should i do the brakes maintenance?
March-14th-2007, 10:49 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
should i do the brakes maintenance?
Hi,
I have a mazda 3 2006. First time I had problems with the squealing brakes, the dealer charged me 200$ to service all 4 brakes and calibers. Should I be doing them regularly? They want me to do the 48k maintenance package which includes the oil change, check the belts/hoses and brakes services. I declined because it was over 200$ again.
How often should we clean our calibers and maintain our brakes? I want to do it myself but I'm not really sure. Does anyone have the service manual for mazda 3?
Thanks for answerinG!
I have a mazda 3 2006. First time I had problems with the squealing brakes, the dealer charged me 200$ to service all 4 brakes and calibers. Should I be doing them regularly? They want me to do the 48k maintenance package which includes the oil change, check the belts/hoses and brakes services. I declined because it was over 200$ again.
How often should we clean our calibers and maintain our brakes? I want to do it myself but I'm not really sure. Does anyone have the service manual for mazda 3?
Thanks for answerinG!
March-14th-2007, 11:13 PM
#2
The man behind the mask
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
welcome to the forum. First things first
1. Brakes are very simple to do yourself BUT you need someone to show you the proper way to do them first. There are 1-2 small steps that if done incorrectly could cause you serious trouble when you try to stop.
2. Dealers are rip offs....I hate saying that but it's true. Our local quick lubes here (Express Oil) will do everything on the dealers 48k service (oil change, lubricate hinges/chasis, check belts, top off all fluids, check tires, inspect brakes) for $29.99 If you want the tires rotated and balanced at the same time it's an extra $29.99
Ask your dealer for a DETAILED list of everything done for their $200 service and then shop your local quick lubes for what hey provide in a regular oil change. If you're new to the shop and trust is an issue just tell them and ask to watch the procedure. Tell them you'd like to learn the ropes. Techs love feeling important and it also helps you when something major comes up that they know you.
1. Brakes are very simple to do yourself BUT you need someone to show you the proper way to do them first. There are 1-2 small steps that if done incorrectly could cause you serious trouble when you try to stop.
2. Dealers are rip offs....I hate saying that but it's true. Our local quick lubes here (Express Oil) will do everything on the dealers 48k service (oil change, lubricate hinges/chasis, check belts, top off all fluids, check tires, inspect brakes) for $29.99 If you want the tires rotated and balanced at the same time it's an extra $29.99
Ask your dealer for a DETAILED list of everything done for their $200 service and then shop your local quick lubes for what hey provide in a regular oil change. If you're new to the shop and trust is an issue just tell them and ask to watch the procedure. Tell them you'd like to learn the ropes. Techs love feeling important and it also helps you when something major comes up that they know you.
March-14th-2007, 11:17 PM
#3
Spam Czar!!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
Posts: 2,315
You shouldn't need to service your brakes any more than every 30,000 miles or so. If your brakes don't last that long, then you're doing some pretty hardcore driving there!! But when it does come time to service them, it's up to you whether you wanna let the stealership do it or not. If you don't know anything about brakes and don't feel comfortable doing it then just suck it up and pay up. $200 isn't worth losing your life over you know? On the other hand if you're a pretty decent mechanic or willing to learn (like myself) then you can probably dig around the forums and other websites and find pretty detailed instructions on how to go about checking, replacing, and cleaning your brakes.
Honestly I would probably try to figure it out yourself, or at least try to buddy up with someone that can show you how. The only reason I say this is because dealerships will tear you appart on everything they do. $200 at a dealership can sometimes be done for $30 - $50 by yourself.
Honestly I would probably try to figure it out yourself, or at least try to buddy up with someone that can show you how. The only reason I say this is because dealerships will tear you appart on everything they do. $200 at a dealership can sometimes be done for $30 - $50 by yourself.
Last edited by KrayzieFox; March-14th-2007 at 11:19 PM.
March-15th-2007, 04:45 AM
#4
TStar
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 229
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
If you're new to the shop and trust is an issue just tell them and ask to watch the procedure. Tell them you'd like to learn the ropes. Techs love feeling important and it also helps you when something major comes up that they know you.
March-16th-2007, 02:16 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
I guess so eh. I took some mech course when i was in highschool, (years ago) and I maintain my brakes back then . but now i 'm kinda worried on how to do it on the the mazda 3 . anyone know where i can get a detail instruction with pics on how to clean the calibers?
How about brake dust, do you guys get alot of those ? That's like the #1 cause for squealing sound
How about brake dust, do you guys get alot of those ? That's like the #1 cause for squealing sound
March-16th-2007, 06:40 AM
#6
The man behind the mask
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
buy 2-3 cans of low voc brake parts cleaner and soak everything. The dust will sheet off and it'll leave drippy streaks of dirt. Keep soaking it until they dry clean. Problem solved.
