is there any reason in particular why people get the kartboy bushings with the b&m SS instead of the kartboy SS. ive noticed that alot of the people in this forum have the B&M SS and kartboy bushing combo. does anybody recomend a place where i can get a SS/bushing combo for cheap?

 

I think it is because most people find the bushing after they buy their B&M. I bought mine before I even joined this club and I knew nothing of kartboy before. I then bought my bushings a few days ago, and am going to install them on saturday. The Kart ss W/bushing combo is the best deal for I think $100. I also believe that the Kartboy is shorter as far as the height goes, it looks more sporty than the B&M. but if you are looking for experience in craftsmanship, I would go with B&M. (not saying Kartboy is not as good)

 

I got the Kartboy SS and bushings combo because it just seemed like a really good deal. We have a B&M SS on our Focus so I can't say that we prefer one over the other.

 

if you do a search you can find a bunch of info on this topic

for quicker results, since im posting anyway, the b&m has a shorter throw than the kartboy, therefore racers and other people that like very short shifters usually go with b&m. i personally like the kartboy because it is a good deal, and the bushing helps eliminate that "squishy" feeling shift. Kartboy

ptuning has a pretty good deal on the b&m

 

that is pretty much the story....I had my B&M before Tom came to this site...and before he had his shifter on the market....

I do prefer the shorter shift length....but I have a set of his bushings....and they make a difference....I highly recommend the bushings even with the stock shifter!

 

heya
i'm not sure that the B&M is shorter than our shifter. were pretty close if not a touch shorter.
We have been making short shifters for the Subaru line for the past 5 years. From the lack of aftermarket parts for that platform.
in early 2002 we picked up a P5 for a shop car, bought a B&M because it was there. two days after that we pulled it, both Mark and myself didnt like the way it felt. thus we started on the Mazda shifter, and bushings.

were working on some new parts that should hit fairly soon as long as the testing goes as planned. and hopefully a solutiong for the MP# suspension clunk!

check out our new site

happy shifting
tom

 

The protege is in bad need of engine mounts... what we need are something streetable... not the stiff full urethane AWR mounts that will knock your fillings loose... we need a mixed urethane/hard rubber compound to keep things sane for the street

we need an actual replacement mount set (for the front, rear, and passenger side mounts), not inserts as those are just bandaid fixes

so maybe you can make some replacement mounts as part of your bushings line up?

 

I'll second that, I've been looking at the AWR ones, hmm... I hear bad things...

My buddy just bough 4 mounts for his '90 integra, costed him a total of 60USD for all of them. Now i know parts are cheaper for honda/acura, but more than half? sigh

 

were working on some sort of motormount solution at the moment. i made a few front mount inserts and they seem to be working great. i just need to play with the durometer a bit more.

Quick Q how much do the mounts differ from year to year?
i know on the subies that their all the same from 96 to present
Tom

 

sheesh! someone answer the man. Well, I know the 3rd gens have 3 us spec engines if that helps. By the way I just installed your shifter bushings, great product. Need any testers for your mounts?

 

Front/#2 engine mount is the same for all 3rd gens of all years regardless of engine or transmission
Rear/#1 engine mount is different depending on engine AND transmission
1.6 auto and manual have their own unique mounts (mounts are not interchangable between the 2 different tranny cars)
1.8 and 2.0 auto uses the same mount
1.8 and 2.0 manual have their own unqiue mounts (mounts are not interchangable between the 2 different tranny cars)
Right/#3 engine mount is different depending on engine and/or transmission
1.6 auto and manual uses the same mount
1.8 manual, 1.8 auto, and 2.0 auto uses the same mount
2.0 manual uses its own unique mount; a stiffer rubber bushing is used on the MSP which made a huge difference in drivability (I will be testing the part as soon as I can order it)... Traveler and I theorize that part of the engine mount problem is not just simply front/back movement of the engine, but the engine also having a slight twist motion because of the different and conflicting dampening rates of the #3 and #1 & #2 mounts... in my correspondance with Mazda, I was told that they only changed the #3 mount because it was the only one that needed to be to handle the higher torque and power from the MSP (which does work for some illogical reason... I've driven it back in september)... it will require further testing to determine if that will fix most of the issues
left/#4 engine/tranny mount is different depending on engine AND tranny
1.6 manual uses its own unique mounts
1.6,1.8,2.0 auto uses the same mount
1.8 manual uses its own unique mount
2.0 manual uses its own unique mount

I feel that the 1.6 mounts are strong enough considering the typical power output of that engine (stock and non-stock). The 1.8 manual/auto & 2.0 #3 mount (again, they're all the same) should not be messed with... they are stiff enough for the time being (it is the same mount used on the FWD Sport20; this is also why we hear almost no 1.8 owners complain about the engine mounts... FYI all FWD Sport20s ONLY come with automatics) if you consider that 99% of the manual 1.8s out there, the power output is less than 120whp; no market at the moment. DO make a new #3 engine mount for testing with the 2.0 manual cars... see what happens... feel free to make a beefed up #2 mount also, as it will work for all 3rd gens... don't bother with the #1 mount; it's stronger than the #2 mount and you'll have to manufacture different pieces for the different 3rd gens... don't bother with the #4 mount either... it's VERY beefy as it is.

I will be more than willing to assist in the R&D effort, please let me know.

 

on a side note... an engine swap for 1.6 to 1.8 or 2.0 is fairly straightforward as it is a bolt-on swap... no need to mess with cross members... electrical/electronics stuff is another issue

 

Tom, if your reading, I would buy new motor mounts in a heart beat. I think they are way to soft and alow too much play in the engine, especially in traffic. i have been sceptical about urethane mounts because I heard that they are too stiff, and they cause too much vibration.