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Old September-2nd-2002 | 03:50 PM
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alternators

I have been reading up on stuff and I was wondering does any know if they make a bigger alternator for the 2nd gen????
Old September-3rd-2002 | 11:46 AM
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Tell us a little about the system you are going to run. Many many times a larger alternator is a cure to a problem that does not exsist! How much amping are you looking to do?
Old September-3rd-2002 | 02:55 PM
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Just a general question, does putting a higher rated alternator in tax the engine more, or is it somehow more efficient?
Old September-4th-2002 | 07:15 PM
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the reason why I was asking was because my lights keep dimming when the music hits thats alll...
Old September-4th-2002 | 08:02 PM
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ok right now I have a 400 watt amp by DHD which I'm going to switch out... Then I have 250 sony amp that run my highs Then I have cross over by Koiler. I am also running lights that are under my dash. Later on I plan to run underbody lights too so what all do I need...
Old September-5th-2002 | 08:27 PM
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I would second a spiral cell, and say to try not to run the air, lights and pound at idles either. The alternator puts out only so much and can't exceed that, so when you pull more than it can produce, you pull off the battery. Larger capacity batter will help, put make sure you give it recycle times, with no stereo and lights and air to build up the battery again. You may want to consider a charger, but watch out, spiral batterys are a complicated charge to do correctlly. Check out Optima's site for info.
Generally larger alternators are not a great answer for daily use cars. Try spinning the shaft of a small alernator if you can, and then a larger one if you can. There is a exponential additional amount of torque that the larger one uses. To just turn it over without a load will soak the horsepower of the car, and with a really heavy load may take the engine outside of specified ratings to accessory drag.
If you plan to do professional level competition and not drive the car, then consider an alternator, otherwise compromise a little.
Old September-6th-2002 | 02:48 PM
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ok...you should just run a 1 farad capacitor. That should take care of the dimming. Also, it costs a fraction of getting a new alternator or another battery. That's my 2 cents, though.
Old September-6th-2002 | 03:57 PM
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Originally posted by blue LEDz
just make sure that if you get a cap, install it within 18" from the power terminals of the amp, and no closer than 6".
what's the reason for the 6" limitation on how close to the amp you can install it? I'm just curious...
Old September-6th-2002 | 10:00 PM
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ok, Yall say that I should get a cap..right...so then what brand of cap should I get??? I mean I don't have any knowledge in that department.
Old September-6th-2002 | 11:10 PM
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I have a 200 amp alternator in my MP3. I never noticed a difference in performance for the car power wise. Also it won't stop lights from dimming. I can still dim my lights with 2 1 farad monster cable caps, the alternator and an optima yellow top, plus all the cables, includung factory are 1/0 and this is just with an xtant 1001 and 604.

So you know I don't have an aftermarket alternator I have a motorsport so it doesn't f-up the idle as much.
Old September-7th-2002 | 12:54 AM
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I got mine from the alternator shop that installed it. It is a replacement but had to be custome mounted since it was larger then the factory one. I don't know if the stock regulator is in the ECU or not. All I know is I constantly have the battery light on but thats the only down side. While running 1/0 to the alternator I didn't see any electronics on it.
Old September-7th-2002 | 01:44 PM
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Originally posted by JJB

what's the reason for the 6" limitation on how close to the amp you can install it? I'm just curious...
Does anyone know why??????????
Old September-7th-2002 | 01:52 PM
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It is the recommendation of the manufacturers most of the time, so to not avoid a warrenty issue. It is a standard used in the industry when hardware is tested and measured so that apple ot apple comparisons are a little more uniform and fair- an attempt to control as many varaible as possible in testing. Since this is the recommended length for testing to stay in the parameters that the test produce the manufacturers state it as a install specification, aviod claims from customer that it did not perform as well as advertised. The only reasoning I can really see is resistance droppage of current on longer runs. Anymore I personally do stick to shorter heavy gauge runs....
Old September-7th-2002 | 10:50 PM
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I've got a 1.0 farad rockford fosgate cap...it seems to work fine for now, but when I bring in the big guns (1500watt amp), I'm gonna have to toss in another 1.0 farad cap. Rule of thumb is about 1.0 farad for up to 1000 watts. 0.5 farads for 500 watts. The watts being what your amp is rated to put out.

Now I know you all are gonna say, "Why the heck does he need 2 farads if he just said 1 farad for 1000 watts and .5 for 500. Simple...I'm gonna build a custom box and put each cap on the sides of the amp. I'm going for symmetry.
Old September-8th-2002 | 09:45 PM
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Satureday I noticed after a strong ru with alot of boost my car would almost stall and one time it did. I am starting to suspect the Alternator after all. I am beggining to think the alternator drags alot on the engine when it returns to idle quickly from high RPM runs and the added restriction of the turbo stalls the car.

Before the turbo I didn't have any problem with stalls but I never payed attention to the RPMs at stops to see if they dropped.


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