Jackelope

Ok, i'm starting to get over the fear of old women pulling out in front of me so.... now that I have a MSP i can keep, i have some questions:

What should I get done at 60k? (dont have the owners manual)
What kind of things do I need to do/avoid with a turbo motor?
Any other tidbits I should know... thanks

and i've read the http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/ - just want to make sure I havent missed anything

Roddimus Prime

I haven't read the faq so I'm sure most of this will be repeated.

1. After long sessions of continuous boosting you should allow the engine to run an extra 35-45s before shutting the car off. This is not a big deal on the msp's but a good idea if you're a stickler for things like this.

2. TURBO APPROVED OILS, I highly recommend Royal Purple 5w-30 oil. Use this oil and check it at 3K miles. Mine was usually changed every 4500miles since the oil never gunked up. If you choose an oil MAKE 100% CERTAIN it says on the bottle approved for use in turbos.

3. 60K service SHOULD consist of a timing belt change and the other 30K requirements. Macdaddy and i have discussed this and timing belt is not a big deal. The belts last a long time and since the head is non-interference there is no damage if it breaks. (the car will not be driveable though.). If you are planning on removing the belt for something like cams or gears it would be a good idea to go ahead and swap on a new one.

4. DO NOT TRY BOOSTING IN TOO HIGH OF A GEAR!!! Always downshift if you plan on flooring it. Crusining at 2500rpms in 5th gear is about 40mph...DO NOT floor the pedal and hang on. This is very bad for your rods. I same the same thing on the superchargers...."drop a gear and dissappear".

5. keep your tires rotated every 3K miles and balanced every 6K

6. Be careful about adding fancy gear lubes to your manual trans. I believe the differential requires specific gear oil for the LSD to function properly. Using different fluids may cause LSD problems.

7. The MSP is not a drag racer. You will shatter your diff. It's a known problem area. Just enjoy it's handling and rolling launches!

8. First chance you get ditch those plastic intercooler pipes for some metal pipes. MAKE SURE THEY FIT WELL. The plastic pipes swell (causing loss of boost) and they are prone to splitting. Also the exhaust is a HUGE starting point when modding. If youur turbo cant spin it can't spool. I believe Corksport is making an "s-pipe" for $240 and that coupled with their powerseries exhaust ($550) would be a full turbo back exhaust for $800 and a HUGE gain.

Jackelope

woohoo - knew you would buzz in - ok..

1.) I do this... when I can
2) dealer put in 5w20 - ok for now?
3) I figured i would go ahead and change the belt out
4) "check" - that's what I do..
5) "check" - rotate about once a month
6) "check"
7) I usually roll to around 10-15, then stomp it, which buries it to 6k REALLY QUICK (b/c of the light flywheel?)
8) did you hardpipe "issue" get resolved? - explain the exhaust better - a downpipe (same as the "s" pipe?) - i need to get under my car and look at this (might learn something)

Roddimus Prime

if I'm not mistaken the car runs 5w-30....5w-20 is NOT a good idea this can cause leaks since the clearances of your engine were made for 30W oil, once those tolerances are opened up with the original 30w and you switch to a 20W you lower the amount of oil pressure you have and with the oil flowing faster through the engine now it has less time to pick up heat before it's moved on. Just FYI, I worked for over a year at the largest quick lube in the southeast and had to go to "oil school"....pretty lame but we learned all about this. The dealer will lie to you because they made a mistake. If you start getting leaks or oil pressure problems I know why.

I have left the hardpipe issue to TitaniumMSP to resolve on his own. Commonly, YES, a downpipe is the cast piece from the back of the turbo "down" to the exhaust. HOWEVER, on the msp's due to tight constraints the "dp" has to make an "S" shape to mount up to the stock "J-pipe" which people just call the "downpipe". here's the order and flow of things...

manifold
turbo
downpipe (s-pipe)
J-pipe (downpipe)
cat-back

Jackelope

So, it would be safest to change my oil (again!) back to 5w30 - and thanks for clearing up the exhaust, so what's replaced on mine is probably the "Jpipe" and the muffler... and wife has made a deal with me -- pay off a "major" bill, get something for my car - woohoo!

Jackelope

Looked through the papers I got w/ the car, it's been using 5w20 since it was born, no need in changing the bottle

Roddimus Prime

I hate dealerships/pwners who don't know what oil to put in their own cars. It's like the most simple of all maintaince and they somehow manage to screw it up. Luckily on the newer cars they have the oil weight listed on the cap.

Jackelope

so whatcha saying? i should change it anyway?

JDM-P5

Matty,
"drop a gear and dissappear".
I'm stealing that quote...k thnx!!

Jackelope

Hey, i was gonna steal that quote! oh well, snooze and lose.

escortlvr

Actually the FS motor is an interference motor to a point. Timing belt is a must every 60k or so. It's a belt, it stretches, causing slight timing movemoents losing fuel mileage and performance in the process, if it gets worn to the point of slipping a tooth, I wouldn't say your done but you'll know and you need to turn the car off right away when it starts running like crap, none of this peg-leg it home or you won't have a motor left lol . When you or "they" do your oil changes, have them fill the filter up with oil too before they put it on. I recommend using 20w-50 if you live in the southern states as it's the best viscosity for turbos.

Jackelope

I'm gonna call today or tomorrow to setup an appointment to get my 60k checkup - and get the belt changed, and get that annoying "clunk" fixed in the suspension