First Oil Change
November-29th-2001, 12:39 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
First Oil Change
Hey Guys I got my first oil change today at 1092 miles. Was this too early? I was wondering how difficult this is to do myself. I bought ramps and all but this rain made me take to to a quicke lube place. Do you have to remove anything in order to get to the filter? I am worried that they did not put everything back in place. Is there such thing as break-in oil?
November-29th-2001, 01:09 AM
#2
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Waukesha, WI
Posts: 95
Whoa, usually the first 5,000 miles you should leave the oil alone . When the engine parts are put together to make the new engine they're solid, but they aren't quite cured yet. Weird stuff happens as the metal solidifies, and could lead to warped parts. There are special chemicals that most manufacturers put in the oil to prevent this, including Mazda. Your dealer should have told you this!
I'm not sure if this will really hurt your engine in the long-run, but I'd call someone who knows, like the head tech.
I'm not sure if this will really hurt your engine in the long-run, but I'd call someone who knows, like the head tech.
November-29th-2001, 03:07 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 381
I've always heard it's a good idea to change at about the first 1,000. During the break-in, a bit more engine wear occurs as part of the break-in process. Get rid of the shavings with an early first oil change.
November-29th-2001, 07:28 AM
#5
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 126
oil
Most manufacturers now recommend that you leave yor oil in for the first 5k miles. Factory fil poil is usually detergent free 10W-30. This allows all your seals and rings to "seat" properly.
The manual recommends changing every 5k and that's what I do. I did mine about 500 miles early just because it was getting very cold and I wanted to get my 5W-30 Synth Blend in there for easier cold startups.
Also, the days of "metal shavings" floating aroud your engine initially are pretty much gone. Modern engines are built very well, they are also run in a bit at the factory.
Either way, I doubt you did any real damage, and I wouldn't fret about it.
I usually do my own changes at home on ramps, but the factory oil filter is a bear to get off. I brought my Valvoline DuraBlend 5W-30 and a Bosch filter to my local gaage who did the change for $15. Well worth it since I could hang out and watch and they checked my gear oil, antifreeze, etc, as well.
DuraBlend: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ....asp?Product=4
The manual recommends changing every 5k and that's what I do. I did mine about 500 miles early just because it was getting very cold and I wanted to get my 5W-30 Synth Blend in there for easier cold startups.
Also, the days of "metal shavings" floating aroud your engine initially are pretty much gone. Modern engines are built very well, they are also run in a bit at the factory.
Either way, I doubt you did any real damage, and I wouldn't fret about it.
I usually do my own changes at home on ramps, but the factory oil filter is a bear to get off. I brought my Valvoline DuraBlend 5W-30 and a Bosch filter to my local gaage who did the change for $15. Well worth it since I could hang out and watch and they checked my gear oil, antifreeze, etc, as well.
DuraBlend: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ....asp?Product=4
November-29th-2001, 09:18 AM
#6
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Regina, SK, CA
Posts: 147
Synthetic blends are a waste of money. A typical "blend" is 15% synthetic base stock and 85% dino base stock. The prices of these blends is typically right in the middle of the companies dino oil and their full synthetic. If you want to go with a blend, you are better off buying 2 litres of synthetic and 2 litres of dino oil and dumping them both in your engine. If you want the best in protection go with a full synthetic (amsoil and mobil 1 are generally regarded as being the best).
Once I am out of my apartment and into my house I'll start using Mobil 1 in my Pro and changing it myself. Until then it gets Mazda oil.
Once I am out of my apartment and into my house I'll start using Mobil 1 in my Pro and changing it myself. Until then it gets Mazda oil.
November-29th-2001, 12:12 PM
#7
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 126
true
Very true, and I should have mentioned more about this but didn't want to wander off-topic.
In my 2 years of Passat turbo ownership, I read more about oil and how it interacts with your engine then I could ever remember.
From my research , I learned that for most engines, running full Synth too early can cause the same problems as chaning your oil too early (poorly seated rings, etc.) The general concensus was that you shouldn't go to a full Synth too early with most people waiting until 12k-15k miles.
I intend to use Mobil1 Full Synthetic every 5k on my Protege just like I did with my Passat. I just don't want to do it until 12k-15k. Normally I would just get regular, Mobil 1 Dino, but the DuraBlend was on sale for only a few cents more so I bought that instead. I figured it couldn't hurt anything.
Hope that clarifies.
