Opinion on HU's
October-13th-2002, 12:13 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 665
my price range is about 500 or below. 500 meaning im not gunna pay 500 but on crutchfield that'll b the price but i can def. find it at least for half of that.
i'm looking for a cool looking HU that plays discs encoded with MP3's. also something that has a stealth thing like the Aiwa does which is y im thinking about that one.
i'm looking for a cool looking HU that plays discs encoded with MP3's. also something that has a stealth thing like the Aiwa does which is y im thinking about that one.
October-13th-2002, 12:26 PM
#4
huh?
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Caracas,Venezuela
Posts: 871
If you want mp3 playback check out the Alpine 7894, the pioneers are also good. The stealth thing is kind of rare with good HUs, the only ones I can think of are the Alpine 7897 and 7998, but this are above your price range, IMO this "stealth" feature is very stupid because most of them make it very obvious that the frontal isn't detached and also most thiefs will probably know about this.
I strongly advise against getting the aiwa though.
I strongly advise against getting the aiwa though.
October-13th-2002, 01:15 PM
#5
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
I must agree about the Aiwa - forget it.
I read up on it a few months back, and two things really annoyed me: NO dimmer at ALL - the display is bright, and stays that way even at night. And, the unit does NOT pick up an MP3 track where it left off! If you power down in the middle of a track, it starts over again on power-up. That frigging sux - you could listen to the same track for hours that way, and never hear the end.
I've also heard skipping complaints.
IMO, the Kenwood is the best of that group. Might not be the prettiest, or even the most functional (like the Eq and pre-outs and stuff like that), but of those three, it should absolutely be the most reliable. I've never had a problem with any Kenwood deck I've owned - my current one has been fine for about a year now (MP8017 - also an MP3 deck), and does it's job well for the price range.
But, I also think you should expand your search a bit. There are better deals that the ones you have listed - mainly the Pioneers and Alpines already mentioned. Even the Panasonic and JVC decks could surprise you.
~HH
I read up on it a few months back, and two things really annoyed me: NO dimmer at ALL - the display is bright, and stays that way even at night. And, the unit does NOT pick up an MP3 track where it left off! If you power down in the middle of a track, it starts over again on power-up. That frigging sux - you could listen to the same track for hours that way, and never hear the end.
I've also heard skipping complaints.
IMO, the Kenwood is the best of that group. Might not be the prettiest, or even the most functional (like the Eq and pre-outs and stuff like that), but of those three, it should absolutely be the most reliable. I've never had a problem with any Kenwood deck I've owned - my current one has been fine for about a year now (MP8017 - also an MP3 deck), and does it's job well for the price range.
But, I also think you should expand your search a bit. There are better deals that the ones you have listed - mainly the Pioneers and Alpines already mentioned. Even the Panasonic and JVC decks could surprise you.
~HH
October-13th-2002, 05:53 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 129
I gotta say I agree with the others here when it comes to the headunits. Avoid the Sony and Aiwa decks. If you want to go with a Kenwood, go for something in their Excelon series. I had a Kenwood Excelon deck from 1999 and it never had any problems with it, it was a great deck. I however sold the car that it was in so am buying an Apline 7995. (basically the same as the 7894 only it doesn't have an internal amp) The Alpine 7894 is a great headunit and IMHO a better buy then the three you have listed.
October-13th-2002, 09:45 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Jersey
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how about clarions?? are they good also? all i know now is that im not gunna get the sony or aiwa, also the stealth thing is right how thieves probably know there's something there. that's a good point. i saw that new alpine with the big screen thingy that pops out that's pretty sweet.
my question is. . . what's the best one to go with if i'm using stock pioneer speakers, no amp. sub in the future with amp, but not for speakers. which is better between clarion, kenwood, and alpine? you guys are mad helpful . thanks a lot.
my question is. . . what's the best one to go with if i'm using stock pioneer speakers, no amp. sub in the future with amp, but not for speakers. which is better between clarion, kenwood, and alpine? you guys are mad helpful . thanks a lot.
