Scarmiglio

Ok, I did several searches for this, but found nothing. I have a 02.5 Protege5 and am replacing the front speakers. I have components stock, and am replacing them with 5.25" Alpine Type R components. It looks as though the stock crossover (if there is one) is not in the door, because the wires for the stock tweeter come through the door seperate from the wires for the stock speaker. Which wires coming through the door do I run to the Alpine crossover? Can I just use the two wires that plugged into the stock speaker, or do I need to use the wires that went up to the stock tweeter also? Any help on this issue is greatly appreciated. I would love to get this install done by tomorrow. Thanks!

hihoslva

The stock system has no real "crossover" - it just has a capacitor (bass blocker) on the wires to the tweeters.

The wires that feed the stock woofers should be full-range signal. Use those.


~HH

Scarmiglio

Oh well, I already ran the new wiring. It was a bitch, but at least if I ever want to run more than 80watts to the front doors I can (that'll happen).

douggie

I would use the wires that come from the stock speaker to go into the crossover. But since you have run new wires, then just use those. Then run a pair of wires from the crossover to the tweeter and another pair of wires from the crossover to the new midrange speaker. Then mount the crossover somewhere in the door.

Just tape up and forget about the wire that goes to the stock tweeter.

Scarmiglio

Um, yeah. I already know how to do that part.

MisterT

I used the skinny factory wires on my midbass and it is getting 75 watts RMS, and it does just fine with the factory. I tried it and then gave up on rewiring to the doors. From there, I tapped in to the wires behind the head unit to run speaker wires to the amp in the trunk.

Poseur

Okay, so bear with me, this may be lame, butyea... I'm looking to run new wires to my doors and I'd like to know how you did it. Did you have to take your entire dash apart to get in? or perhaps go in from behind the hood? I don't mind getting a bit involved as long as I can get it run cleanly and so it won't be problematic. This may be lame, and I'm mostly just gonna give it a shot because I've thought about doing it for awhile, but I'm also considering running a small pair of power/ground wires so I can power a couple of small LED's to illuminate my speakers. Eventually I may try for a halo-effect thing (like the angel eyes) if it's not too stupid looking. Anyway, would your method of wiring be crease and ground-free enough to trust having a live power wire running along with it? and is there a possibility to keep it sperate form the speaker wires soasto cut down on interferance?

Scarmiglio

There's a "how to" somewhere else on the board, but what I did was pop the plug that goes into the side of the car from the door our. You'll need to pull back the rubber weather cover and use a flat head screw driver to pop it out. Once you get it out of the door, there's a green clip holding the white plastic plug together that you can pull half way out so you can take the white plastic plug together. Then I carefully drilled through 2 of the empty slots in the plug on both sides. This could be done with the plug together, but it's easier to access with it taken apart and you're less likely to clip a wire. Once It's drilled wide enough, run your speaker wire through the plug. You'll need to carefully work the wire down through the rubber boot. This is a pain, but worth it (imho). Once you get it through into the door, pull enough wire through for what you need. If you want to run a seperate wire for neon you could tie it to the speaker wire and then pull it through as well. Back to the speaker wire. Once it's through the White plastic plug I put it through the hole into the car. This part is a bitch as the hole is not reachable. I kept shoving more and more speaker wire into the hole until some of it was finally reachable. It's a little easier to get to if you remove the panel (on the passenger side) right next to the door (this is covering some kind of crossover looking thing). Anyway, a long grabber tool of some kind is helpful in getting the end of the speaker wire. try a bent clothes hanger with a hook on one end. Once you have the wire all the way through, make sure you have enough in the door because once it's all put back together it's hard to pull through (unless you drill a really big hole in the white plug). Anyway, then you put everything back together and you're done. Do a search for a more detailed install, but this is the jist of it. The wire running took me about 3 hours to do both doors. I was being careful with the first one, so it took me a little bit longer. The driver side is easier. Good luck!

Poseur

Yea, I've got bad luck with searching, I tried a bit, but came up with nothing, got frustrated and dropped it. I had my door panel apart the other night poking around to see what there is to see, and My biggest concern was getting to it from the kick-panel side. Good note on pulling the plug out first, too I'd imagine that makes it easier to shove wire through as well. I was trying to figure out other places to get at the wire from, and that jsut doesn't seem to be happening. Very simple and clean approach, glad it works, and Thankyou again. This gives me the confidence to try.