B-QUIET "Brown bread" ? (Dynamat alternative)
June-14th-2003, 05:12 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 456
B-QUIET "Brown bread" ? (Dynamat alternative)
Does anyone have any experience with this material? The manufacturer says that it is better than Dynamat Extreme, but can anyone else verify this? Or if it's on par with it....
It is cheaper and I am thinking of buying it for my 2nd gen protege. Also, how many square feet of this material do I need to cover the entire interior of my car (roof, floor, doors, etc... the whole nine yards)? I was going to order 70 sq.ft. of it...
Thanks for your time!
Martin
P.S. Here's the comparison chart.
http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html
It is cheaper and I am thinking of buying it for my 2nd gen protege. Also, how many square feet of this material do I need to cover the entire interior of my car (roof, floor, doors, etc... the whole nine yards)? I was going to order 70 sq.ft. of it...
Thanks for your time!
Martin
P.S. Here's the comparison chart.
http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html
Last edited by Intruder; June-30th-2003 at 11:55 AM.
June-14th-2003, 05:33 PM
#2
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
I am currently using brown bread in an project with my Mazdaspeed Protege. I am using
48 sq feet of B-Quiet L-comp
52 sq feet of B-Quiet V comp
280 sq feet of B-Quiet Brown Bread
300 sq feet of B-Quiet Extreme
on the interior.
The products are top noch, and the pricing is great. Frankly Dynamat is just way overpriced, even at true wholesale. The extreme has slightly better numbers as a deadening product, but not enough to justify the cost.
Both as about the same level of pain the butt to use, but both display the same adhesion characteristics.
They used to have a sampler pack you could order that would get you a little bitty square of each product, order it if you want and check out what it looks like.
Overall I am a big convert and it is now my deadening material of choice.
48 sq feet of B-Quiet L-comp
52 sq feet of B-Quiet V comp
280 sq feet of B-Quiet Brown Bread
300 sq feet of B-Quiet Extreme
on the interior.
The products are top noch, and the pricing is great. Frankly Dynamat is just way overpriced, even at true wholesale. The extreme has slightly better numbers as a deadening product, but not enough to justify the cost.
Both as about the same level of pain the butt to use, but both display the same adhesion characteristics.
They used to have a sampler pack you could order that would get you a little bitty square of each product, order it if you want and check out what it looks like.
Overall I am a big convert and it is now my deadening material of choice.
June-14th-2003, 05:59 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 456
WOW, thanks a lot man! Looks like I'll proceed with my order... But how much do I need? Is 70 sq. feet enough? I won't be double layering or anything... I'm gonna pay $150 (shipping included) for 70 sq. ft. of brown bread. Is this a good price?
Also, can you tell me why you use different types of the material?
Also, can you tell me why you use different types of the material?
June-15th-2003, 03:21 AM
#4
Smoking or Non-Smoking???
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Philly
Posts: 731
deadener is deadener to me... don't waste your money on dynamat. personally, i used tsunami mat from circut city, but was considering b-quiet. there are ton's of knock offs out there and are going to produce the same results.
peace
peace
June-15th-2003, 10:34 AM
#5
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
In principle I could not agree more that deadener is deadener, but in terms of the types of materials, how well they adhere, how many Db of sound floor they produce, thickness, weight, they are a good deal of varience.
I am using so many different materaials for just those reasons. I am looking for example to deaden the actual exterior "skin" of the doors, then interior frames of the doors, and then a whole covering across the interior of the doors right under the door panels. Each really requires different properties. This type of detail in not normal or usual, so for a "basic" deadening job, the use of a basic type of material will work fine. In my instance, I am doing an extreme job with my daughter for the fun of it. I think it is for fun.
The lighter weight stuff is for under the headliner. I have had several conversations with the actual B-Quiet folks regarding the project, they have been most helpful. For that alone they get my bucks.
Let us know what you decide on- and happy deadening!!
I am using so many different materaials for just those reasons. I am looking for example to deaden the actual exterior "skin" of the doors, then interior frames of the doors, and then a whole covering across the interior of the doors right under the door panels. Each really requires different properties. This type of detail in not normal or usual, so for a "basic" deadening job, the use of a basic type of material will work fine. In my instance, I am doing an extreme job with my daughter for the fun of it. I think it is for fun.
The lighter weight stuff is for under the headliner. I have had several conversations with the actual B-Quiet folks regarding the project, they have been most helpful. For that alone they get my bucks. Let us know what you decide on- and happy deadening!!
Last edited by Dave Cameron; June-15th-2003 at 10:46 AM.
June-15th-2003, 01:31 PM
#7
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
Somewhere between 70 and 120 would do it. I think I have an old post somewhere about how to install. You don't need to do the whole car unless you are going extreme- just the areas where noise is coming from.
Any tips will be appreciated!
June-15th-2003, 02:32 PM
#9
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
here is one old post of mine-
I have used both Dynamat and B-Quiet, and they are pretty much the same materials. The lighter weight materals that both offer are the best product for the trunk lid where they will out and out defyiing gravity.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.
I think the issue of deadening is what is one looking to gain?
If you are looking to get modest improvements in the quality of sound, then just deaden about the speakers themselves. If you want to stop the trunk rattles, then deaden the trunk. I you are looking for adding about 3 DB (max) to the sound floor of the car, then deaden the whole thing. If you are looking to eleminate a some of the exterior noise, then deaden the whole enterior. If you have some specifc creaks and groans to the car, then pull the interior, have a friend drive you around and you move around in the car, identify the spots of sound, and then deaden those areas.
Does this make any sense? I will take buy the way a minimum of one total layer, with seconds on key areas to get much of a difference on whole car deadening projects.
I have used both Dynamat and B-Quiet, and they are pretty much the same materials. The lighter weight materals that both offer are the best product for the trunk lid where they will out and out defyiing gravity.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.
I think the issue of deadening is what is one looking to gain?
If you are looking to get modest improvements in the quality of sound, then just deaden about the speakers themselves. If you want to stop the trunk rattles, then deaden the trunk. I you are looking for adding about 3 DB (max) to the sound floor of the car, then deaden the whole thing. If you are looking to eleminate a some of the exterior noise, then deaden the whole enterior. If you have some specifc creaks and groans to the car, then pull the interior, have a friend drive you around and you move around in the car, identify the spots of sound, and then deaden those areas.
Does this make any sense? I will take buy the way a minimum of one total layer, with seconds on key areas to get much of a difference on whole car deadening projects.
June-15th-2003, 02:50 PM
#11
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
well it doubles the odds that one will get decent adhesion. It is a royal pain when the stuff comes off and you have the interior buttoned up again. I would for sure consider at least a second roll for any gravity defying angles like sides or trunk lids.
I have the doors off the right now, and I am woriking on a third rolling of the exterior skins and the frames of the doors.
I have the doors off the right now, and I am woriking on a third rolling of the exterior skins and the frames of the doors.
June-15th-2003, 05:15 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 456
Originally posted by Dave Cameron
all four doors are off, as is the trunk lid. The interior is totally out of the car.
all four doors are off, as is the trunk lid. The interior is totally out of the car.
you put the deadeing material on the inside of the door, right? like... on the inside of the "outer skin". right?
how do you do that? as far as I can remember, the inside of the door isn't very accessible.
June-15th-2003, 10:27 PM
#15
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
One door at a time, I am removing all interior components and then installing in small over lapping patches the deadening. I have always liked working deadening this way, you can work the material better in smaller amounts and you build a more than one layer thick mosaic. And you are right, it is a task getting into the doors even with everything removed.
Let us know what way you go!
Let us know what way you go!