I Need Help!!!
February-10th-2003, 11:38 PM
#1
Ghetto Protege
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Addison, IL
Posts: 282
I Need Help!!!
Well, i was readin the forum and read something about resonance frequency of our tunks and that it being ~53Hz.
So i decided to set my amp to ~53Hz, and now my bass is just SICK...
My Pro has no been dubbed the rattler.
My tunk, bumpers, mirrors and rear quatrte panels now rattle.
on the inside, all 4 doors, the dash, and many other things rattle, how do i prevent this while keeping my SICK bass????
So i decided to set my amp to ~53Hz, and now my bass is just SICK...
My Pro has no been dubbed the rattler.
My tunk, bumpers, mirrors and rear quatrte panels now rattle.
on the inside, all 4 doors, the dash, and many other things rattle, how do i prevent this while keeping my SICK bass????
February-11th-2003, 08:07 AM
#2
Protege Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 720
Re: I Need Help!!!
Originally posted by Green Skanka
My tunk, bumpers, mirrors and rear quatrte panels now rattle.
on the inside, all 4 doors, the dash, and many other things rattle, how do i prevent this while keeping my SICK bass????
My tunk, bumpers, mirrors and rear quatrte panels now rattle.
on the inside, all 4 doors, the dash, and many other things rattle, how do i prevent this while keeping my SICK bass????
Try an audi A4
February-11th-2003, 03:57 PM
#4
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 14
Am curious to know if there's a forumla as well. I plan on just creating a cd full of test tones and graphing each bass level tone down on a piece of paper.
One frequency sure is too boomy for my tastes. Hopefully an EQ can fix that.
-Jomero, who's pretty much won in the "war against the rattles"
One frequency sure is too boomy for my tastes. Hopefully an EQ can fix that.
-Jomero, who's pretty much won in the "war against the rattles"
February-11th-2003, 04:03 PM
#5
Protege Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 720
There are equations for wave length and frequency that are good to determin sub distance from the mic but as far a formula for resonant frequency the auto envirornment is to complex and you are batter off using a good SQ sub in a sealed box with smooth bass across the bass octives and use a 1/3 octive analyser.
February-11th-2003, 05:32 PM
#7
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
My tunk, bumpers, mirrors and rear quatrte panels now rattle.
on the inside, all 4 doors, the dash, and many other things rattle, how do i prevent this while keeping my SICK bass????
I know folks that would shoot me for saying this but what an opprotunity! Get it rattling, and mentally make notes of where it is doing it, and they lay hard on sound deadening materal in those spots!
I say it is an opprotunity becuase many folks want to deaden, but don't have the "weak" spots in hand, so they end up doing massive deadening all over instead in just in the trouble spots. It is a gift to know just where it is needed compared to shooting in the dark. Deadening is great stuff, but it adds weight to the car, which in a daily user can be a drag on acceleration, wear on brakes, and make it feel overall sluggish.
It won't go away with just a single coat of deadening material, indeed it may take several. The little Nissan I use for SQ has up to seven coats in some of the problem areas to get rid of sounds.
There will also be a cascading effect here. Start in the interior near the sub, and work out. You may find that some of the sounds coming from distand locations, or externally like the bumper might moderate when you deaden inside.
Don't give up, but do deaden, rattling cars tend to be a distraction to what otherwise might be outstanding sound systems!
on the inside, all 4 doors, the dash, and many other things rattle, how do i prevent this while keeping my SICK bass????
I know folks that would shoot me for saying this but what an opprotunity! Get it rattling, and mentally make notes of where it is doing it, and they lay hard on sound deadening materal in those spots!
I say it is an opprotunity becuase many folks want to deaden, but don't have the "weak" spots in hand, so they end up doing massive deadening all over instead in just in the trouble spots. It is a gift to know just where it is needed compared to shooting in the dark. Deadening is great stuff, but it adds weight to the car, which in a daily user can be a drag on acceleration, wear on brakes, and make it feel overall sluggish.
It won't go away with just a single coat of deadening material, indeed it may take several. The little Nissan I use for SQ has up to seven coats in some of the problem areas to get rid of sounds.
There will also be a cascading effect here. Start in the interior near the sub, and work out. You may find that some of the sounds coming from distand locations, or externally like the bumper might moderate when you deaden inside.
Don't give up, but do deaden, rattling cars tend to be a distraction to what otherwise might be outstanding sound systems!
February-12th-2003, 12:52 AM
#9
Smoking or Non-Smoking???
