Lazlo123

Just need some ideas... I've never had a place to change the oil myself before, and now i do. So what's the best way to get the car in the air? Ramps? Jack stands? Just jacks? Jack it up and set the wheels back down on some blocks of wood? What do you do-it-yourselfers do?

Thanks!

goofinoff

On my 99 LX, I don't even have to raise it. Just feel around underneath from the front passenger side for the oil pan, should be a 19mm drain plug on the back side of the pan. I use a low profile drain pan, there's only a gallon of oil in there. I can reach the filter by working from the rear passenger side of the engine, my filter is located behind the alternator, with the end of the filter that you unscrew facing the firewall. If you can get off that first filter, you'll have it made, just don't over tighten the future ones ( hand tight ) and they'll come off easy every time. Good luck

goofinoff

By the way, the filter can be reached from the top, not underneath the motor.

Lazlo123

Is this for the 1.6L?

kmaalfiisa

goofinoff. thats a nice pic. can i have it too?

usually when i change the oil, i put the jak under the passenger side, right under the frame. then i jak it up, get under the car, unscrew the oil pan bolt, (first put a bucket or something to catch the oil) when it is done draining, hand screw the bolt back in. if you do it too tight with a tool, you could break or crack the oil pan. this would be very bad.

then i unscrew the oil filter (with a bucket under this also) dispose of the old filter, or if auto zone can recycle them (dont know if they do) then try that..

remember to put some oil on the seal of the filter when screwing it back in.. after that, you can pour the oil into the proper oil hole on the cam drive cap (it is a 1.6 dohc right?)
screw oil cap back on
then your finished

Lazlo123

So you just leave the car on the jack? And only make the oil drain plug hand tight? Or tighten it up a little more? And yep, its for the 1.6L DOHC. Thanks for the replies

goldstar

I run my car up on ramps. Then it's easy to drain the oil and change the filter. According to the FSM, torque the drain plug to 22-30 ft/lbs (30-41 N/m). Use a new sealing washer and DO NOT just make the drain plug hand tight. Also, DO NOT go under the car if it's just supported by a jack. USE jack stands or ramps, otherwise serious injury or death can occur.

You're getting some bad advice here!

Lazlo123

I like the ramps idea... i think i might invest in some of those... i don't have a torque wrench.. i suppose i should invest in one of those too...

goofinoff

Hey man........ I hope you're not referring to my advice as bad (or I'll change my Avatar to a fat lady) Read my post , I said tighten the FILTER hand tight.
BTW, I agree - never trust a jack only.

goldstar

No, I had read your post and therefore, of course, I wasn't referring to it. My statement was in response to kmaalfiisa's post.

Happy Motoring!

kmaalfiisa

whoa whoa whoa whoa!!

i normally use my dads hydroulic jack and then the jack that comes with the car..

this can be found under the carpet in the trunk on the right side.

sorry i havn't mentioned i used 2
still may be dangerous but (lol) dangers my dogs middle initial

i cant help myself going to this thread just to look at that girls ***

Lazlo123

Besides not burning your hands on hot engine parts and oil, is it generally better to change the oil from a cold engine rather than a hot one?

distance2

Follow the instructions on the filter and as for the drain plug, hand tight will loosen , oil will start to drain, engine will blow. Just kidding, just don't overtighten.

distance2

Oh ya, Ramps are the best , don't waste your time with jack stands as ramps are super quick. If you have your car lowered, get some rino ramps which are longer and can be driven up at a much less incline. I thionk there called rino

goofinoff

You want it warm to really get the best job, plus it will drain faster. You can do it after you get home from work, just open the hood right away when you get back, and get all your supplies ready and wait about a half hour, everything should be cool enough by then. You can even take a spin around the block if the car is cold right now, just long enough to get that oil warm, open the hood right away, and by the time you get set-up on your jack stands, you be good to go. In addition to saving money
(I buy my filters and oil on sale - costs me less than 5 bucks to do an oil change for a Fram filter and good oil) there is a satisfaction you get by doing it yourself, and you can check the rest of the engine for anything unusual while your at it. Get down and dirty and familiar with that Mazda, you'll start buying tools and books and save money doing repairs yourself. Now go change your oil - and have fun !!