Doomer_MP3

Reviving a thread.

Where's the best place to get the NGKs? Dealer? Or do they charge more?

How do you go about applying the anti-seize to the plugs? I haven't used it before when putting in new plugs and am curious.

Thanks!

Chris

OldPro

One word... DON'T.

No Manufacturer recommends use of anti-seize compound that I have seen.
The auto's manufacturer should know.
Some people think that A-S will prevent the stripping of threads from the aluminum heads... It won't. The plugs MUST be changed at room temp NOT when hot - That's when you will strip the threads!

There is also the concern that the compound will prevent proper grounding of the plugs, and consequently their operation.

Granted, this is all my 'learned' opinion from years of equipment maintenance and upkeep. So, use your head, ask your mechanic, and walk carefully. Good Luck!

hihoslva

I have ALWAYS seen recommendations to use anti-seize when changing spark plugs. Not necessarily from manufacturers, but from more than a few mechanics and auto-parts stores.

Your Protege has aluminum heads. Spark plugs are steel. The two metals will react with one another over time, especially with heat.

The anti-s compound helps to prevent the two metals from chemically reacting. The issue is that aluminum is a very soft metal compared to steel. If the two metals react in the spark plug threads, it can "seize" the plug in place, requiring excessive force to then remove it. This excessive force can (from I've been told) be enough to rip the aluminum threads from the head if the plug is really seized in there. And then you'll need a new head.

Ever taken the alloy wheels off the car? The "alloy" is largely aluminum, and the brake rotors are iron. The heat generated by braking is enough to begin to bond the wheel and hub, and many people report having to kick the **** out of the wheel, or whack it with a mallet to break it loose from the hub. I've experienced this several times. Same type of issue as steel spark plugs in an aluminum head.

There is NOTHING wrong with applying anti-seize to spark plug threads. In fact, I've done it on my wife's Jeep, even though she's got an iron head on her 4.0L 6-cyl. It makes for easier removal, and makes sure the plug doesn't get stuck.

It's cheap insurance, and I've never read a single shred of evidence that it causes "poor grounding" of the plug or any other issue when applied properly.

The stuff looks like silvery jelly. Simply apply a small amount to the spark plug threads, all the way around. You don't need much, and you can spread it around the plug with your finger, tissue, or rag. Make sure to NOT get any on the base of the plug; none on the electrode or surrounding area. You don't want the stuff IN your cylinders, only on the threads of the plug.

Be very careful when tightening the plugs down. Use of a torque wrench to tighten them to the correct torque is recommended; but if you know how to do things by "feel", then you can just snug them up. I generally thread them in by hand (using a ratchet extension, but no wrench) until they are hand-tight, then do maybe 1/2 turn with the ratchet to set them down. Overtightening them WILL strip your head, which might make you cry.

goldstar

You can get NGK's either from your dealer or from www.sparkplugs.com

I completely agree with hihoslva's good advice about using spark plug anti-seize. It's essential to prevent damage to the threads in the head. The FSM specifies 11-16 ft/lbs (15-22 N/m) torque setting for the plugs.

Also, as mentioned, to prevent bonding I coat the wheel mounting face and the hub with anti-seize and, to date, I have never had a problem in removing my alloy wheels.