Brake pads & rotors - what do you suggest?
#17
Hi guys!
My two cents:
There are two ways to increase braking efficiency-Change the rotor size or change the pad compound. That is really about it. Slots, dimples and holes are bad news in a stock size rotor as they do not disapate the heat more quickly, rather they reduce the mass of the heat sink and end up warping very quickly. Really, on a stock size rotor they are eye candy.
I like the hawks-run them myself. I started out with the EBC's and really didn't have a good experience with them. Loud and very dusty. True, the hawks are still squeaky when cold, but if you want higher friction you pretty much have to live with it.
With the best,
My two cents:
There are two ways to increase braking efficiency-Change the rotor size or change the pad compound. That is really about it. Slots, dimples and holes are bad news in a stock size rotor as they do not disapate the heat more quickly, rather they reduce the mass of the heat sink and end up warping very quickly. Really, on a stock size rotor they are eye candy.
I like the hawks-run them myself. I started out with the EBC's and really didn't have a good experience with them. Loud and very dusty. True, the hawks are still squeaky when cold, but if you want higher friction you pretty much have to live with it.
With the best,
#18
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree Wes.
I do agree that larger rotors are best but the drilling on my stock-sized rotors certainly help cool them off faster. I have felt stock rotors doing brake jobs and minutes later they are still scalding but seconds after stopping my car I can touch and hold the rotors with no problems. Anything you do to pull heat out of the rotor will help it.
I do agree that larger rotors are best but the drilling on my stock-sized rotors certainly help cool them off faster. I have felt stock rotors doing brake jobs and minutes later they are still scalding but seconds after stopping my car I can touch and hold the rotors with no problems. Anything you do to pull heat out of the rotor will help it.
#20
In my experience I have to agree with Wes. Most rotors that are drilled tend to warp or crack. Slotted if you must have something is the way to go. People have always seemed to think...."Well Porsche has theirs drilled." so its got be ok. The process of making cross drilled rotors is something of an art. Drilling after the rotors have been made is bad news, and thats what most places do.
I am interested in this kit, but only if it can come with standard rotors and not CD, or slotted.
PM'd you.
Joe
I am interested in this kit, but only if it can come with standard rotors and not CD, or slotted.
PM'd you.
Joe
#23
Originally Posted by HpiRally
Most rotors that are drilled tend to warp or crack. Slotted if you must have something is the way to go. People have always seemed to think...."Well Porsche has theirs drilled." so its got be ok. The process of making cross drilled rotors is something of an art. Drilling after the rotors have been made is bad news, and thats what most places do.
one more question, how does SS brake lines help?
#24
Originally Posted by Stueck
one more question, how does SS brake lines help?
While warping and cracking are a definite concern on the track, I also would assume that on the street, the drilled/ vented rotors ought to work just fine.
If I was racing, I would be very concerned about cracking and warping. But, you just don't get that kind of severe use on most public roads. Increased pad wear is a concern, but if you don't tailgate people to death and practice a little engine braking when coming to a stop, you can make your pads last a long time.
#30
Originally Posted by Stueck
i hope you dont mind me being curious this often, but what do you mean by cryogened?