Camber???
September-23rd-2003, 01:54 PM
#1
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Maple Grove
Posts: 2
Camber???
I've noticed some people have had camber problems when lowering there car, and some haven't. I"ve been unfortunate enough to have the problems. my front sit like / \ that intstead of l l that. anyone know anything I could do. ???twisting the top strut plate above the spring(where the white dot is)????? any ideas??????
Thanks Matt.
Thanks Matt.
September-29th-2003, 07:24 PM
#2
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 201
I had talked about the strut tower thing before, but couldn't find the post in a search 
Maybe it got lost...
In anycase, here's how the dots work:
The white dots should be symmetrical from side to side.
The dot has 4 positions
1. Pointing outward and back
2. Pointing outward and forward
3. Pointing inward and back
4. Pointing inward and forward
The dot pointing outward (positions 1&2), will give you more camber (not much, but a little).
The dot pointing back (positions 1 & 3) will give you more Caster
More caster will give you more feel on the steering wheel, while this is good for a sporty feel, some people find it causes the car to "drift" to one side or another while on the highway.
You can try rotating the strut top (position 3 or 4), but the range of camber adjustment is very little (1 degree if you are lucky!).
If you have an extremely visible amout of camber, just rotating the top will not fix it and you will need camber plates.
To compound problems, if you do need camber plates to fix your problem, you may need a coilover type spring kit with small diameter springs to allow the clearance inside the fender for the strut to move far enough.
Keep in mind, camber plates will run you about $300. A good set of springs like Eibach or Tein (non coilovers) will run you $150-$200.
Maybe it got lost...
In anycase, here's how the dots work:
The white dots should be symmetrical from side to side.
The dot has 4 positions
1. Pointing outward and back
2. Pointing outward and forward
3. Pointing inward and back
4. Pointing inward and forward
The dot pointing outward (positions 1&2), will give you more camber (not much, but a little).
The dot pointing back (positions 1 & 3) will give you more Caster
More caster will give you more feel on the steering wheel, while this is good for a sporty feel, some people find it causes the car to "drift" to one side or another while on the highway.
You can try rotating the strut top (position 3 or 4), but the range of camber adjustment is very little (1 degree if you are lucky!).
If you have an extremely visible amout of camber, just rotating the top will not fix it and you will need camber plates.
To compound problems, if you do need camber plates to fix your problem, you may need a coilover type spring kit with small diameter springs to allow the clearance inside the fender for the strut to move far enough.
Keep in mind, camber plates will run you about $300. A good set of springs like Eibach or Tein (non coilovers) will run you $150-$200.
September-30th-2003, 09:47 PM
#3
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Redmond, OR
Posts: 14
Jason,
Is this allowed per the FSM? I noticed the offset of the strut shaft in the upper mount was not biased towards max camber and caster in my car and rotated it to the max camber/caster setting. IOW, what you said below. I don't have a FSM, yet and was wondering if was a legal thing to do for HS.
I also gained some camber with all the slop in the clevis bolts and control arms. Between all this, I got a signifigant amount of camber...-1 to -1.5 or so I'd have to guess. Also, it's too bad the rear subframe is pinned on one side to the body. My toe adjusters are not set to the same point for a given toe setting and I was hoping to square it up by moving the subframe around alittle bit.
Steve W.
#9 HS
Is this allowed per the FSM? I noticed the offset of the strut shaft in the upper mount was not biased towards max camber and caster in my car and rotated it to the max camber/caster setting. IOW, what you said below. I don't have a FSM, yet and was wondering if was a legal thing to do for HS.
I also gained some camber with all the slop in the clevis bolts and control arms. Between all this, I got a signifigant amount of camber...-1 to -1.5 or so I'd have to guess. Also, it's too bad the rear subframe is pinned on one side to the body. My toe adjusters are not set to the same point for a given toe setting and I was hoping to square it up by moving the subframe around alittle bit.
Steve W.
#9 HS
Originally posted by Jas00x
I had talked about the strut tower thing before, but couldn't find the post in a search
Maybe it got lost...
In anycase, here's how the dots work:
The white dots should be symmetrical from side to side.
The dot has 4 positions
1. Pointing outward and back
2. Pointing outward and forward
3. Pointing inward and back
4. Pointing inward and forward
The dot pointing outward (positions 1&2), will give you more camber (not much, but a little).
The dot pointing back (positions 1 & 3) will give you more Caster
More caster will give you more feel on the steering wheel, while this is good for a sporty feel, some people find it causes the car to "drift" to one side or another while on the highway.
You can try rotating the strut top (position 3 or 4), but the range of camber adjustment is very little (1 degree if you are lucky!).
If you have an extremely visible amout of camber, just rotating the top will not fix it and you will need camber plates.