October-13th-2002, 10:30 PM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Alabama
Posts: 270
Alpine or Kenwood. Clarions look nice with all the lights and stuff, but cant stick with the Alpine and Kenwoods'. Good luck on the choice, remember...cheaper usually means CHeaper....Later
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October-14th-2002, 11:42 AM
#10
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Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
The stock speakers (pioneer or not - they ARE paper cone crap) handle 25 watts max (stamped on the magnet of the speaker) - one can only guess the RMS, but remember, the stock HU puts out about 8 distortion free watts per channel, and a max of about 14 or so.
I would definitely say the Alpine decks look like the way to go if you are not amping. They will have higher power than any of the others, and they are reasonably rated. I don't know that you'll ever see 60 undistorted watts per side, but for sure they can 30 to 40 with no problem, and that is pretty high for deck power.
For security, I always prefer a detatch face unit. The "stealth" stuff is cool, but does not offer the same amount of security. It's quite rare a thief will take a deck with no face and hope to find one that matches - it happens, but not that often. Some of the Kenwoods (like mine) have both stealth and detatch - I usually flip the face during the day, and pop it off at night.
And you really oughtta consider upgrading the speakers. Seriously - you could get something halfway decent and not spend more that $150 for all four (and maybe less than $100 if you do some good bargain hunting on eBay), and the difference between them and the stock paper crap will be night and day. I originally had cheap Kenwoods in my car. They will handle deck power just fine, sounded way better than stock, and were - get this - $23 a pair on eBay.
~HH
I would definitely say the Alpine decks look like the way to go if you are not amping. They will have higher power than any of the others, and they are reasonably rated. I don't know that you'll ever see 60 undistorted watts per side, but for sure they can 30 to 40 with no problem, and that is pretty high for deck power.
For security, I always prefer a detatch face unit. The "stealth" stuff is cool, but does not offer the same amount of security. It's quite rare a thief will take a deck with no face and hope to find one that matches - it happens, but not that often. Some of the Kenwoods (like mine) have both stealth and detatch - I usually flip the face during the day, and pop it off at night.
And you really oughtta consider upgrading the speakers. Seriously - you could get something halfway decent and not spend more that $150 for all four (and maybe less than $100 if you do some good bargain hunting on eBay), and the difference between them and the stock paper crap will be night and day. I originally had cheap Kenwoods in my car. They will handle deck power just fine, sounded way better than stock, and were - get this - $23 a pair on eBay.
~HH
October-14th-2002, 07:45 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 665
well yea my speakers are pioneers, BUT they're stock so probably not very good. i used 2 want to upgrade speakers, but then i dunno i get so lost and confused. there's so much stuff involved in it, plate speakers, normal speakers?? i'm just like WHAT?! and i dont wanna feel stupid by posting on here askin every little thing about car audio.
October-14th-2002, 08:59 PM
#12
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Location: Long Island,NY
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Don't worry about feeling stupid!
Quick rundown:
Your car uses 5x7 oval speakers in the front doors, and 6x9 ovals in the rear deck.
Speakers come in a few types:
Coaxial: These have a built-in tweeter, usually in the center of the woofer of the speaker. There are two-way (woofer/tweeter), three-way (woofer/midrange/tweeter) and even four-way (woofer/two mids or two tweeters) coaxial speakers. Good bang for the buck.
Component: The woofer and tweeter (and sometimes a midrange also in a 3-way component set) are separate units, and get mounted in separate locations in the car. Some two-way sets have the option of mounting the tweeter similar to a coaxial setup (in the center of the woofer). Components usually include a crossover, which directs the proper frequency signals to each speaker. Better sound, but more involved install. Some need amps to sound good, and they can cost considerably more than coaxials.
Plate speakers generally are a separate woofer and tweeter, like components, but mounted to a plate which fits standard openings (like the 5x7 and 6x9 in your car). Many have a removeable tweeter that can be mounted separately like a true component set. Decent, but one problem is that you don't get a very large woofer. A plate speaker for your 5x7 doors might only have a 4" woofer - this won't produce much mid-bass. I've never used plate speakers - usually for this reason. Coaxials do the same job better, IMO. And if you want the separate tweeter, why not have a true component set.
For the simplest setup, with the least (probably none) mods to the car, and easiest installation look for coaxial speakers. They can also be the cheapest, but of course, not always. Ignore MAX power handling ratings, and look at RMS - that's the power they'll handle safely for indefinite periods of time. If your deck puts out 25 watts RMS, for example, look for speakers that handle 25 watts RMS, or slightly more. If it is a LOT more, they need more power to reach full potential, and won't sound AS good with low power. Some speakers are even rated with an RMS "range" - 10 to 40 watts RMS for instance.