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Philly
Posts: 731
purchase some sound deadener off of http://www.b-quiet.com .. dynamat knock off that works just as well.. you go with 1 layer to start everywhere, floors, doors, back deck, trunk lid and the tub of the trunk and the side walls, i only have 200 watts split into 2 rf subs, and that mother rattles like you wouldn't believe. i took some hvac zaps and tightened in my rear trunk panels in strategic spots and it got rid of 50% of the rattle, but i've still got to do some major work on my system. if you dynamat or use b-quiet all over your car, you will appreciate the work you put in because the road noise will drop, your music will sound SICKER.. DEEPER.. and CLEARER than you could ever imagine... and like they said, you may have to do more than 1 layer, and if you're on a budget, buy a 15 sqft kit of b-quiet lite and a roller for about $45 bucks and sound deaden your trunk, and you'll be able to keep that sick 53hz of sound on your amp. it should get rid of most of your problems... or if you really want to go all out, you can buy the 50 sqft kit, i think that runs about 89 bucks, and do two layers on your trunk lid, trunk sides and basin, and that will be plenty for you, and infact, you might have enough left over to kill that back dash rattle... something that not many people can nail down, but at least in my 94 pro lx, i have a nasty rattle coming from the 3rd brake light bracing and encasement.
edit: by the way, doing everything isn't a matter of being oblivious to the trouble spots, but layering sound deadening materials all in your trunk strengthen your body paneling, making a solid bond between every integral part of your trunk... all that rattling you hear in your trunk is mostly because of that plastic paneling, so tear that **** out and carpet everything if you really want to go all out and get rid of rattles... but like i was saying, when you creat a uniform bond of material to hold all of your trunk together as a whole, you're doing more good than harm. imagine having a leak around the rim of your sub, so each time it hits, you're releasing air out, and the sub's not hitting as hard... it's all a matter of design of the sub, but having a leaking box can sometimes create a shitty sound and in some cases, can destroy your sub.... so by dynamatting your trunk, you're actually trapping the sound waves coming from your subs and by not allowing them to escape in so many places, giving them something to resonate off of... and in any normal REAR firing sub set up, with an adaquate amount of dynamat, you can actually increase your sound output by 3dB or so... so deadening your trunk is the SMARTEST idea you could do, NOT trouble spotting by just deadening whats gone wrong... this is proven and i don't know any sound installation expert that wouldn't recommend dynamat to get rid of rattling. and it's an endless battle, you'll never eliminate the rattle... a local shop said, and i quote, "You can go as far as $1,500 dollars to get a fully proper dynamat install to mostly, if not fully solve your rattling problem." -- Good Vibrations, Horsham, PA
edit: by the way, doing everything isn't a matter of being oblivious to the trouble spots, but layering sound deadening materials all in your trunk strengthen your body paneling, making a solid bond between every integral part of your trunk... all that rattling you hear in your trunk is mostly because of that plastic paneling, so tear that **** out and carpet everything if you really want to go all out and get rid of rattles... but like i was saying, when you creat a uniform bond of material to hold all of your trunk together as a whole, you're doing more good than harm. imagine having a leak around the rim of your sub, so each time it hits, you're releasing air out, and the sub's not hitting as hard... it's all a matter of design of the sub, but having a leaking box can sometimes create a shitty sound and in some cases, can destroy your sub.... so by dynamatting your trunk, you're actually trapping the sound waves coming from your subs and by not allowing them to escape in so many places, giving them something to resonate off of... and in any normal REAR firing sub set up, with an adaquate amount of dynamat, you can actually increase your sound output by 3dB or so... so deadening your trunk is the SMARTEST idea you could do, NOT trouble spotting by just deadening whats gone wrong... this is proven and i don't know any sound installation expert that wouldn't recommend dynamat to get rid of rattling. and it's an endless battle, you'll never eliminate the rattle... a local shop said, and i quote, "You can go as far as $1,500 dollars to get a fully proper dynamat install to mostly, if not fully solve your rattling problem." -- Good Vibrations, Horsham, PA
Last edited by demoninvictus; February-12th-2003 at 01:12 AM.
February-12th-2003, 09:12 PM
#12
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: chicago,il.
Posts: 120
Pat, p.m. me ! Ive spayed 2 gallons of deadener and put about 20ft. of mat in the car its like riding in a s500 benz, and thats not easy to say with 1000watts in an mp3! Im not an spl guy but wanted to run my old faithfull orion amps in the car.