window tinting
December-16th-2002, 12:51 PM
#1
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 49
window tinting
I want to tint my silver 03 protege es
what is the darkest legal tint in Georgia (and rest of USA)?
where would be best place to go to get it done?
what is a good ballpark figure on how much it should cost?
is there brands/types of tint i should look for for better quality/longer lasting?
i want black tint, not silver/blue/orange/yellow/green/etc
thanks
what is the darkest legal tint in Georgia (and rest of USA)?
where would be best place to go to get it done?
what is a good ballpark figure on how much it should cost?
is there brands/types of tint i should look for for better quality/longer lasting?
i want black tint, not silver/blue/orange/yellow/green/etc
thanks
December-16th-2002, 07:27 PM
#3
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 80
I went 20% all around, cost $150. Looks real good, only draw back with darker than leagal tint in knoxville is you don't get a written warrenty. The shop I use is pretty good about fixing the tint if it messes up,even without the warrenty.
December-17th-2002, 08:41 AM
#4
Hu Flung Pu
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Salvador, El Salvador
Posts: 341
Originally posted by SEA_P5
Usually 35% is a good rule of thumb. around 200 bucks depending on the materials. Get black. Usually 3M makes pretty good tinting material.
Usually 35% is a good rule of thumb. around 200 bucks depending on the materials. Get black. Usually 3M makes pretty good tinting material.
$200 BUCKS!!!
I´m glad I live where I live... it only cost me $25 to do my windows with 35% black 3M tint. That includes materials and labour.
December-17th-2002, 02:46 PM
#5
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 240
Yep, I drive a P5 and paid $200 for the windows, plus another $25 for the sun roof. Still, this is one of the best things you can do to your car. It keeps it cooler in the summer, protects your interior (from the sun and thieves), and really helps when some a-hole in a truck gets up on your *** at night with hi-beams on (this always seems to happen in bumper-to-bumper traffic).
December-17th-2002, 04:36 PM
#6
WAZZU
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 613
Get the max for the sunroof...I think 5% transmission. You will not regret it.
Usually it is more expensive in WA...due to all the crazy sales tax.
I think we are almost up to 10% which is crazy!!!!
Thats why everyone likes to shop online or a different state.
Usually it is more expensive in WA...due to all the crazy sales tax.
I think we are almost up to 10% which is crazy!!!!
Thats why everyone likes to shop online or a different state.
December-19th-2002, 12:58 AM
#7
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14
Originally posted by Scarmiglio
Yep, I drive a P5 and paid $200 for the windows, plus another $25 for the sun roof. Still, this is one of the best things you can do to your car. It keeps it cooler in the summer, protects your interior (from the sun and thieves), and really helps when some a-hole in a truck gets up on your *** at night with hi-beams on (this always seems to happen in bumper-to-bumper traffic).
Yep, I drive a P5 and paid $200 for the windows, plus another $25 for the sun roof. Still, this is one of the best things you can do to your car. It keeps it cooler in the summer, protects your interior (from the sun and thieves), and really helps when some a-hole in a truck gets up on your *** at night with hi-beams on (this always seems to happen in bumper-to-bumper traffic).
I went by the place that did my last car and I was quoted $270.
That's not even including the sunroof or a strip across the top of the windshield.
December-20th-2002, 11:11 AM
#8
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
Brands to look for:
3M, Llumar, Madico - stay away from Sungard or any other brand that is or seems to be something they'd sell at PepBoyz.
If you stick with those 3, you're guaranteed good quality film.
I'd say between $125 and $200 is a good estimate of cost.
Here's excellent info from an old post by "mazdaspeedwest":
~HH
3M, Llumar, Madico - stay away from Sungard or any other brand that is or seems to be something they'd sell at PepBoyz.
If you stick with those 3, you're guaranteed good quality film.
I'd say between $125 and $200 is a good estimate of cost.
Here's excellent info from an old post by "mazdaspeedwest":
After 5 years owning a tint shop, here's a few sugestions.
