Advice on sub
#1
Advice on sub
Yeah guys I need some advice on subwoofers. I wanna install a 10", hig quality sub that will give me the best in sound quality over loudness. I wanna be able to feel the bass rather than hear it if you know what I mean. One of my friend has an eclipse (10") installed in his civic hatch and it amazed me!
I was checkin' out a 10" orion but how will that compare with the eclipse?
Also I am what you would probably call an audio retard so I don't know anything when it comes to audio.
I was checkin' out a 10" orion but how will that compare with the eclipse?
Also I am what you would probably call an audio retard so I don't know anything when it comes to audio.
#2
dont worry.....your not alone....i have no idea when it comes to buying subs and stuff.....all this 2 ohm, 4 channel, RMS peak power, power handling crap gets me so confused in no time.....
and im going with 2 JL 12W3's.....ive never even heard of Orion or Eclipse.....
and im going with 2 JL 12W3's.....ive never even heard of Orion or Eclipse.....
#3
I went around and around with this same dilemma and I ended up buying a Diamond Audio sub. I listned to JL, Eclipse, RF, Kicker, Alpine, etc., and the Diamond couldn't be beat for the price (for my ears at least). I recommend Diamond to anyone who asks. IMO, They're right up there with Rainbow, but for about 1/2 the price.
FWIW: Both Orion and Eclipse are good names in car audio...Eclipse being a bit more desirable of the two, but Orion ain't too shabby either...not at all.
http://ecoustics.audioreview.com/cat...4_1808crx.aspx
FWIW: Both Orion and Eclipse are good names in car audio...Eclipse being a bit more desirable of the two, but Orion ain't too shabby either...not at all.
http://ecoustics.audioreview.com/cat...4_1808crx.aspx
Last edited by eggynatey; November-27th-2006 at 11:24 PM.
#4
I also purchased Diamond audio. I put a set of 6.5" components in front and 6.5" coaxs in the rear doors. I also bought 2 12" diamond subs and built a cutom enclosure based on their diamgram on the site. They are loud! The thing I love the most though is that they are so clear and tight. I have owned and installed a lot of systems for friends, and I can honestly say that you can not beat Diamond Audio in quality for the price.
I actually haven't been using my subs (box is really heavy in my 3), and having been pondering only using 1 of them. PM me if you are interested in the other one.
I actually haven't been using my subs (box is really heavy in my 3), and having been pondering only using 1 of them. PM me if you are interested in the other one.
#5
I have 2 orion 10"s there amazing subs esp for the price.
They hit hard but not deep like your looking for. Like very hard you will feel the bass. Like a punch to the chest. But I chose to go instead with a 12 because it hits deeper. And I like the occasional shake up the spine.
Interested in the diamond 12 above how much?
They hit hard but not deep like your looking for. Like very hard you will feel the bass. Like a punch to the chest. But I chose to go instead with a 12 because it hits deeper. And I like the occasional shake up the spine.
Interested in the diamond 12 above how much?
#6
I have a JL 10W0 10" sub that I've had for about 5 years. Sounds awesome. It works in small enclosures really well, which is a plus if you're tight on space or just want to be efficient with it's use. Like you, I wanted a clean, tight sound (non-ported trait) versus a booming/looser sounding (typical of ported box subs).
The JL was the right one. $100 then, and about the same price now, I assume. Look at the RMS wattage for reliable power use of the speaker or amp. I have no clue what RMS stands for, but it basically means if a speaker's info says something like 150 watts RMS then that's the most oomph you can run through it and have it be completely reliable (somebody correct me if I'm wrong)
My sub is connected to a small Kenwood amp which has been a great product. But I at least recommend the JL as a quality speaker, even if it is a little pricier.
The JL was the right one. $100 then, and about the same price now, I assume. Look at the RMS wattage for reliable power use of the speaker or amp. I have no clue what RMS stands for, but it basically means if a speaker's info says something like 150 watts RMS then that's the most oomph you can run through it and have it be completely reliable (somebody correct me if I'm wrong)
My sub is connected to a small Kenwood amp which has been a great product. But I at least recommend the JL as a quality speaker, even if it is a little pricier.
#7
i have a 3 and i put polk components in front and rear and 2 12" Mtx 5500 and 2 seperate MTX amps it set me back about $1500 but the sound is great and i am planin to put a touch screen DVD in the next couple of weeks but you cant go wrong with the MTX's
#9
RE-bumping an old thread...but I want to say something about this:
It doesn't really matter as much what equipment you own!
Honestly, its more about the install, and how you build/what you build.
Example:
Taking the best subwoofer in the universe (doesn't exist, but play along), and putting it into a box that is incorrect for it, well that will suck as bad as the cheapest brand in a decent box. Actually it will be worse.
Consider less about the brands, and more about how it is installed, and the install procedures you take when you work on your car. I'll expand on this later, if you like.
Also, One thing I'd like people to know: If you don't know about a brand, please, please, PLEASE don't assume its no good! You'd be surprised at how many no-name brands will plainly kick the crap out of higher end, well known brands. In this industry, name recognition means NOTHING. The ability to get something to sound good does not depend on what logo it has. Please, never forget.
It doesn't really matter as much what equipment you own!
Honestly, its more about the install, and how you build/what you build.
Example:
Taking the best subwoofer in the universe (doesn't exist, but play along), and putting it into a box that is incorrect for it, well that will suck as bad as the cheapest brand in a decent box. Actually it will be worse.
Consider less about the brands, and more about how it is installed, and the install procedures you take when you work on your car. I'll expand on this later, if you like.
Also, One thing I'd like people to know: If you don't know about a brand, please, please, PLEASE don't assume its no good! You'd be surprised at how many no-name brands will plainly kick the crap out of higher end, well known brands. In this industry, name recognition means NOTHING. The ability to get something to sound good does not depend on what logo it has. Please, never forget.
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