3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3 General/Maintenance Discussion for 1999-2003.5 Models Only (BJ Chassis)

2000 1.8L vs 2.0L?

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Old February-5th-2002, 08:48 AM
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2000 1.8L vs 2.0L?

Has anyone compared the 1.8L from the 2000 protege to the new 2.0L? Is there a noticable difference in power when comparing the two cars. Also is the 2.0L as smooth as the 1.8L. As you may have guessed I own a 2000 LX with the 1.8L. I am considering trading it in for a new 2002. Is the power increase worth it or should I stick with mine until the next generation comes out? One last question is, what is my car worth as a trade in. It's a Canadian 2000 lx with the touring package (ABS, 15 ich alloy wheels, moonroof etc) and has 31000 kms on it.


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Old February-5th-2002, 09:32 AM
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I'd keep yours if it is only the power you want. The power increase of the 2.0 is offset by the 100 extra pounds it has to carry around. Where the 2001+ is superior is the suspension and brakes. Car and Driver said the 2001 ES (GT in Canada) has better handling traits than the 2000 due to the stiffer structure (that extra 100 lbs).

As far as trade it goes, i'd try selling it privately if you want a 2002. Dealers will give you under market value for your car so they can sell it at market value for a profit.

Best of luck with whatever you decide!
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Old February-5th-2002, 10:59 AM
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The 1.8L FP engine is the same as the 2.0L FS engine except for the 9mm? shorter crank throw. Given the depreciation on a new car, it doesn't make a lot of sense to trade yours in on a 2002. There isn't that big of a difference. You can upgrade the handling and brakes on your car to MP3 standards for less than the cost difference of trading your car in for a new one. Personally, I like some of the interior, and the front bumper cover, better on the '99-'00's, but I like the rear disc brakes and the Nardi style steering wheel better on the new Protégés.
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Old February-5th-2002, 11:10 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. The only reason I am thinking of trading in on a newer one is because of a problem I have with my 2000 lx. A while ago I broke a wheel on a hugh pothole. I replaced the alloy but still have a vibration on the highway. I have had the wheels, tires checked and balanced and have also had the dealer check all the suspension peices. They didn't find anything. They have taken it for a drive and know it vibrates. The thing is that it is still there when I swap the 15 inch alloys for 14 inch winter wheels and tires. It's not quite as bad but still annoying enough to make me mad driving it on the highway. So I'm pretty well fed up with it and may just get another one.
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Old February-5th-2002, 11:17 AM
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That's a common problem on Chicago streets also. Was the wheel that was damaged on the front? Assuming it was, have you had an alignment done since replacing the wheel? Was the new wheel and tire assembly balanced. Just making sure you got the easy stuff out of the way first. If you've done all that, I would suspect something bent or damaged in the rack and pinion steering. Have the dealer check that out.
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Old February-5th-2002, 11:39 AM
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It was the front right wheel. Yeah I had the new wheel and tire balanced along with the others a couple of times at two different tire places. But like I said I have a completely different set of wheels and tires for the winter and it still does it. Just not as much because the wheels are smaller. The dealer said he checked all the suspension and nothing was bent. Not sure about the rack and pinion steering. That could be a possibility. I'm going to have my 32000 service soon, so I will give them another try fixing it.
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Old February-5th-2002, 12:46 PM
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i would check your tie rod. also, just for craps and giggles, check the rotor and insure is its not warped at all.
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Old February-5th-2002, 09:06 PM
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1.8l vs 2.0l

hmmmm I didn't find much of a difference.

When I went for my 64k checkup, I was talkin with the service guy about the new cars, etc etc... he said that the 2002, is better than my '99 1.8l. He gave me a automatic, and told me to take it for a boot. I still think the pickup in the 1.8 is much better/faster.. maybe thats cuz I drive a manual...hmm dunno... but I find the interior of my '99 has more space around my legs.. it seems a little 'cramped' in the new cars...
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Old February-5th-2002, 09:50 PM
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Originally posted by KrisA
I'd keep yours if it is only the power you want. The power increase of the 2.0 is offset by the 100 extra pounds it has to carry around. Where the 2001+ is superior is the suspension and brakes. Car and Driver said the 2001 ES (GT in Canada) has better handling traits than the 2000 due to the stiffer structure (that extra 100 lbs).
FWIW most of the weight difference is due to sound deadening, not the chassis bracing. The amount of bracing added to the 01+ is not very significant (not as much as, say, a 1994 Miata vs. a 1990 Miata).

I've driven a 2001 ES and the steering response seemed a little sharper, but this may be due largely to the lower profile tires. The difference in power is not noticeable at all. The primary difference in the 99-00 and 01-02 when you drive them back-to-back is the noise level; the 01+ is significantly quieter. Also, the doors shut with a "whamp" rather than a "bang"

IMHO the difference between the cars is not significant enough to warrant trading it in on the basis of performance alone.
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Old February-5th-2002, 09:54 PM
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I slid into a curb last year in Montreal and screwed up my oil pan, exhaust pipe comming down from engine, and control arm (right side). I slid on some salt, dirt, and crap that was not swept up in the middle of an intersection when going to make a u-turn. Anyways, it was like being on marbles. Missed a light post by 6 inches. My right wheel and bottom of engine hit the curb. It was a sickening sound. I though for sure I destroyed the car and ripped the bumper off. When I got out, I noticed that the right wheel was bent towards the rear of the car, almost touching the back of the wheel well. There was also oil leaking from the oil pan. It was close by my house so I drove the car home slowly and got it towed to a garage the next day. Anyways, they fixed everything. I kept the old wheel and tire. The lip was scratched up a little and it needed to be rebalanced. The guy showed me on the balancing machine...there was a slight wobble. I had to get the oxygen sensor replaced and the oil pan and pick up as well. Total damage+ 1600$ canadian. The pipe and the oxygen sensor were almost 900 bucks combined. I looked into cheaper but there were no aftermarket oem parts.

Anyways, get them to check the control arms and everything. My car is still just as smooth as when I bought it. No problems at all after the repairs. I'm probably going to get the wheel fixed when I replace the RE92's. One guy said it would cost 100 bucks to re-align the rim. I'm asiming they will polish up the lip that is scratched up too.
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