gcs118

I am fairly new to the tuning scene and I am still learning all the wonders of the internal combustion engine. However, I would like to upgrade mine with more than simple bolt-ons. I do have access to an engine lift or whatever to remove it from the car, so I can do installs myself with experienced help. Anyways...

how much power/torque might I be looking at gaining if I were to install the high compression pistons, J-Spec intake cam, Mazdaspeed exhaust cam, titanium connecting rods and valve springs (custom), a lighter/stronger/custom crankshaft, and lighter/stronger retainers, locks, springs, etc. etc., and while I'm at it urethane motor mounts and perhaps underdrive pulleys? Installation would be free, except for the shop manual, but otherwise do you think this setup could be had for under $1500USD and what about performance gains? Thanks to all you tech gurus who can answer my questions. Thanks for taking your time for me!

PS - Would these engine mods reduce the life of the engine or in any way harm any part of my vehicle?

carguycw

First of all, there is NO reason to install all those fancy bottom-end and valvetrain components if you are only planning to install the J-spec intake cam, Mazdaspeed exhaust cam and FS-ZE pistons (I assume that these are the pistons you're talking about). These cams and pistons are mild- VERY mild- and they will NOT overstress the stock bottom end. The JDM FS-ZE's crank and rods are IDENTICAL to the U.S.-spec parts, the the valvetrain is also the same other than the cams. There is no reason to contemplate all that fancy, expensive stuff unless you are planning to add a turbo, lots of nitrous, or cams that require much higher RPM than the ones you listed.

Second, you forgot the most important part of the equation if you're planning serious N/A mods... the ECU. The stock ECU's tuning at WOT is VERY conservative- it's not programmed to produce maximum power, it's programmed to withstand extended full-throttle runs in 105-degree weather while running on Mexican gas. The stock ECU's low 6800 rpm rev limit won't allow you to take full advantage of the stock FS-ZE cam, much less something more radical.

Third, price. The cams and pistons are cheap (excluding installation) but all that fancy bottom-end stuff will cost you. I would be suprised if you can get the custom crank ONLY for less than $1500! However, as I already explained, you don't need it anyway.

Also, to answer your question directly, I'm guessing 150 hp with the stock intake, exhaust and ECU. 180 hp if you upgrade them.

Good luck!

TheMAN

the stock crank is very strong to begin with... the stock solid lifters' capabilities are not really known... will have to test the spring rates of the valve springs also... but I have a gut feeling that they won't take anything over the .380 to .400 lift range

gcs118

After doing a little more reading I realized that I would probably also want custom pistons and custom ground cams...and I left out the ECU/engine management because that is a whole different story! Because this is my first car, I am going to keep it NA. I want to learn all about how everything on my car works, and it seems taking apart the engine would be fun and give me lots of experience. I figured I'd upgrade while I was working and poking around in there. Any serious engine upgrades I wouldn't do for at least another year and a half or so. But thanks for the replies, I'll keep all that in mind while I am researching and reading more info. Thanks!

carguycw

If your goal is learning how everything works, I recommend that you do what I did... buy yourself a cheap project car and leave the Protege stock so you will have a reliable daily driver. Do your experimenting on the project car so that you'll still have something to drive if you screw something up or run into problems. I learned most of what I know from wrenching on a 71 Datsun 240Z while I was in college.

I would recommend buying something with good aftermarket support, a strong base of knowledgable enthusiasts who can help you out, and good junkyard parts availability.

gcs118

You know, that's a really good idea, getting a second car to "play with." I hadn't really thought of it. I did see a 1992 Mazda Protege DX on eBay today for just $585, I wish I had found it sooner than 6 hours before the auction ended. But I will be keeping an eye out, hopefully for something cheaper :P Thanks for the advice.

carguycw

If you want an old BG Protege, I would start with an LX. The engine is better, the tranny is better, the brakes and suspension are better, and these cars are old enough that the price difference between a DX and LX is nonexistent, at least in my area. Although the BG Protege is a great car, most import enthusiasts don't know anything about them, which has held prices down- most people selling them around here are just selling them as cheap transportation, and they don't have any idea that an LX is anything special.

gcs118

Not necessarily going after a first gen Protege, but couldn't hurt. I think my best bet would be going after an old Civic. If I happen to see any beaters though for sale on the side of the road, I'll be sure to investigate. Also, at college what do you do with two cars?

nate0123

Park the second car on the street. If you wait till 6 pm, there are plenty of places to park off campus. Do you go to UC?

gcs118

Sounds like a good idea...I don't think I'd have to worry about anyone breaking into a crappy car anyways. And no, I don't go to UC. I still have a little bit of time before college starts, and when it does I don't think I'll be around Cincinnati too much longer.

carguycw

I rented a storage unit out in the country; the owners there didn't mind if I used it to work on my car. I got a 10'x30' unit and split the cost with a buddy who used the back half to store his parts car. Only cost me around $25/month after splitting the cost.

BTW an old Civic makes a great choice for a project car IMHO. They have great aftermarket support, and they can be significantly upgraded using junkyard parts, which is a big plus. I have been VERY tempted to buy an EF Civic hatchback or CRX; they are cheap, fun, reliable cars seem to be largely immune to the ricer-driven price inflation (and corresponding theft risk) that plagues the EG and later Civics in may area.

gcs118

At work we have a number of car and trader magazines, so I'll look in there for some good deals. There are usually tons of cheap-o cars. We shouldn't be too busy tonight, seeing as how a blizzard just fell and the roads are iced over.

Makaveli

Yeah, I suggest getting a second car as well..... CRX or an old Miata maybe???

gcs118

How much do the older Miatas go for?

nate0123

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