hey guys..

Does anyone know how much power the P5 gearbox can take safely? With a turbo going in even though it's only gonna be running at 6-7 psi, i ain't too happy about changing the gearbox or clutch or both....

Anyone know?

 

well since the clutch is gonna go is it ok to do the fly wheel as well? you know since i'm gonna be in there in the first place... or will that be too much?....

 

and one more thing...... i've been launching at 3500 will that still be safe with the turbo on?

 

so i suppose your gonna tell me how to avoid that? do i forget about the flywheel? don't even think of saying lsd..... now we're going into some psyko cash here....

 

the whole kit is gonna cost me around about $8000 AUS.
That's:

Custom Frontmount
T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo
Deltagate Wastegate (Single Flange Discharge)
Haltech E6K Standalone ECU
Autometer -30-0-30 PSI Boost Gauge
Custom Manifold

with install ofcourse..... these are just retail prices... i've actually got a few mates in the business that are gonna get me better prices.... should drop at least $1500......

don't have a big budjet to work on so it's gonna be tough, but i'll get there . i always get my way in the end.

 

like you said i really don't need lsd... i'll be getting heaps of wheelspin though...... I was just wondering if there was any other way to avoid it.....

 

i'll try the the tyres, i was going to get rims and tyres either way. if still too much wheelspin then i'll go lsd but that will definetly be even further down the track.

 

Hey Korr, just remember......if you increase the power of the motor....and then you make it so that the car will "hook up" better...as in less wheel spin and more GRAB AND GO...that is just that much more stress and strain on the gearbox......if you punish it enough....it will fail. Just something to keep in mind.

 

Thats an $8000 job going into the teens by the time i'm through with lsd gearbox etc... i think a little bit of wheelspin is ok..... looks good too . clutch i admit sounds logical, and the wheels are definetly in, engine mounts are still ok i think.... engine mounts expensive? in both parts and labour?

 

To add some infromation to my last post.....certainly you have heard of the TV show "the weakest link"?.....well if not....that aplies to our cars as well....

when we start modding them.....increasing the HP....racing them....putting more stress and strain on them than NORMALLY intended....pieces and parts fail prematurely....its the "nature of the beast".

so.....if you UP the quality and sturdiness of ALL the drive line except the tranny.....well....IT may end up being your weakest link. I think it would be preferable to have a clutch that wouldn't stand up to a LOT of abuse and have it wear out insted of having a clutch with superior holding power and grip, tires that are extra sticky and don't spin as much, beefed up axels, etc.... and end up with a busted tranny. In other words....don't make your weakest link one of the most expensive parts in the driveline.

Just something to think about Korr.....

 

There's a car you should checkout it the hot4s magazine car, project rsr. the thing had around about 180 - 190 kw atw and they didnt do anything to the drivetrain at all. it was running at 6 - 7 psi and this car is identical to ours in every aspect. Now they haven't had any problems at all, and i'm getting the EXACT setup. I'm pretty sure i wont run into too many probs but i was just being carefull, but if chucking in a new clutch is gonna have reprucusions all the way to the gearbox, well then i'll have to pass and live with the wheelspin.

Just a thought though.... the new mazdaspeed protege has got almost the same setup and is still using the same gearbox yeah? they have a heavyduty clutch. Anyway... i'm not too fussed, i have this unbelievable amount of luck things will go my way.... trust me.... i'll make them go my way .

Once again protege club has put in more info than mazda ever would... Thanks guys......

 

korr...if you are getting wheelspin....the clutch is hooking up just fine....cause if it weren't....it would be slipping and the wheels wouldn't be spinning.....

the whole thing is a balancing act. from the intake to the tires....to be able to get the VERY best performance form ANY car....everything has to match from start to finish. OBVIOUSLY everyone can't do that.....so we do the best with what we have resources for.

 

Motor mounts will help prevent wheel hop, and increase wheel spin. Wheel hop puts more stress on the driveline than almost anything else. An LSD will greatly improve your traction and 1/4 mile times.

 

A 6-7 PSI setup will be fine with your stock tranny but your clutch is going to fry. I found out the hard way. On your stock motor you can run 8 PSI though intercooled. What are you goign to use for fuel enrichment? Oh yeah THe turbo and our 1st gear do not get along I can be going along in first but if I dump the throttle my wheels will sit and spin. Get a ACT 2100 street disc though don't go all out for the 6 puck...every guy I have talked to with a 6 puck wish that they had gotten a street disc and almost all of them have had tranny problems due to too much clamping power on teh 6 puck.

 

I believe mazdamotorsports has poly motor mounts for about $150. Definitely worth the price if you're going turbo. I may be picking up some as well.