Patrique

Well, after doing lotsa reading, and deciding that the Turbo is just too expensive, I think I've decided to go the NA route.
Already have the CAI and MazdaSpeed Sport Exhaust, and was thinking of kinda doing a MazdaSpeed P5. Going with the MS intake and exhaust cams, and the MS high comp pistons....
Think the cams and pistons should add another 25-40 hp to my set up..... Is that about right???? That would make my ride around 160 to 175 engine HP..... That'd be enough for me I think Not trying to go overboard.

Anyone have any good sources for MS parts and service in Toronto Canada???

Any idea what the labor time involved with the pistons are?? I cant see the cams being too much??

As far as the cam gears go.... I think they may be for someone who has a little more tuning ability than me

Thnx again

Patrique

Patrique

Nope, not that mechanically inclined
May just have to save up for that Turbo after all. Damn.
Or maybe I'll just do the cams. That should give me at least another 15 or so HP.

Thnx

Patrique

Patio

yeah go NA if your looking for speed

Farsyde

my preference is the turbo package. While it is expensive (around 2000-4000) it's definately the easier of the two to install yourself, IMO. Also with the turbo you can adjust it to you mood for the day. Want to tear up the road, up the boost. Want to just get to work, bring the boost down to 1-2psi. If you pick up a boost controller (can be $700 for lots of features) you can change the boost level at a stop light when that jacka** revs his focus next to you.

I listed most of the parts that i think you would need for a turbo setup here Turbo list

Depending on the application and just the kind of power you are looking for, it can be cheaper or much more expensive.

Oh yeah, I'd love a lightweight flywheel. Have the pro rev to red so fast it's like havin a rally car

P5 DO OR DIE

I kinda want to go NA just for drivability issues, but a turbo does seem to be a easier solution for us mechanical idiots(me). I find it odd that no one has come up with a supercharger, or even tried.
Just my .02 cents

ARD MP5

You should just by the FS-ZE, sell you DE, and buy a haltech for the ZE. That should get you to 200 with good tuning and all the bolt-ons.

Rishie

That's what I would do if in your position. It won't cost too much and it will be a solid setup.

Remember you'll get pretty decent money for your new DE motor. Sell it and your ecu to a 1.6 guy or something.

ProtegeES

1-I don't know what your smoking, but you will never get that amount of power with those mods.
2-FI is always cheaper than N/A
3- Torque kills the clutch, not HP so if you are going N/A your stock clutch should be able to handle more than 170 HP as long as the torque remains low.

jbennett@rc.edu

1. Can't I swap parts in my stock 2.0L instead of swapping out for a FS-ZE engine?

2. Will I see the power from the Cams and Pistons without a piggyback ECU tuner, or a different ECU?

3. I almost traded my Pro in last week and bought a A4 1.8T, but I came to my sences, gentlemen of the Protege club, please forgive me. I will not think this way again.

Doomer_MP3

Lets not forget that the FS-ZE is actually rated at 170ps in Japan, which is about 160 SAE hp here. Just a minor difference but a difference nonetheless.

Either way you could be one of the first and try a Greddy eManage chip for your NA tuning that is about $500-$600. It doesn't replace your stock ECU, but it runs after it and intercepts the ECU signals and does its own thing based on how you tune it.

Chris

Foster42

Actually you just program your fuel to the highest boost level and then your just not using that part of the map if you turn it down. Obviously there is more to tune too with FI, but its only a "longer" map, its 3 dimensional either way, vac or boost, this just adds boost.