1. If it's a cheap price, it's cheap tint, move on to the next shop. You'll want a "metallized" film, not a "charcoal" film. Metallized is warrantied for life and should never fade to a purple, it may fade in intesity over a 5+ years, but if it does, it will fade evenly. The charcoal film will damn near fade as you leave the parkinglot of the shop...it will turn purple and bubble and peel in no time....don't waste your money. Also, if they insist on only doing what is "legal" or basically will not work with you on what you want, move on, don't bother arguing. A good shop will inform you of the laws and then ask, what you want...and do it. It's not up to the shop, it's your car and your responsability if you get pulled over.
2. Make sure they either "shave" or take the film no less than 1/16" from the top edge of the roll up windows.
3. Make sure they "heat shrink" the rear window in one peice. P5 windows are faily simple, although some shops cheat and use 2 or more peices. The film can later shrink and pull apart at the seem, leaving a "light gap". Also, when cleaning, your cloth can catch the edge and peel it up. Plus, if they use a butt splice technique for the 2 or more peices, this means they apply the 2 peices of film then cut it along the defroster line, this can damage your defroster if not done correctly.
4. Make sure they use top quality Film (Llumar, Johnson, Madico) stay away from Sungard, Soloar Gard and anything that remotely sounds like a pep boys brand.
5. Pep boys/autozone brand is as cheap as they come...save it for your enemies.
6. Make sure they DO NOT cut too much ruber from the rear door vent windows (small triangles) as some rubber must be cut for a flawless job, make surethey don't hack it up.
7. Make sure they REMOVE the door panels, not just simply "tuck" the rubber dust seal in, as this can permanantly screw up the shape and function of the dust seal.
8. On brand new cars in the sunbelt regions, i strongly suggest a light (50%) on the complete windsheild. It's light enough that it will never be detected and will save your dash etc....better than a dash cover and plus, the windsheild is the largest window, it brings in the most amount of heat and glare, so why not help your driving comfortability. I will never drive with out it again.
9. you have to accept some degree of error, as a completely flawless job is absolutely impossible. Although the obvious light gap or dust storm is cause for a re-do.
10. a good price for a professional job should run in the $200 area, the cheap tint can be as low as $70.
hope that helps.
1. If it's a cheap price, it's cheap tint, move on to the next shop. You'll want a "metallized" film, not a "charcoal" film. Metallized is warrantied for life and should never fade to a purple, it may fade in intesity over a 5+ years, but if it does, it will fade evenly. The charcoal film will damn near fade as you leave the parkinglot of the shop...it will turn purple and bubble and peel in no time....don't waste your money. Also, if they insist on only doing what is "legal" or basically will not work with you on what you want, move on, don't bother arguing. A good shop will inform you of the laws and then ask, what you want...and do it. It's not up to the shop, it's your car and your responsability if you get pulled over.
2. Make sure they either "shave" or take the film no less than 1/16" from the top edge of the roll up windows.
3. Make sure they "heat shrink" the rear window in one peice. P5 windows are faily simple, although some shops cheat and use 2 or more peices. The film can later shrink and pull apart at the seem, leaving a "light gap". Also, when cleaning, your cloth can catch the edge and peel it up. Plus, if they use a butt splice technique for the 2 or more peices, this means they apply the 2 peices of film then cut it along the defroster line, this can damage your defroster if not done correctly.
4. Make sure they use top quality Film (Llumar, Johnson, Madico) stay away from Sungard, Soloar Gard and anything that remotely sounds like a pep boys brand.
5. Pep boys/autozone brand is as cheap as they come...save it for your enemies.
6. Make sure they DO NOT cut too much ruber from the rear door vent windows (small triangles) as some rubber must be cut for a flawless job, make surethey don't hack it up.
7. Make sure they REMOVE the door panels, not just simply "tuck" the rubber dust seal in, as this can permanantly screw up the shape and function of the dust seal.
8. On brand new cars in the sunbelt regions, i strongly suggest a light (50%) on the complete windsheild. It's light enough that it will never be detected and will save your dash etc....better than a dash cover and plus, the windsheild is the largest window, it brings in the most amount of heat and glare, so why not help your driving comfortability. I will never drive with out it again.
