How to remove and replace the springs on 01-03 Proteges.
March-7th-2005, 08:39 AM
#1
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How to remove and replace the springs on 01-03 Proteges.
I was asked to do this so here it is. I didn't check to see if it was already posted so if it is OPPS!
You will need to get a McPherson strut spring compressor; you can rent them at most Auto parts stores. I will say this; do not do this unless you have 4 jack stands. Make sure you break loose the lug nuts before jacking up the car; I just know someone will forget that. Jack the car up and put it on stands. Gently rock the car to make sure it is stable. Once you are sure the car is stable take the tires off. After working in auto shops I have learned to always put the wheels under the car just in case it does fall it wont hit the ground. Better to replace the wheels than have the car fall on the ground and possibly crush you!
I’ll start on the top.
You have 4 nuts that hold the strut on the car and one nut that holds the spring on the strut. I found it’s easier if you break these loose first. Trying to break the top nut loose after taking the strut off is to hard. DO NOT TAKE THE NUT OFF! JUST LOOSEN IT!
After you have them loose you can start to compress the spring. Make sure you have a socket to use on the spring compressor. If you use a wrench you’ll be there all day. Once you have it compressed enough to wiggle around then that’s enough. After that’s done then you can start on the bottom bolts. Make sure to take off the break line clamp and the ABS clamp if you have ABS. There are two bolts that hold the spindle on the strut. Break these loose. Once these are loose you can go ahead and take off the top 4 SMALL nuts on top. AGAIN DO NOT TAKE OFF THE BIG NUT. Once the top nuts are off I used the floor jack to hold up the strut so I could get the 2 bottom bolts out. Once the bottom bolts are out lower the jack and LEAN it out towards you. If you hold it and don’t put to big of a bind on the strut you will not need to take off the end link. All you have left to do is make sure there is no tension on the spring, and then take off the big nut holding the top plate on. Remove the spring and just do it all in reverse! Remember how the top plate came off, it has to go back on the same way or it wont line up. That’s the same for the rubber peace that’s under the top plate. These instructions will work for the back struts as well. You have to take off the back deck cover to get to them. I didn’t find that out until after I tore the trunk apart! LOL. If you have any other question just ask.
I suck at spelling and typing, if I left any thing out please feel free to add to it. I did it this way and it only took me 3 hrs to do it by myself. I so suggest you get a friend to help you. I also used the Eibach pro kit 1.8 drop front and back. I did not need an alignment but that doesn’t mean you wont. I highly suggest you at least get it check.
You will need to get a McPherson strut spring compressor; you can rent them at most Auto parts stores. I will say this; do not do this unless you have 4 jack stands. Make sure you break loose the lug nuts before jacking up the car; I just know someone will forget that. Jack the car up and put it on stands. Gently rock the car to make sure it is stable. Once you are sure the car is stable take the tires off. After working in auto shops I have learned to always put the wheels under the car just in case it does fall it wont hit the ground. Better to replace the wheels than have the car fall on the ground and possibly crush you!
I’ll start on the top.
You have 4 nuts that hold the strut on the car and one nut that holds the spring on the strut. I found it’s easier if you break these loose first. Trying to break the top nut loose after taking the strut off is to hard. DO NOT TAKE THE NUT OFF! JUST LOOSEN IT!
After you have them loose you can start to compress the spring. Make sure you have a socket to use on the spring compressor. If you use a wrench you’ll be there all day. Once you have it compressed enough to wiggle around then that’s enough. After that’s done then you can start on the bottom bolts. Make sure to take off the break line clamp and the ABS clamp if you have ABS. There are two bolts that hold the spindle on the strut. Break these loose. Once these are loose you can go ahead and take off the top 4 SMALL nuts on top. AGAIN DO NOT TAKE OFF THE BIG NUT. Once the top nuts are off I used the floor jack to hold up the strut so I could get the 2 bottom bolts out. Once the bottom bolts are out lower the jack and LEAN it out towards you. If you hold it and don’t put to big of a bind on the strut you will not need to take off the end link. All you have left to do is make sure there is no tension on the spring, and then take off the big nut holding the top plate on. Remove the spring and just do it all in reverse! Remember how the top plate came off, it has to go back on the same way or it wont line up. That’s the same for the rubber peace that’s under the top plate. These instructions will work for the back struts as well. You have to take off the back deck cover to get to them. I didn’t find that out until after I tore the trunk apart! LOL. If you have any other question just ask.
I suck at spelling and typing, if I left any thing out please feel free to add to it. I did it this way and it only took me 3 hrs to do it by myself. I so suggest you get a friend to help you. I also used the Eibach pro kit 1.8 drop front and back. I did not need an alignment but that doesn’t mean you wont. I highly suggest you at least get it check.
Last edited by hughes412; March-8th-2005 at 06:48 AM.