In my 2 years of Passat turbo ownership, I read more about oil and how it interacts with your engine then I could ever remember.
From my research , I learned that for most engines, running full Synth too early can cause the same problems as chaning your oil too early (poorly seated rings, etc.) The general concensus was that you shouldn't go to a full Synth too early with most people waiting until 12k-15k miles.I intend to use Mobil1 Full Synthetic every 5k on my Protege just like I did with my Passat. I just don't want to do it until 12k-15k. Normally I would just get regular, Mobil 1 Dino, but the DuraBlend was on sale for only a few cents more so I bought that instead. I figured it couldn't hurt anything.
Hope that clarifies.
November-29th-2001, 01:30 PM
#9
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 126
Passat
I liked my Passat a lot, with some reservations. It was a '99 GLS 5,-spd Turbo. Black over black cloth. I leased it fo r2 years and it was mostly reliable and always fast and comfy. The new ones are even softer handling though with a few more ponies. I don't like the redesign much... too much chrome and ugly tailights. The dimensions tgot bloated IMO.
My web site has some links to discussions with more direct comparisons to the Protege5. Though it's really apples vs. oranges. I LOVE my P5!
www.nomadcom.com/dave
Here is my canned Passat shpeil that I wrote a while ago..
My web site has some links to discussions with more direct comparisons to the Protege5. Though it's really apples vs. oranges. I LOVE my P5!
www.nomadcom.com/dave
Here is my canned Passat shpeil that I wrote a while ago..
I traded in my '99 with just over 40k last month. It was a lease.
LIST OF PROBLEMS:
+++++++++++++++
• Driver's side mirror heater element replaced under warranty. I left it on for about 20k miles, the VW mirror is not meant to stay on all the time and the manual is unclear on the subject, they should fix that documentation to be clearer about when it is on and off.
• Passenger's side, rear seat back latch replaced under warranty. I yanked it clean out when I had stuff in the back-seat, and was using the latch as a handle, pulling the seat-back forward, against the weight of a cooler that was leaning against it.
--warranty ends---
• Light bulb behind Climate Control goes out. Easily fixed by me bulb cost = $1.10, you just pull out the center fan dial and the bulb is right there. Dealer wanted to "pull the dash." Idiots don't even read their own TSB's.
• (33k) Headlight switch mysteriously burns out. Dealer says tough luck, on national backorder and $180. I buy one from a Clubb5er for $50.
• Radio reception is very poor. Dealer says it's a corroded antenna wire, a design flaw that has been corrected in B5.5's. Will they fix it free? No, of course not.
• Some wear on the drivers door sill. I have managed to scuff off some paint and even put a tiny tear in the weather stripping by dragging my feet across it repeatedly. I've never had this happen on any other car before.
• By 40k, and despite my ****-retentive car care, the interior is looking a bit tired. Squeaks and rattles abound.
• At 40k, brakes were still ok, tires were replaced at 35k. I never experienced any of the oil leaks that some have. I replaced my oil with Mobil1 Synthetic every 5-7k after the "free" services ended (20k)
• My biggest complaint was a terrible local dealer that forced me to travel over an hour away to a deccent one, and the short warranty (now it's longer).
THINGS I LOVED:
+++++++++++++++
• The luxurious feel, the way it looked, the fabulous engine, it's highway manners, the VW-community (www.vwvortex.com & www.clubb5.com)
THINGS I DISLIKED:
+++++++++++++++
• The wallowy suspension, the crappy stock tires, the price, the awful cloth quality (interior), squeak and rattles, groans and moans, squeaks (get the picture?) the dealers, the warranty (then 2/24k)
You MUST become a member at the Vortex if you own a VW. It is a HUGE, knowledgeable group of people with tons of information. They can answer any VW question, and help you with any VW problem.
LIST OF PROBLEMS:
+++++++++++++++
• Driver's side mirror heater element replaced under warranty. I left it on for about 20k miles, the VW mirror is not meant to stay on all the time and the manual is unclear on the subject, they should fix that documentation to be clearer about when it is on and off.
• Passenger's side, rear seat back latch replaced under warranty. I yanked it clean out when I had stuff in the back-seat, and was using the latch as a handle, pulling the seat-back forward, against the weight of a cooler that was leaning against it.
--warranty ends---
• Light bulb behind Climate Control goes out. Easily fixed by me bulb cost = $1.10, you just pull out the center fan dial and the bulb is right there. Dealer wanted to "pull the dash." Idiots don't even read their own TSB's.