To compound problems, if you do need camber plates to fix your problem, you may need a coilover type spring kit with small diameter springs to allow the clearance inside the fender for the strut to move far enough.
Keep in mind, camber plates will run you about $300. A good set of springs like Eibach or Tein (non coilovers) will run you $150-$200.
I had talked about the strut tower thing before, but couldn't find the post in a search
Maybe it got lost...
In anycase, here's how the dots work:
The white dots should be symmetrical from side to side.
The dot has 4 positions
1. Pointing outward and back
2. Pointing outward and forward
3. Pointing inward and back
4. Pointing inward and forward
The dot pointing outward (positions 1&2), will give you more camber (not much, but a little).
The dot pointing back (positions 1 & 3) will give you more Caster
More caster will give you more feel on the steering wheel, while this is good for a sporty feel, some people find it causes the car to "drift" to one side or another while on the highway.
You can try rotating the strut top (position 3 or 4), but the range of camber adjustment is very little (1 degree if you are lucky!).
If you have an extremely visible amout of camber, just rotating the top will not fix it and you will need camber plates.
To compound problems, if you do need camber plates to fix your problem, you may need a coilover type spring kit with small diameter springs to allow the clearance inside the fender for the strut to move far enough.
Keep in mind, camber plates will run you about $300. A good set of springs like Eibach or Tein (non coilovers) will run you $150-$200.
October-1st-2003, 07:29 PM
#4
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 201
OK for HS
Yep this is perfectly fine for H-Stock.
As a side note, I looked under the hood of the MAZDASPEED Protege at the dealer a couple of weeks ago and noticed it was in the Max Camber, Caster position. Its interesting to hear that your DX came from the factory with a different setting.
guess those guys a Mazda are trying to get all they can out of the MAZDASPEED.
As a side note, I looked under the hood of the MAZDASPEED Protege at the dealer a couple of weeks ago and noticed it was in the Max Camber, Caster position. Its interesting to hear that your DX came from the factory with a different setting.
guess those guys a Mazda are trying to get all they can out of the MAZDASPEED.
October-1st-2003, 08:32 PM
#5
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Redmond, OR
Posts: 14
Re: OK for HS
Originally posted by Jas00x
Yep this is perfectly fine for H-Stock.
As a side note, I looked under the hood of the MAZDASPEED Protege at the dealer a couple of weeks ago and noticed it was in the Max Camber, Caster position. Its interesting to hear that your DX came from the factory with a different setting.
guess those guys a Mazda are trying to get all they can out of the MAZDASPEED.
Yep this is perfectly fine for H-Stock.
As a side note, I looked under the hood of the MAZDASPEED Protege at the dealer a couple of weeks ago and noticed it was in the Max Camber, Caster position. Its interesting to hear that your DX came from the factory with a different setting.
guess those guys a Mazda are trying to get all they can out of the MAZDASPEED.
I know a shop that makes swaybars and could make me whatever I want for a reasonable price. I may also relocate the mounting point for the endlink to the control arm (using rod-ends), I think that would make it effectively smaller without having to change it.
Steve W.
October-2nd-2003, 09:23 PM
#6
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 11
Camber is a good thing guys!!
I have been racing for a couple of years now with a variety of Cars and a degree or a degree and a half + of camber allways seems to make a great difference to the better when it comes to hadleling. I just dropped my P-5 using the mazda Speed/ Tokikio adj's and a set of Eibach ProKits and ended up with exactly the right amount of camber for my ride. Call it dumb luck, but this thing handles like a friggin slot car when set on full stiff.... Its plain yummy how it takes the on and off camber turns.. I did incorprate the big AWR sway and adj end links too. Not that they really have anything to do with camber but it sure helped to keep her balanced in and out of the corners. Good luck..
Have a nice Day
Brian
Have a nice Day
Brian
October-3rd-2003, 05:07 PM
#7
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 201
I agree that camber is a good thing- I'll take as much as I can!!
However, Lenny's (er Matt) orignal post stated that he had too much camber. And to properly correct the camber, he would probably need to do more than just rotate the strut top.
Brian,
How much camber did you end up with after lowering your P5? I lowered mine and I also have some camber bolts, but I haven't gotten it aligned yet to get a measurement.
However, Lenny's (er Matt) orignal post stated that he had too much camber. And to properly correct the camber, he would probably need to do more than just rotate the strut top.
Brian,
How much camber did you end up with after lowering your P5? I lowered mine and I also have some camber bolts, but I haven't gotten it aligned yet to get a measurement.
October-5th-2003, 05:41 PM
#8
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 11
Camber
From our measurements 1.75 deg. I'd really like to find out if anyone is planning on developing a camber kit for the P5. These things handle sooo damm good after adding the adj. endlinks for the sways along with the adj struts/ It would be incredale if we had that one last adjustment to dial in the ride ya know.
Have a nice day
Brian
Have a nice day
Brian
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