Should I get it done? At the dealer? how much should I be paying? BTW, I live in Toronto (go Leafs!) so there's lots of salt in the winter.

 

i live in ottawa and they love to coat the roads with salt....i'd do it if it improves the life of your car!

 

oh yea.....LEAFS SUCK!

 

how does your mayor look in a Leaf Jersey? I wonder which player he is wearing.

 

I would recommend going to Krown...there's a few locations around the city. The first time you go it's like $100 and then a little cheaper each year after that.
Apparently better than Rust Check since all the guys from APA (Automobile Protection Agency) stand behind it.

 

No, it's not necessary. The underside has been rust-proofed from the factory, that's why theres's a (5-year) rust through warranty. It doesn't matter how much you rust-proofed after that, the metal will rust from the inside out (in time). It's a natural process for metal to get back to its original form.

 

I drilled three holes under the drivers seat for the car amp (1 ground, two to hold it) and I siliconed the screwheads on the inside. I wonder if I should rustproof the bottom side since there are those 3 screws sticking out. I sprayed some tar sealant of some sort on them. Hope the screws didn't void the lease!

 

no rust proofing needed in Cali but if you have peirced through the floor or any other part exposed, yes indeed, seal and rust proof them.

 

Where the hell do you go?? Some apprentice kid getting 7hr!!

Can't say I have any holes in my fenders. Yes they drill holes...in the door jams and the bottoms of the doors.
See you in four years and we'll compare your rusted piece of crap to mine looking like it's maybe two years old!!

 

Why such a negative attitude about rust proofing!! Oh...I figured it out, it's because you drive a relic!!

Maybe someday when you own a new or newer vehicle you might care a little more about trying to keep it that way.

Sorry to hear you got your *** fired from Krown. Where are you working now? Burger King!!!

 

There are two answers to this question,
If you want to keep the car for more than 5 years, then yes you need to do it.

If you don't, then no not really, however the rust proofing will probably pay for itself on trade in as the warrenty is transferable.

Automotive galvanized door and body panels will start to rust after 3 years from the inside due to condesation. The rust penetrates after 5-6 years. My brothers 96 prelude is a prime example just starting to show perforation rust after 6 years. And it was undercoated from the factory.

If you want know if I am qualified to answer your question, I am a metallurgist that works at a steel company that makes galvanized automotive exposed steel.

Cheers Stocker

PS I took my P5 to Krown. Good warrenty and decent price.

 

I was relaxed DUDE!! You were the first one to make fun of some else's comments.

So it's apparent you can dish it out but can't take it without getting bent. DUDE!!

 

hmm...lemme get this straight his car is a relic cause it is a 93? I have a 93 accord that not only looks better than your car but could easily smoke it in a race, even with my 18's. I see you have 17's, get a little strapped for cash? why not 18's? I do a lot of autocrossing, but wouldn't mind a little straight line racing, show you what 14 psi can do on a JDM motor Don't be dissing older cars.oh and chill out

 

oh wait! oops your rims were under future mods! I hate when people put "future mods" under their sigs, cause more than likely they don't get em

 

I see there is another big talker on this forum.

I guess you can afford all those mods since your cars is going to be 10 years old soon!!

Good for you...why not drive it up to Canada? That's if it can make it!!

Gee...is that a sign of how much you can afford if you buy 18's over 17's?
I don't care for 18's...so chill.