distance2

I was informed by Canadian tire that my brakes were fine but needed 1.5 hrs to grease the moving parts of the brakes and rear drums so they don't seize. Is this something that I can do myself? Is it even necessary? What ya tink??? 01 pro 1.6 L disks(front) drums(back)

Da P-Funk!

My first impression is: 'if you had to have someone else check wear - you may not be qualified to dismantle and lube the brakes'.

It is as complex as a pad/shoe replacement. How long until your pads/shoes need replacement? Your brakes should last to that interval (they are designed to). If one brake begins to drag (pulls to one side/wheel is hotter than others) then i def'ly have some one do the maintenance.

Did this help?

hughes412

I think I'm gona go the oposit way. Breaks are easy, break shops like to scam you big time. I know I used to run a Break Check! That the front calipers of and sand down all the parts that connect metal to metal. The only greas or lub needed on the front is in side the boots for the pins that the caliper slides on. Oh and when sanding your just trying to get the rust off, not any metal. On the rear, take off both rear drums. Do one at a time, first get some break cleaner sprey and drinch all the springs. DO NOT sprey the wheel cylinders! There on the top of the assembley. You really don't need to greas the back, how ever if the springs look rusty go buy you a rear break hardware kit and replace the springs. If you do one at a time you can use the other side as an example of how it goes back together.
When adjusting the rear breaks, with the tires on use should beable to turn the rears tires 1.5-2 turns with minimal force. If it rotates more that 2 times you need to tighten the breaks more.
hope this helps, I hate how shops still money. I use to do this for free. The customes would always come back for oil changes and other stuff because they could trust me.

distance2

I do oil changes, coolant, plugs and have had all wheels off and lowered the calipers, just not enough ***** to change the pads as brakes are very crucial component to any moving object. But it sounds as if I can do all the necessary greasing myself. Oh ya, I have installed new drum kit with all springs on my 98 voyager and it was a biatch because those springs are4 so tight. Then I bought that tool thing removing springs ect and all was well. So I am not a complete virgin

Redfyre

If you don't know what you are doing, it's best to get someone who does know to do it. Screwing with your brakes if you don't know what you are doing is not a good idea.

hughes412

Yea but you could make that point on just about anything. CAI, you could cost you self a lot of money just by bumping the mass air flow. It's all common sence. Take you time, dont put grease on the springs in the back. That'll just make the dust collect on them and help corode even faster.

Roddimus Prime

yeah, this is a big scam as far as I know....Of course iwork downsouth where there is never any snow or road salt. I don't know if that affects the brakes in any way but Hughes is right. the only "lubricated parts" on the calipers are the slide pins....that takes less than 15 minutes a side. There are no lubricated parts on drums aside from the pistons on the wheel cylinders...

sounds to me like you're getting ripped.

distance2

The slide pins! Can I just lube them in place or do I have to lower the Caliper? Thanks in advance!

Roddimus Prime

you have to pull the caliper off...it's 1 bolt. you take the bolt out lift the caliper up and slide it back away from the outside....then just rub the pin and bolt down with vaseline or "syl-glide". I like the syl-glide better.

distance2

I'll try that. I have had the Cal off and that sounds easy. I ain't getting ripped by no shop for that mindless work. Thanks again. What is brakeclean service. This was also in the estimate.

hughes412

Thats the part I was telling you about taking the drums off and spraying them down with break cleaner. Its a rip off!

Do you feel any shimmying when stopping? If the stirring wheel vibrates when applying the breaks the you sould get the rotors turned (shaved). You can take them off at home and take them to a break shop and they can do it for about 20 bucks. If not then your fine.

Da P-Funk!

Rod-Man, is Vaseline up to the task? I am thinking about the temps - wouldn't hi-temp bearing grease be better?

eh?

distance2

I hear ya now! I am a little slow today!