No oil pressure
January-6th-2005, 03:19 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 2
No oil pressure
I have a 99 Protege with a 1.6L that has 105,000 miles. I have had no problems with it since we bought it about 3.5 years ago. I change the oil regularly (3K-5K) and do not have to add any in-between. Recently, the oil light came on, but it was running fine so I tried to get it home, however, it died a mile from the house and would not start back up. I have since checked, drained and changed the oil (it was not low), put an new oil sending unit on it and started it, but it had a knock/tapping sound so I did not drive it. Also put an oil pressure gauge on it and got zero. We have pulled the valve covers to check the heads, timing belt, compression, oil quality... and all looked good. So, though very rare, we suspected a bad oil pump. We went to drop the oil pan and it appeared that the transmission would have to be pulled as well, something we did not want to tackle – so we took it to a local shop. They looked at the oil and did a little research that said engine failure was common in Protégé’s with over 100,000 miles, so they suggested a new engine. I would rather not do that, especially knowing the heads look good. Maybe the oil pan tube is clogged or broke. Any ideas or suggestions out there? Thx - kl
January-6th-2005, 04:19 PM
#2
Moderator/ Pocket Tuner
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 4,150
Originally Posted by kllindsey
They looked at the oil and did a little research that said engine failure was common in Protégé’s with over 100,000 miles, so they suggested a new engine.
Protege's are very reliable, and I have seen and heard of plenty of ZM-DE's with well over 100,000 miles. However if there was a failure due to starvation, then a new engine would be cheaper than a rebuild
January-7th-2005, 06:26 AM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 999
Yeah, but if it already siezed from oil starvation? Better off replacing. Get a short block and swap the head. (uh you only got one! 
)
'oil light came on. I checked the oil level and it was good so i kept on driving...'
You gotta' look in the mirror! [shaking head ruefully]
)'oil light came on. I checked the oil level and it was good so i kept on driving...'
You gotta' look in the mirror! [shaking head ruefully]
January-7th-2005, 09:23 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,111
Originally Posted by Phantom Cruiser
Okay, well if they said "your engine is seized...time for a new one" I could see that. But you know how these 'mechanics' are...
January-7th-2005, 09:49 AM
#7
I can has autox now?
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: ASC, GA
Posts: 3,381
My '92 protege has ~185,000 on it, still runs good, started smoking though 
, good thing is my father-in-law runs a machine shop, gonna help me fix it. Just can't talk him into helping w/ my new car... 
... says i don't need any more power.
, good thing is my father-in-law runs a machine shop, gonna help me fix it. Just can't talk him into helping w/ my new car... ... says i don't need any more power.
January-7th-2005, 03:27 PM
#8
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Thanks for the posts. I just need to get a short block and find somebody that will rebuid it in the Longview, TX area now. It sure is weird that the "head" looks good though with it being the weekest link. Thanks again - kl
January-10th-2005, 08:35 PM
#10
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Location: Omaha,Nebraska
Posts: 439
Originally Posted by Phantom Cruiser
Okay, well if they said "your engine is seized...time for a new one" I could see that. But you know how these 'mechanics' are...
January-11th-2005, 07:55 AM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 50
I have replaced my oil pump recently.. having NO oil pressure is a real worrey..
You CAN drop the oil pan without taking the trans off, but not the stifener plate between the pan and the block.
You can remove the oil pump by just removing all the bolts around it and the crank pully, it will pull straight off the side of the block without removing the stifener plate OR the pan if you dont want to ! (remember 4 bolts go into the pump from below so you do need to remove those, it may be well stuck on there too so you may need to tap it off with a hammer)
You may well find that the relief valve is stuck wide open for some reason..
You CAN drop the oil pan without taking the trans off, but not the stifener plate between the pan and the block.
You can remove the oil pump by just removing all the bolts around it and the crank pully, it will pull straight off the side of the block without removing the stifener plate OR the pan if you dont want to ! (remember 4 bolts go into the pump from below so you do need to remove those, it may be well stuck on there too so you may need to tap it off with a hammer)
You may well find that the relief valve is stuck wide open for some reason..
January-11th-2005, 08:07 AM
#12
Matty's Lead Scrumpet!!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ok City
Posts: 3,143
Originally Posted by import_tuner19
Im in training to become a mechanic well actually an automotive technican and im offended not all mechanics are bad but alot are so i like to trap them, take the car in with no problems and listen to the BS they tell me. Then pull a ton of technical terms on them. it really pisses them off.
January-11th-2005, 01:37 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,099
I worked in a few and ran a few, they are all BAD! They might start out good but after a while they turn. It's like leaving a $20 bill in front of some one that doesn't still. After a day or so of no one taking it, they end up with 20 in their pocket!
The only good mechs are the ones that only get paid by the hour, even then the ride the clock!
Well I shouldn't say all, but 99% for sure.
The only good mechs are the ones that only get paid by the hour, even then the ride the clock!
Well I shouldn't say all, but 99% for sure.