March-21st-2007, 04:02 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Lower Regions of Hell - NE New Jersey
Posts: 24
Only brake items that a decent DIY can't do is brake caliper rebuild or replacement of the master cylinder otherwise the rest is not technically challenging.
That said, as stated in the above posts you can screw things up if you don't take your time and pay attention. The biggest problems arise when bleeding and lubricating. Bleeding is an easy but time consuming and precise activity. Done is a hurry and sloppily and you can spend all day trying to get the system right again. Just take your time and bleed a little at a time, you'll end going around the car more than once to get the air out and get that nice firm pedal.
Many people forget to use anti-squeal shims on the pads and use the proper (or no) lube on the guides, this won't hurt but it will make the system very noisy.
The advice on cleaning is very good, I would just add that you can use very fine steel (high grade) wool to gently rub the rotors and get a 3M brake rotor finishing pad (that you use with a drill) to "score" the rotor and get a hatch pattern. This helps with the bedding in process with the new pads.
Do a Google search or see link below for more specific info, God knows there's tons of it out there.
Last piece, don't bleed the system alone and get a brake caliper bleed wrench at Autozone or something, you don't want to break the bleed screw (I know).
Take your time and get some info and guides it's not hard and you need no real special tools.
That said, as stated in the above posts you can screw things up if you don't take your time and pay attention. The biggest problems arise when bleeding and lubricating. Bleeding is an easy but time consuming and precise activity. Done is a hurry and sloppily and you can spend all day trying to get the system right again. Just take your time and bleed a little at a time, you'll end going around the car more than once to get the air out and get that nice firm pedal.
Many people forget to use anti-squeal shims on the pads and use the proper (or no) lube on the guides, this won't hurt but it will make the system very noisy.
The advice on cleaning is very good, I would just add that you can use very fine steel (high grade) wool to gently rub the rotors and get a 3M brake rotor finishing pad (that you use with a drill) to "score" the rotor and get a hatch pattern. This helps with the bedding in process with the new pads.
Do a Google search or see link below for more specific info, God knows there's tons of it out there.
Last piece, don't bleed the system alone and get a brake caliper bleed wrench at Autozone or something, you don't want to break the bleed screw (I know).
Take your time and get some info and guides it's not hard and you need no real special tools.
March-22nd-2007, 05:15 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Lower Regions of Hell - NE New Jersey
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
please only push NAPA products on this forum!
hahaha, jk. I work for NAPA and try to pimp my stuff out whenever possible.
hahaha, jk. I work for NAPA and try to pimp my stuff out whenever possible.
NAPA sells excellent brake products
Actually it's where I used to get most of my stuff, but the one near closed 
So now I'm stuck with Autozone, Pep Boys is near by too, but I have to much diginity to go there 
June-11th-2007, 02:02 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 34
I'm planning to replace my rear brakes pads for the first time and noticed someone said this:
"Many people forget to use anti-squeal shims on the pads and use the proper (or no) lube on the guides, this won't hurt but it will make the system very noisy."
What are anti-squeal shims, how much lube do you use on the back of the pads? and what are the 'guides?' (Don't throw rocks! i'm new)
"Many people forget to use anti-squeal shims on the pads and use the proper (or no) lube on the guides, this won't hurt but it will make the system very noisy."
What are anti-squeal shims, how much lube do you use on the back of the pads? and what are the 'guides?' (Don't throw rocks! i'm new)
June-11th-2007, 02:06 PM
#13
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
The shims usually come on the new pads. They are metal or plastic shims (thin wafers) that sit between the pads and the calipers. they.. prevent it from rattling or something like that.
then you have the 'sliders' (might not be the correct term) which are very thin metal pieces that attach to the calipers and sit on the two ends of the pad mounting plate. They give the pad a smooth surface on which to glide in and out.
thirdly, there are springs that are always exerting a force on the pads pulling them away from the rotors. I always forget to put one or two of them back on whenever I do brakes, then I find them on the floor in the garage a week or two later and never feel like putting them back.
then you have the 'sliders' (might not be the correct term) which are very thin metal pieces that attach to the calipers and sit on the two ends of the pad mounting plate. They give the pad a smooth surface on which to glide in and out.
thirdly, there are springs that are always exerting a force on the pads pulling them away from the rotors. I always forget to put one or two of them back on whenever I do brakes, then I find them on the floor in the garage a week or two later and never feel like putting them back.
June-12th-2007, 08:36 AM
#15
Tech/How-To/Northeast Mod
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 2,517
I've only used a power bleeder (screws onto the brake fluid reservoir and pressurizes the system)so I dunno.