paulp

My wife just got an 03. Being the master mechanic(that's what she calls me) I AM TIRED OF THE START UP ROD KNOCK. So since I am the new kid on the block, I have found a solution. USE A PUROLATOR. I have tried champ, the factory 6 hole,the oem 8 hole but not the 10 hole fram or wix. BUT I know what gets the oil lite to go out the fastest---PUROLATOR. TWO MORE ITEMS---Purolator is owned by Arvin Meritor-they make oem and aftermarket parts. Go to your local ADVANCE AUTO and get the AA6607 FILTER. This is basically a purolator in disguise.How do I know this--because the back of the advance catalogue says arvin meritor on it and the helpline is the same phone number that is in the purolator book. At advance, the purolator premium plus (L14612) is $4.98. The AA6607(advance) is $2.48. The internal design of the advance looks identical to the purolator-go figure.The external copies fram's "grip" filter except the advance is ALL GRIP MATERIAL. Advance even puts their filters BESIDE the fram. DON'T WORRY-THE ADVANCE IS NOT A FRAM-as I stated arvin meritor distributes the advance filter. FINAL POINT(AREN'T YOU GLAD)..MAZDA was one of 4 manuf. that gave a QUALITY AWARD TO PUROLATOR,for all of you afraid to use anything but the factory filter.Check it out..www.pureoil.com.OK GUYS AND GALS ..I AM NEW..LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK AND LETS GET RID OF THE KNOCK. ps-SORRY for the long post

Pete47

Hi Paulp. I'm new to all of this Mazda Protege5 stuff. Since your a mechanic, I have a few questions...

ON your subject about knock, what do you mean knock..., my car doesn't have a knock. Or maybe it does and I don't hear it because I'm use to the sound of an old 6cyl 1986 buick station wagon and this car sounds to new so I don't here it. LOL
If there is a knock how do I quite it down? (Is it buying that oil filter you recommended?)

Q#2. I wrote a thread about changing spark plugs, is this difficult in our MP5s? How do we do it?
Q#3. What else should we change in our vehicles when changing the spark plugs? My car has 36,500 miles on it. I brought it used a month ago with 35,400 miles I'm not sure if the dealer changed them and I don't want to chance it so I want to replace them and the wires my self.
Q#4 What else should I have changed in the car or plan to change soon with this specific mileage?

I'm sorry if I'm asking so many Question... But thats why I'm here at these forums, to find out how we can all help each other make are cars run and perform to its best.
Please read all my other thread posting to answer some of my question.
I appreciate all the help. Thank you.

paulp

PETE--SEE YOU LIVE IN DELTONA. I used to live there-orange city,deland etc. SMALL WORLD. Anyway,the knock I am talking about last about a second on start up and is caused by the lack of oil in the filter. the "anti drain back valve" in the filter doesn't seal totally and allows oil to drain out of the filter-thus a "dry" start for about a second-and the rod bearings rattling for about a second. It happens in a lot of cars and in a 4 cyl. mazda the "dry" noise is louder than most cars. Does not appear to be detrinmental to the engine..BUT..NO NOISE IS GOOD NOISE. The PUROLATOR SEEMS TO DRAIN BACK THE LEAST-WITH ALMOST INSTANT TURN OFF OF THE OIL LITE WHEN THE ENGINE IS STARTED. enough said-BUT an important issue.#2...Plugs are easy-socket wrench,spark plug socket and a long extention do to the common engine design. IMPORTANT..ALWAYS DO WHEN ENGINE IS COLD, AND LUBE THE TREADS WITH EITHER WD -40 OR THE OIL FROM YOUR DIP STICK. do NOT use anti seize compound. Screw in with the spark plug socket and extention only. After you get it started turn it in and out to make sure it feels SMOOTH-this means you are not cross treading the plug which will strip the threads in the head-bad news.Buy a torque wrench if you are not used to the FEEL of how tight to make the plugs. also- USE NGK PLUGS AND NEVER REGAP AND REUSE OLD PLUGS..BUY NEW.#3 I can almost bet they are the orig. plugs.CHANGE PLUGS ONLY-IF IT RUNS FINE AND NO MISFIRES YOU MAY BE ABLE TO GO TO THE NEXT PLUG CHANGE FOR WIRES. Rember-IF IT AIN'T BROKE-DON'T FIX IT.#4 air filter,anti freeze and check the BIBLE-THE OWNERS MANUAL

stealthscotty

There is another knock in the 2.0 motors often heard with a cold engine. Mazda put some sort of valve in the intake to modify air flow on a cold engine. It was really noticable on the early 3rd Gen cars(mine). They supposedly, planned to silence the noise somehow on later cars. I never heard how good a job they did.
Anyway, It is fairly pronounced in the 1st few seconds of running and the valve is disabled once the engine reaches low operating temp. It's no cause for concern.
I have noticed a little drain back noise but only when an oil change is over due. (see your other post, Pete)
I like Paulp's thinkin, too... especially that last part.

Pete47

Paulp and StealthScotty thank for the replies. Paulp? Where do I get that oil filter? You have MP5 to right? Whats the item # for that filter?
There are so many plugs out there, do you think its a good idea to buy thoese iridium plugs from NGK or should I stick to the normal ones? Should I change the wires as well? W/B

paulp

StealthScotty-YOUR ARE RIGHT..**** or wheels will give you trouble PETE-Advance auto for the ADVANCE/purolator filter. Check www.pureoil.com for locations to buy the PUROLATOR premimum plus.In deltona the old DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS were bought up by advance auto so you should have no problems with an advance filter-aa6607. STOCK NGK ...AND READ MY POST ON PLUGS AND WIRES......HAPPY FIRING

jimvt

I've had a very noticable rod knock since my '01 ES 2.0 was new...unfortunately, it has gotten much worse and I now have to repair or replace the motor! The car is now out of warranty and Mazda has said "tough luck". This is my first Mazda and definitely my last. Even with all the proper oil/filter changes and very little hard driving, this engine had a bad bearing. Very dissappointing. I did a lot of research before buying this car and never expected a lower engine failure.
Anyone else out there had a rod bearing go bad? Any advise on whether to repair or replace this engine? The head seems perfect...never burned a drop of oil. Does have 90k, but, feels young still.

Thanks
Jim