Goldtaz1

Has anyone on this forum been able to upgrade the factory alternator to a high output alternator? The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the ECU would reject any alternator other than something that was of OEM specifications because the expected output of the alternator is hard coded in the ECU? If you successfully upgraded to a high output alternator please instruct me where to go and who to talk to. Any and all help would be appreciated.

macdaddyslomo

can't be done...possible alternative would be to run a 2nd alternator seperate from the system for audio only

Goldtaz1

Then please educate me on how to add a second alt into the mix.

Goldtaz1

And Why?? Is the mechanics' explanation valid?

Roddimus Prime

yes...somewhat. He gave you the "dummys answer". Your system is set up to expect one certain voltage from your alternator.

Mike is right. Either modify a second alternator to your car are buy some of those farrad caps for your stereo.

D_Roc1320

yeah i dont even know if that will work. Our alternators are pretty shitty to say the least. All i did was add some xenon headlights H7 and foglights H4 i believe and ever since then ive had sqeeling problems with it. I cant run my strobes or neons or have my stereo on without the car being on or else when I turn the car on then all it does is sqeel. And even in the cold weather, I have to let the car warm up for like 10-15 minutes before driving it. Cause if I dont then the minute I put the car in reverse (automatic) it starts sqeeling. I think its something to do with the bearings in the alternator pulley. And I had subs in my car as well, but even then I had a 2 farad cap with 2 10" 450 watt subs and a 1000 watt amp, thats really when everything started going downhill. Arent our alternators only like 60 amps?? Damn japanese people lol, making everything all difficult. Cause i also was going to get my alternator rebuild but with more ampage, but I guess not now. Adding a second alternator for the strobes, headlights and neons is definitly going to be a big big big challenge.

Da P-Funk!

Whoa. The ECU looks for voltage not amp output (AFAIK). The voltages would be the same (~14VDC). So why not? I would buy an upgrade at the time i needed a new alt.

Big bass hits dim the lights at idle... sweeeeet.

macdaddyslomo

It WONT work...It's been tried before...The ECU will freak out. Period.

Goldtaz1

Some other "car savy" folks have told me that I should bypass the ECU by wiring in some resistor diodes that trick the ECU into accepting the high output alternator. Do you know if this would be a good idea? What kinds of problems could I potentially face? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

macdaddyslomo

send a PM to 1sty on msprotege. he was able to "bypass" the ecu I believe...

mechman

The Mazda 3 alternator has a two pin plug that is labeled "P"& "D". Half of the regulator is in the ECU and half is in the alternator. We have overcome this problem by our adapter plug interface. It simplies the installation of our Hi Output PROPOWER Alternator.


edited by MACDADDYSLOMO:If you want to sell products here, you must register as a vendor..please email the admin

Goldtaz1

E-mail has been sent to you. I look forward to getting additional information about this one.

macdaddyslomo

seller needs to register as a vendor

Goldtaz1

Agreed

Rotorlution

Hi Macdaddyslomo

We are currenlty in discussion with Ryan Scott regarding a group buy on my dad's line of alternators. We currently have one going on at the Rx7club. My dad is new to the forums and didnt realize this was against the rules. My apologies.

Thanks
Chris