that would be. That sucks b/c I just put in a fresh batch of synthetic.