• (33k) Headlight switch mysteriously burns out. Dealer says tough luck, on national backorder and $180. I buy one from a Clubb5er for $50.
• Radio reception is very poor. Dealer says it's a corroded antenna wire, a design flaw that has been corrected in B5.5's. Will they fix it free? No, of course not.
• Some wear on the drivers door sill. I have managed to scuff off some paint and even put a tiny tear in the weather stripping by dragging my feet across it repeatedly. I've never had this happen on any other car before.
• By 40k, and despite my ****-retentive car care, the interior is looking a bit tired. Squeaks and rattles abound.
• At 40k, brakes were still ok, tires were replaced at 35k. I never experienced any of the oil leaks that some have. I replaced my oil with Mobil1 Synthetic every 5-7k after the "free" services ended (20k)
• My biggest complaint was a terrible local dealer that forced me to travel over an hour away to a deccent one, and the short warranty (now it's longer).
THINGS I LOVED:
+++++++++++++++
• The luxurious feel, the way it looked, the fabulous engine, it's highway manners, the VW-community (www.vwvortex.com & www.clubb5.com)
THINGS I DISLIKED:
+++++++++++++++
• The wallowy suspension, the crappy stock tires, the price, the awful cloth quality (interior), squeak and rattles, groans and moans, squeaks (get the picture?) the dealers, the warranty (then 2/24k)
You MUST become a member at the Vortex if you own a VW. It is a HUGE, knowledgeable group of people with tons of information. They can answer any VW question, and help you with any VW problem.
November-29th-2001, 02:48 PM
#10
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Calgary Alberta, Canada
Posts: 54
I really do not see how leaving the oil in for the first 5k would make any difference than changing it after 1k. You are replacing the oil with oil. I think that what hi5 did was the right thing to do. I usually change my oil every 4 months or 2000 miles which ever comes first. Oil changes are so cheap, why not keep the engine clean.
November-29th-2001, 03:04 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks Bean Bandit. We'll see how long the engine lasts I guess. I was planning to run this baby to the ground. What is done is done. There are so many different stories about this issue. I agree, oil changes are so cheap. I mean the local walmart can do it for 15 bucks. I tend to agree oil is oil. I know honda claims not to remove it but mazda does not state anything.
November-29th-2001, 04:23 PM
#12
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 126
Why stop there? Why not change it every 1000 miles? Or every 500 miles?!
Heck... It's a crapshoot either way. Do what YOU feel comfortable with.
But I have to say, in my opinion, changing every 2k miles is not only wasteful and unnecessary according to EVERY study ever done on the issue, it also contributes to enviromental pollution. Not to mention that you are unnecessarily handing "big oil" your hard earned money.
OPEC invented the "3000-mile oil change interval" not auto manufacturers. Almost everyone recommends 5k now. In Europe, VW recommends 7500 and tried to do that here too. But Americans were to brainwashed by OPEC and Jiffy Lube that they wouldn't comply!
Again, just my opinion, naturally, you should do what's right for you... it's your money. But remember... all that "used" oil needs to go somewhere.
Heck... It's a crapshoot either way. Do what YOU feel comfortable with.
But I have to say, in my opinion, changing every 2k miles is not only wasteful and unnecessary according to EVERY study ever done on the issue, it also contributes to enviromental pollution. Not to mention that you are unnecessarily handing "big oil" your hard earned money.
OPEC invented the "3000-mile oil change interval" not auto manufacturers. Almost everyone recommends 5k now. In Europe, VW recommends 7500 and tried to do that here too. But Americans were to brainwashed by OPEC and Jiffy Lube that they wouldn't comply!
Again, just my opinion, naturally, you should do what's right for you... it's your money. But remember... all that "used" oil needs to go somewhere.
December-3rd-2001, 06:27 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Toronto
Posts: 401
Originally posted by Bean Bandit
I really do not see how leaving the oil in for the first 5k would make any difference than changing it after 1k. You are replacing the oil with oil. I think that what hi5 did was the right thing to do. I usually change my oil every 4 months or 2000 miles which ever comes first. Oil changes are so cheap, why not keep the engine clean.
I really do not see how leaving the oil in for the first 5k would make any difference than changing it after 1k. You are replacing the oil with oil. I think that what hi5 did was the right thing to do. I usually change my oil every 4 months or 2000 miles which ever comes first. Oil changes are so cheap, why not keep the engine clean.
Alex
