don caballero

...just wanted to put out a word of warning for other alarm installers. I destroyed my door-lock relay module while trying to connect up driver's-door priority unlock. Some electronics are super robust: you short them out and you're sure they're ruined, but they still work... Well, the doorlock module is NOT that kind.

I was impressed w/ the service dept. They're going to replace the module, and but said if it immediately shorts out, then I'm on my own. Fair enough. The module is a $97 part, which seems reasonable considering it's 3 relays, 2 circuit boards, an IC, caps, diodes, etc. If Dodge made it, it'd be $200.

-Don Caballero

mazdaspeedwest

what model Protege do you have? My guess is they reversed the drivers doorlock switch and motor wires on the relay.....pffffftttt! pop! depending on where power was pulled from and if having the appropriate fuse, it could have done more damage.

the 1st gen cannot be set up for priority with out a complete re-wire and the 3rd gen is a single wire system with resistors, but is capable of priority. not sure about the 2nd gen, but i think it's a regular 2 wire system, so priority is also possible.

don caballero

Hey Darryl,
I have a 3rd Gen P5 (2002.5). I got the lock/unlock resistor-2-relays bit working. Then I tried to do the driver's door priority as listed below (you may recognize it, as we talked about this install via email).

for driver's door priority unlock
---------------------------------
1) cut accuator's unlock wire
2) 30 goes to accuuator's unlock wire (still connected to accuator)
3) 87a (normally closed) goes to other end of accuator's unlock wire
(which is connected to door lock relay module).
4) 87 (normally open) goes to +12V
5) 86 goes to same +12V as 87 (with maybe a diode between?)
6) 85 goes to alarm's second unlock negative output

I'm not sure what I did that actually destroyed the door-lock-relay-module, but the one mistake I know I made was: in (1) above, rather than cutting the accuator's unlock wire, I spliced into it. So I went to test it, and rather than breaking the normal path, before making the connecting w/ +12V, I tried to pull the normal path up to +12V, possible at the same time the module-relay was trying to hold that normal path at GND. I'm guessing this is what fried it.

Once I get the new module from the dealer, I'll be a little hesitant to try again. But you're pretty sure that the procedure above (minus my mistake!) is the correct one for the driver's door priority unlock?

Thanks,
Don Cab.

mazdaspeedwest

sorry dude, duh! ya spaced it i guess....

lets see...
1) yes, correct
2) yes, correct
3) yes, correct
4) yes, correct
5) yes, correct (no need for a diode, but needs a 7.5 or 10amp fuse) (Your other relays should have a 15amp fuse)
6) i think it should go to the regular unlock wire, as i think it triggers first. You may want to test this to be sure before running your wires. otherwise, yes, correct (as long as it's a negative trigger)

you have it all good now, don't worry this time.

as for your mistake, what happened was, A) the accuator wire was pulsed with 12V+ and then at the same time B) the relay fired 12V+ at it and then C) looped around the relay (87a and 30) back to the same wire again firing 12v+ at it. SMOOOOKIN! hehehhe, just kidding bro, we all make mistakes, it's just one way that we learn. It feed back to the relay module the accuator was connected to, are you sure the accuator is ok? You can use a makita battery to work the accuator for testing purposes. send 12v to one wire and ground to the other, flip flop them for the opposite action.

don caballero

Hey Darryl,
I got the new door-lock relay module today. They were all backed up at the dealer, so they let me plug it in. I was holding my breath, affraid it'd short immediately due to some other wiring mistakes I had made, but it was OK, fixed the problem. The accuator was ok too.

You mentioned adding fuses between the +12V and the coil of the relays. Are in-line fuses like the ones that come w/ the alarm wiring harness available at auto stores? Is that what you use? Also, should I add a fuse between +12V and the normally-open pin (87)? That would limit current to the accuator if the accuator were to somehow short out.

-Don Cab

mazdaspeedwest

Cool!

87 and 86 can be joined and then fused or fused separately, but they MUST be fused. Yes, inline fuse holder like on an alarm harness.