Not that complicated, is it?
~HH
Quick rundown:
Your car uses 5x7 oval speakers in the front doors, and 6x9 ovals in the rear deck.
Speakers come in a few types:
Coaxial: These have a built-in tweeter, usually in the center of the woofer of the speaker. There are two-way (woofer/tweeter), three-way (woofer/midrange/tweeter) and even four-way (woofer/two mids or two tweeters) coaxial speakers. Good bang for the buck.
Component: The woofer and tweeter (and sometimes a midrange also in a 3-way component set) are separate units, and get mounted in separate locations in the car. Some two-way sets have the option of mounting the tweeter similar to a coaxial setup (in the center of the woofer). Components usually include a crossover, which directs the proper frequency signals to each speaker. Better sound, but more involved install. Some need amps to sound good, and they can cost considerably more than coaxials.
Plate speakers generally are a separate woofer and tweeter, like components, but mounted to a plate which fits standard openings (like the 5x7 and 6x9 in your car). Many have a removeable tweeter that can be mounted separately like a true component set. Decent, but one problem is that you don't get a very large woofer. A plate speaker for your 5x7 doors might only have a 4" woofer - this won't produce much mid-bass. I've never used plate speakers - usually for this reason. Coaxials do the same job better, IMO. And if you want the separate tweeter, why not have a true component set.
For the simplest setup, with the least (probably none) mods to the car, and easiest installation look for coaxial speakers. They can also be the cheapest, but of course, not always. Ignore MAX power handling ratings, and look at RMS - that's the power they'll handle safely for indefinite periods of time. If your deck puts out 25 watts RMS, for example, look for speakers that handle 25 watts RMS, or slightly more. If it is a LOT more, they need more power to reach full potential, and won't sound AS good with low power. Some speakers are even rated with an RMS "range" - 10 to 40 watts RMS for instance.
Not that complicated, is it?
~HH
October-15th-2002, 12:22 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 665
Originally posted by hihoslva
Not that complicated, is it?
~HH
Not that complicated, is it?
~HH
October-15th-2002, 01:22 PM
#14
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Location: Long Island,NY
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Sounds like you are on the right track. For not using amps, I would tend to think the Alpines are better decks. Most of the Kenwoods are excellent, but the Alpine decks are generally more powerful.
Just remember not to get all hung up on the speakers. Choose the sizes that fit your car, and the models that fit your budget. When using deck power, there is no need to spend tons of dough on speakers. Stay with known brands - Kenwood, Pioneer, Polk come to mind. If they sell it at K-Mart, forget it (Pyle, Pyramid, etc).
Your best bet is to audition speakers at a store. Remember, a watt is a watt - so even if you don't audition speakers with the exact deck you'll be buying, you will still get a good idea of how they sound. And don't let the salesguys push you around, or sell you on higher-power handling speakers that you don't need. Once you decide on what you want, hit the web and get 'em for cheap!
~HH
Just remember not to get all hung up on the speakers. Choose the sizes that fit your car, and the models that fit your budget. When using deck power, there is no need to spend tons of dough on speakers. Stay with known brands - Kenwood, Pioneer, Polk come to mind. If they sell it at K-Mart, forget it (Pyle, Pyramid, etc).
Your best bet is to audition speakers at a store. Remember, a watt is a watt - so even if you don't audition speakers with the exact deck you'll be buying, you will still get a good idea of how they sound. And don't let the salesguys push you around, or sell you on higher-power handling speakers that you don't need. Once you decide on what you want, hit the web and get 'em for cheap!
~HH
October-15th-2002, 02:28 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 665
o yea hihoslva, i just remembered y i was saying that all this car audio stuff is confusing. let's say when i want to put a subwoofer in the car. this is when im really lost. the alpine HU is 27 RMS peak 50 i think. is that just for the speakers or does that go with speakers and subwoofer as well. then would i need an amp for the sub, and does the amp have to be mono if i just have maybe one 10" or one 12" in a box? do all three ( HU, amp, n sub ) have to be matching in RMS?