Unzipped

I've searched the forum to see if there's ever been a fix posted for the Pro5's hesitation/bucking/rubberbanding issues and still have not seen anything posted.

Has anyone out there succesfully fixed this issues?

To clarify, this is when the engine finally warms up. If you're stuck in traffic and dragging along in first and remove your foot from the gas then try to reapply it slightly, the car makes like a jackrabbit throwing you around your seat until you depress the clutch. I get the same feeling when i take my foot off and place it back on the accelerator in any other gear, it's just not half as pronouced due to the gear ratio (i'd guess).

To settle your questions now, yes, I've had the transmission (yes, the entire thing), plugs, wires, ign coils, all belts, egr valve replaced. The passage leading to the EGR valve, and injectors cleaned thoroughly.

The car is still completely stock, and manual. About 60K on the odo. All the other problems I've had with the car have finally been fixed... this is the last. I'm might as well be **** and find the resolution... if there is one.

Please, if you have any ideas, let me know. I've read about the MSP probs, it's pretty much exactly that, but according to the dealership, there's no fix for the Pro5's.

jaredspangler

This has been discussed to death on this forum. Replace the Number 3 engine mount with either the Mazdaspeed Protege one, or a aftermarket polyurethane on like AWR makes. The stock one is weak, and with the high final drive on our cars, the mount can't take the torque generated, especially during low speed 1st or 2nd gear movements. Do a thread search about this subject, and you should be able to get part numbers for the mount if you choose to go the Mazda way. By the way, with the harder mount you will pick up some vibration, but the transaxle's increased stability during acceleration and cornering will be worth it. It is my next mod.

Unzipped

You're right, it has been. I remember when I first started visiting this board, the issue was up in the air. It's been awhile since so I ended up searching on the premise* that the ECU was the issue.

Thanks for reply, I appreciate it.

acidbbg1

Replacing the Number 3 Motor Mount did not help w/ the Jerking...

It has only helped w/ wheel hop..and making my car viabrate more! LOL

CAI will not help either....I have that it and infact it made it worst...Also some poeple said that changing to Sparkco wires will help!

Once again..it did not help...all it did was lower my idle due to the low resistance...

There is no real fix that i can find....Your best bet..is when your in traffic...

leave yourself more room..to get right into 2nd gear and cruise..it's not that bad in 2nd going on and off the gas!

Hope that helps!

Chas

Protege101

its the EGR valve, had mine replaced about 2 months ago. i had the same symptoms you had, took it to the dealer and it was still under warranty so i got it fixed. but i had to wait about 2 weeks to get my car back because the part was on national back order.

Unzipped

I've already had that replaced. It solved the issue where my car was barely keeping idle or was way above, "pinging", and had MAJOR hesitation issues. This issue has exisited since I bought the car. While it might not be a "Problem" i'd still like to smooth out the ride as much as possible.

Protege101

oh damn, sorry bout that....not really sure what it is, good luck though....

MalkavianMP3

The bucking you're complaining about is the clutch trying to slip b/c you're leaving it engaged without any gas. The second you tap the gas, the clutch disc is compressing the springs in the hub all the way. The buck is a result of that rapid compression of the springs and the recoil from the springs as they release the pressure from the compression. There is no way that I know of to get rid of the bucking. And just in case anyone asks, no, an unsprung hub will not fix the problem.

Omron

God this topic is being done to death, leave it alone..

I have given a post or two on this already...

if you don't wanna spend money, then just utilize Gear 2 on your Auto Tranny from start. You will save fuel and you will not get any bucking. then manual push the car into drive once you clear the proper rav range. And no this will not wear out your gear.

Its been known for a while that the timings and ratios of the Tranny is Shietty. Done and done.

I have heard people using ECU from the MP3 in a regular Pro. with success but either way it has everything to do with timings.

If your willing to spend money thats a different story. But why bother.

Its this way by design, a bad one, but by design.

rktktpaul

Read the thread - manual transmission.

I'm hearing that the MP3 ECU is really tearing up motors because because it runs the car a lot richer.