For some reason after installing the HKS boost controller, the car will only boost to 8 psi. before it would boost to 14 psi then level at 10. now for some reason, not and also after being in boost for about 10 secs the engine temp will rise rapidly until i let off the gas.

I don't know what the problem is. We checked the hoses and the intercooler for air leaks. -none-. Checked the turbo for any internal damage. -none-.

when we were having boost issues, before, it was do to a leak in the intercooler but now thats fixed...

before when my car was overheated it was do to my fans malfunctioning, (all is working now). now its only during boost.
one other time it overheated was because my radiator wasn't pressurized, i just needed to change out my radiator cap problem solve. now i don't know what it could be.

Hmm.... running out of solutions. Any suggestions??

 

maybe your thermostat isnt working? i know when my gtx engine came the thermostat was stuck open so i was always running cold, maybe yours is stuck closed? get rid of that boost controller for now too, doesnt seem to be working, i know my homemade controller broke this weekend but im still able to run 12 psi. i cant really think of anything that would be causing it to overheat unless you stuck your intake in front of your exhaust outlet.

 

Do you still have the catalytic converter under the car. Had a similar trouble with my engine, it would only boost to 7 psi with the wastegate hose disconnect (which you should never do), it should have put the boost gage in orbit but nah. Then i arranged the exhaust leak i had at the front pipe then it would only boost at 5 psi and the car didn't pull at all (less then the civic vx of my mother 88hp) cut the cat from the exhaust line reconnected the wastegate hose and voila boost is back to 10psi. The first row in the cat was broken so the exhaust couldn't flow trought it. An easy test is to remove your o2 sensor if it's after the turbo and start the car if it climb a little then you have a restriction in the exhaust which can bve easely caused by a rich exhaust flow trought the cat.

 

I had that exact overheating problem but putting a second fan in front of the turbo helped.

Hmm, it still isn't perfect though. Maybe I have a problem with my exhaust also. Although I have no cat to begin with.

 

thats weird i dont have any overheating problems and i live in florida. i have a normal radiator with a a/c fan as my cooling fan and a 180 thermo. just try the thermostat man, its only like $8.

 

thanks for all the suggestions.

does anyone here have the haltech e6k?

 

Sorry to be stealing this thread.

I looked under my car and there appears to be a dent in my downpipe probably resulting from a tow or maybe being put up on a hoist. Hmm, anyone think this could cause an overheating problem?

 

no .. it could be your water pump or check ur thermostat.. man you know how many dents my flex pip has ..

I really think you should just break down and change the water pump and do the timeing belt while at it

 

If there's to much back pressure in the exhaust it can cause an heat problem on the engine. I saw often catalitic converter broken and the temp of the engine was going up it a normal fact. The engine has to force the exhaust gas out so it heats up. Just a dent won't do anything there must be no exhaust gaz at the end of the tail pipe if you put your'e hand over it, be carefull the tip can be hot.

 

i think i figured out why i'm over heating at boost. we leaned out my car to get better mpg but ended up lowering the entire fuel map rather than just the none boost section. so my guess is that during boost, i'm running too lean.

i'll be tuning it on my own for a bit, learning the haltech. On the air fuel meter, how rich or stoich should, i be when boosted? where should it be light up? completeing rich? half rich half stoich? higher end of stoich? etc...

btw... i have the autometer air fuel ratio gauge if that helps.

 

You are lucky not to have blown it, it happen to a guy here in quebec he was adjusting is mixture under boost on the interstate and blow a connecting rod. I always referred to my autometer air fuel ratio but i just learned that they are design for n/a car and can have misreading because of the high temp cause by the turbo but i have not yet been able to have that information confirm by any tuning shop with a dyno so for now i run mine at the third green light under full boost around 10.1 if i'm correct which should be a safe level for the fuel management i have

 

at wot you should be on the 2nd to third green light.

 

i shouldn't adjust my 0 psi bar, should i, just for normal drivablity?

btw. i uped my fuel at 4000 + and the overheating went away. =) now just working on the power

 

yikes