cjstringer

Problem is I did that, and they told me there is nothing that fits the MP3, which I know is crap. Anybody know which model I could say I have so they will send them for me? Maybe if I don't tell them I have an MP3 they'll send me the ones for another car that will fit.

carguycw

That's odd, I would think that the bolts would be the same for any 99-03 Pro. I would ask for the bolts for a regular 01+ model. They gave me the number for my 99, but I lost it.

BTW I would not be so quick to write the MP3 off as a good GS car; on paper, it stacks up fairly well against a lot of the competition, although the car's weight is a little high compared to a Celica. However, IMHO your chances are worse in STS, where you will be running against much lighter cars with the same wheel width and power/weight ratio (89-91 Civic Si's, Neons, even BG LX Pros) or cars with gobs more traction (Subie 2.5RS). The situation is the same in FSP because you could theoretically face a 99-00 DX with the same engine, ECU, tranny, suspension, brakes and wheels as you, but without almost 300 lbs of stereo equipment, side skirts, spoilers, foglights, power interior accessories and sound deadening.

However, you can do whatever makes you happy. I just enjoy bench racing SoloII cars; you can ignore me if you want.

cjstringer

Thanks for the thoughts carguycw. Actually, I am leading points in one of the regions I race, both class (GS) and overall. Just ran another rally today to try and improve my lead.
If you can find that part number, I'd greatly appreciate it. I may not use them more than once, but it'd be nice to see if they do me any good or not! I can already beat the STS guys, so I might as well give them a little better run to show them up if I can.

carguycw

Actually, Jesse, I agree with you on this one. The best spot for the BJ Pro, on paper, is FSP. It's just that the MP3 is one of the worst cars to start with.

BTW any thoughts on what your next car will be? Did you know that the Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development price on the LSD from the Mazdaspeed Protege is only $340?

Hmmm, lessee, start with a 99-00 DX. Add an FS-DE engine and matching tranny... MP3 ECU... MSP LSD... FS-ZE intake manifold... camber plates... AWR Bilstein coilovers... AWR 21.5mm rear bar... new engine mounts... You fill in the rest.

kcbhiw

Excellent choice. The mid engine will change some of the things you do when you drive, that's for sure, heh. At work, we have one idental to that except it's black and IT prepped (it, for some ungodly reason, is classified in ITS..should be ITA if not B). There's quite a few things you can do with that car if I understand correctly.

Pete Gossett

Hi all!

I just picked up an 03 LX & am working on setting it up for H-Stock.

A couple questions:

I've read about rotating the front strut mount for camber/castor adjustment. It looks like there are 2-positions that *could* work. My car is presently set w/the strut top forward & inward. It looks like you could also rotate it to be rearward & inward. Which is better for autox?

I'm planning on loosening everything in the front to tweak as much negative camber as possible, but I was wondering if it's worthwhile to loosen everything in the rear & try to remove the negative camber from the factory(I'll be on stock shocks/struts till next season).

Thanks!
Pete

rustychops41

I'm late too, but here goes. After ruling HS for years in a 2nd gen DX (1.5L even!) at the local events, I got an '02 DX 2.0L just in time for the Mini to come along and literally ruin H Stock for everyone, even hot shoes like Lorin Mueler and his newer 145HP Focus. When Lorin can't get within a second of them somethings wrong at the S.E.B. So I am "sort-of" running STS now, although my car is not very STS "modded". I am still on my HS legal Miata 15x6 alloys (too narrow, really), now with Falkens, which I truely hate, after running 11 plus years on R compounds. I did do the MP3 (Racing Beat) springs (again, not the ultimate for STS), and Tony's 19MM rear bar w/ end links. I already had Tokico HP's from the HS early attempts. An Injen CAI seems to help a little, although it could just be "Louder." I'm competitive to a certain level, but easily hammered by cars such as Kevin McKormicks Honda Civic (AKA the STS "Death Car"), and even Steve Bradfords much better prepared '02 P5, which has Ground Control coilovers-300lb front, 375lb rear, those ugly green MSP 5-way adj. struts (hey, at least THEY know where to mount the rear adj ****!), Rota 16x7 Slipstreams w/ 215/45-16 Falkens, camber bolts, and Tony's 21.5mm rear bar and rear trailing arms, zero rear toe, some toe out in front. Despite my weight advantage Bradford can take me with much better cornering ability, even though our driving abilities are dead even, as we often enter each others car since our site is a long drive. My two cents.

Pete Gossett

Well, I have no dillusions about winning any HS championships. lol! This is mainly my work car(I drive ~120mi/day average.), but I'll end up running our local events with it.

If you're selling those miata wheels LMK! FYI, I have a set of 17" Kosei's w/Kumho 712s that came w/the car, if you're interested.

Pete

Racing Beat

PETE its Shawn....lemme know about those rims....e-mail me

rustychops41

2. Measure front side
Have one person hold the end of the measuring tape in the groove on one side of the car and then measure to the grove on your side of the tire. Let's say you measure 55" across from groove to groove(write this down).

3. Measure back side
Repeat the process on the back side of the same wheel- Make sure you use the same grooves in the tire as before. Let's say you measure 54 7/8" on the back (write this down).


Another way to do this, slightly more accurate, is to place a piece of masking tape anywhere on the rear side of each front tire. Draw a vertical pencil mark on them. Measure the distance across. Now without removing the tape, roll the car foward so the tape is on the front side, and re-measure the distance. A bit Ghetto, but at $40 + per alignment, you can get close while trying different spring rates on coilovers, corner balancing, camber/caster changes, etc, then get it done right when you get the car set up the way you like it.
I still think someone should make a set of rear lateral links with threaded center sections (a la 2nd gen rear links) for BOTH front and rear links so we can do toe AND camber in the rear, instead of either/or. I wonder if the cam bolts in the rearmost link would also work in the front lateral link? Same bolt size? Would it fit? Would it work?