toomanytoyz

I have it too, even after driving manuals for 15+ years. I've kind of adapted but it is definately an issue at low speeds. If there was a "fix" I'd be all over it.

 

Oh, its definitely there my friend. I've noticed this quite a bit in my MP3. I just don't let the revs drop down past 2200 in the low gears. And if I do, I'm engaging the clutch giving some gas and letting it out. No more bucking... Sorry for reviving this once more

Chris

 

Ive experienced bucking when in 2nd or 1st gear... it happens as soon as I start to let go of the gas. But its much worst in 1st. Being stuck in traffic is like dancing a jig.

 

I recently got a p5 and my experiance with it has been that it does now and then seem to rock (or jump) on me when i'm stock in rush hour traffic on my way into Toronto (damn traffic, damn DVP!!!!). Sorry as I was saying, I was told once that I should avoid going into first unless i'm at a dead stop, so i find that when i need to slow down and speed up I end up riding the clutch (sorta like when starting up in first) to keep the accel smooth.


If mazda does have a fix for this problem I would LOVE IT.

iggi

 

If you'd all bought an Automatic P5 like me you wouldn't have this 'problem' to complain about (but I know, friends don't let friends drive Automatics).

Anyways, having driven enough 5 speed cars over the years, I believe I can relate to this phenomenon, and I suspect it has just as much to do with driving style and shift points as it does with vehicle engineering.

 

ive only drivin the car 700 miles, but ehre are my observations:

(this only applys to being in second)

Bucking occurs when you just let off the gas completely, no brake applied.

No bucking when you gradually release the gas, but never are quite off it.

No bucking when you let off the gas and apply the brake.



I had the bucking, so now i just do either of those, and when it gets to low rpms i clutch in.

 

and posted the fix here

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/sho...&threadid=9901

 

I noticed this problem was a bit excesive. The last time I experienced this was a Fiat Spyder with worn motor mounts. Acted the same way as my P5.

I think the P5 has two problems. One as you guys said is the ECU/mixture/intake plumbing. The other is soft mounts.

Has anyone tryed poly motor mounts?

I did take off the intake plumbing from the air box forward and GREATLY improved the problem. This suggest there is an intake/mixture issue. The motor still moves too much, so I may try the poly motor mounts next.

 

Whoa Nelly!!!
Perhaps you may wish to consider an alternative:
If you just happen to be a ****-kickin', line-dancin', PBR-swillin', "cowboy", then the Pro may be the next best thing to a Mechanical Bull!
Yee-Haw

 

This is a really long thread, but I don't know if anyone has mentioned this.

There are two things that I put in my car that helped this problem IMMENSELY.

Kartboy Shifter Bushing
Sparkco Spark Plug Wires

If you don't have these, don't bore me with some long winded comment about how they can or cannot help. I am just speaking from personal experience, that the little my car DID do this, it was greatly reduced by stiffening up the transmission, and providing "cleaner" power via the spark plug wires. Now I don't think I could get my car to buck if I tried.

Also, ... before I actually got my P5, the dealer let me have a different P5 for about a week and a half. This car was MUCH worse bucking than the one that I ended up getting. The possibly coincidental detail was the shifter in the loaner was really loose. I could move it in a circle about an inch in diamter without ever engaging any springs or gates.

 

Whoa Nelly!!!
Perhaps you may wish to consider an alternative:
If you just happen to be a ****-kickin', line-dancin', PBR-swillin', "cowboy", then the Pro may be the next best thing to a Mechanical Bull!
Yee-Haw, Buckaroos....

 

I think the Protege has very soft motor mounts, probably to soak up any excess vibration and not transmit it into the chassis. It can be driven real smoothly with practice but all it takes is a bad release on the clutch with the wrong engine speed or lugging it along at too low a speed for the gear you're in and then you get gobs of rubbery/rockin'/buckin'. No fun at all.

 

Yes I drove a fiat 124 I think 1978 that did did the same thing,
but if I remember correctly the cable was not hooked to the engine like ours it was hooked to the firewall, granted the engine was 90 degrees different than ours, but still...

and my fix made the car driveable...

you could try it, it costs you nothing and about 5 minutes,
or perhaps someone will make an oblong throttle body pulley
that would cost 200+$ and take a few hours labor to put on.

as far as the steering thing goes, that might be ok if you took off the tires and put the car on railroad tracks, and you would probably also get that well deserved darwin award...

 

i know that this thread is old but is everyone still having trouble with the buckling?
i know i do in 1st and 2nd but i use the clutch to get rid of that.
has mazda fixed this problem yet?