March-7th-2005, 09:27 AM
#2
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Location: Ft. Sill, Oklahoma
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It would be good to throw in a word about the rear endlinks. They are a PITA for most people. I soaked them in WD40 before getting in the car for 3 days prior to my spring install. One of them still gave me a fit and is now partially stripped. I wouldn't want to try a spring job on a Pro without air tools. Also... You really should consider an alignment. Even if you car tracks straight and feels smooth, your toe could still be way off... If it is and you don't notice it, your tires will live a VERY short life.
March-7th-2005, 09:53 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by dudeondacouch
It would be good to throw in a word about the rear endlinks. They are a PITA for most people. I soaked them in WD40 before getting in the car for 3 days prior to my spring install. One of them still gave me a fit and is now partially stripped. I wouldn't want to try a spring job on a Pro without air tools. Also... You really should consider an alignment. Even if you car tracks straight and feels smooth, your toe could still be way off... If it is and you don't notice it, your tires will live a VERY short life.
About the end links. Thats why its a good ideal to have a friend help you. If he holds it up you don't have to even mess with them. I had one pop out on me and I could even get the others to budge. So I had a guy hold the strut while I put the spring on. It was easier that way. As far as the alignment, I did this about 6 months ago and I have no tire problems. But a nother friend did the Teins and its a 2 in drop and he did need an anlignment. It ate his rear tires with in a few weeks. Thats why at the end of the How to I said I would get it checked. I have a new alignment kit I would sell for 15 plus shipping. New its 25 + shipping. The shipping shouldn't be much, its just a couple of bolts.
And if I didn't have this meet coming and if I wasn't buying the ECU I would buy the spring compressor. Some body needs to buy it, thats a good price.
March-7th-2005, 10:08 AM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
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Originally Posted by hughes412
Some body needs to buy it, thats a good price.
March-7th-2005, 10:33 AM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 4,150
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
FYI, I could sell anyone who needs a set of spring compressor for $25 shipped in the US. I have 2 sets here...they come in handy!
March-7th-2005, 10:50 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by kargoboy
I think I paid 27 bucks for mine...
hughes, you should get the 4 wheel alignment done. After I put my Eibachs on, it didn't feel so bad, but when I finally had it done, it was way off.
hughes, you should get the 4 wheel alignment done. After I put my Eibachs on, it didn't feel so bad, but when I finally had it done, it was way off.
I might one day, but to pay a 100 for one is to much for me. I used a gauge to check the tires after 6k (I rotate them every 6) they had no wear on them. They look streight. I do suggest that anybody that drops a car get it checked if you don't know what to look out for though.
March-8th-2005, 07:45 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 3,186
I had to wait a few weeks until I had the money, also.
NTB has a 1-year guaranteed alignment for like, $89 and they didn't give me a hassle about my car being lowered. Plus, they should be able to dig up a $25-off coupon (they always have them) or tell them you'll go somewhere else.
NTB has a 1-year guaranteed alignment for like, $89 and they didn't give me a hassle about my car being lowered. Plus, they should be able to dig up a $25-off coupon (they always have them) or tell them you'll go somewhere else.
March-12th-2005, 12:46 PM
#12
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Location: Trinidad
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Hey thanks for doin' the write up man!
I just have a few questions.
a guy has an eibach kit for $2800 and he has another kit for $1100
what i wanted to know is that if i wanted to adjust how low the car goes, will the kits do that for me or do i have to buy a special kit for that?
I just have a few questions.
a guy has an eibach kit for $2800 and he has another kit for $1100
what i wanted to know is that if i wanted to adjust how low the car goes, will the kits do that for me or do i have to buy a special kit for that?
March-13th-2005, 11:20 PM
#13
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I guess your talking about buying coilovers. Because springs are only 220.00 for Eibach and 120.00 for teins(?). I have read that most people that buy the coilovers sell them because that make alot of noise. But thats just hearsay. I would ask around. Ive never used them.
But to answer your question, yes if you buy the ADJUSTABLE coilovers you can go from 1-3 in drop or rais it back up.
If you buy just the springs there is NO adjustment. I got a 2 in drop out of the Eibach and love it.
Oh and when it comes to buying important things like stuts or coilovers or springs DO NOT buy cheep stuf. Its always worth the money to go with something that is a sure thing.
But to answer your question, yes if you buy the ADJUSTABLE coilovers you can go from 1-3 in drop or rais it back up.
If you buy just the springs there is NO adjustment. I got a 2 in drop out of the Eibach and love it.
Oh and when it comes to buying important things like stuts or coilovers or springs DO NOT buy cheep stuf. Its always worth the money to go with something that is a sure thing.
April-16th-2005, 08:43 AM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Seguin, TX
Posts: 244
I didn't need it at first but i just got my springs yesterday. Anyway, thanks for the how-to hughes. i searched last night but could not find anything as helpful as yours! My bro and i will install them tonite once i get those spring compressors!!
April-16th-2005, 02:38 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by mazdabel
I didn't need it at first but i just got my springs yesterday. Anyway, thanks for the how-to hughes. i searched last night but could not find anything as helpful as yours! My bro and i will install them tonite once i get those spring compressors!!
Cool, I hope it helps. If you run into any problems let me know.