9. you have to accept some degree of error, as a completely flawless job is absolutely impossible. Although the obvious light gap or dust storm is cause for a re-do.
10. a good price for a professional job should run in the $200 area, the cheap tint can be as low as $70.
hope that helps.
December-22nd-2002, 03:22 PM
#9
031 - Deathtech
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Petawawa, ON. Canada
Posts: 401
Wow, you guys from the States sure pay quite a bit for window tinting. I was quoted around $200 for my P5 (Canada) and that's in Canadian funds which is worth *sigh* nothing... 
I'm getting my car down next month. Does anyone know when is a good time to have windows tinted. Don't they need a few days of warm weather for the tinting to dry properly? It's about -3 today here and it should be around the freezing or below when I get mine done. Should I wait?
Hihoslva, thanks for the tips. That will be very useful when I get mine done.
I'm getting my car down next month. Does anyone know when is a good time to have windows tinted. Don't they need a few days of warm weather for the tinting to dry properly? It's about -3 today here and it should be around the freezing or below when I get mine done. Should I wait?
Hihoslva, thanks for the tips. That will be very useful when I get mine done.
December-22nd-2002, 03:51 PM
#10
WAZZU
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 613
You can have tinting done whenever...but most individuals have it done durning better temperature. I would wait for the spring to get tint. -3 is way too cold to get tint...it will take a very long time to cure.
December-22nd-2002, 04:05 PM
#11
Master of All Things :{D
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: southeast texas, near houston
Posts: 4,118
Originally posted by Redfyre
I'm getting my car down next month. Does anyone know when is a good time to have windows tinted. Don't they need a few days of warm weather for the tinting to dry properly? It's about -3 today here and it should be around the freezing or below when I get mine done. Should I wait?
I'm getting my car down next month. Does anyone know when is a good time to have windows tinted. Don't they need a few days of warm weather for the tinting to dry properly? It's about -3 today here and it should be around the freezing or below when I get mine done. Should I wait?
OTHERWISE...I would highly recommend you wait until the spring to have your windows tinted.
December-23rd-2002, 11:16 AM
#13
Hu Flung Pu
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Salvador, El Salvador
Posts: 341
Originally posted by foxymazda
I paid $120 for all of my tint and it is darker in the back then in the front. I think its like 25% front and ?!?
about the back
either way here is a pic so you can see what it looks like, I am going to get it tinted darker I have had it for like a year and 1/2 and I am getting sick of looking at it bc it faded a little
sorry its a big pic
I paid $120 for all of my tint and it is darker in the back then in the front. I think its like 25% front and ?!?
about the backeither way here is a pic so you can see what it looks like, I am going to get it tinted darker I have had it for like a year and 1/2 and I am getting sick of looking at it bc it faded a little
sorry its a big pic
Foxy... you really need to get some rims for that car.
December-24th-2002, 12:28 AM
#14
WAZZU
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 613
Originally posted by Redfyre
Thanks for the help Sir Nuke. I guess I can wait a couple of months... *sigh*
Maybe in the meantime I can get a short air intake.
Thanks for the help Sir Nuke. I guess I can wait a couple of months... *sigh*
Maybe in the meantime I can get a short air intake.
Some of the better shops will heated garage, heat guns, proper light testing equipment, etc.
Don't get stuck with a bad installer that does not even use a heat gun to adhere the tint to your windshield.
So checkout the shops and compare prices and quality.
December-24th-2002, 11:46 AM
#15
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
I would have to question any shop that would even install tint in the cold weather - unless they are willing to let your car sit in a heated garage for at least the whole day.
Wait for warmer weather - you *might* get a good job now, but waiting is just extra insurance that the tint will last a good long time.
And looking for a good shop now is an excellent idea - use the time to your advantage and find a reputable shop you can visit once the weather warms up.
~HH
Wait for warmer weather - you *might* get a good job now, but waiting is just extra insurance that the tint will last a good long time.
And looking for a good shop now is an excellent idea - use the time to your advantage and find a reputable shop you can visit once the weather warms up.
~HH