Buddha

I was looking in to making my 2003 DX pro an all motor car. I wanted to try since its my every day driver and I thought that would be easier on the motor than forced induction (but I could be wrong and please tell me if I am!!!!). The question I have is what can be done to help in this. I have some ideas of what need to be done to free up the horsepower but what else can be done. Here is the list:

Header.
Catback exhaust.
CAI
Remove first cat and put in high flow cat for second one.
Intake Cam
Port & polish Head
Lightweight underdrive pulley
Lightweight Flywheel
Lightweight waterpump pulley
Some kind of fuel managment like vortech FMU to get in more fuel

Any more suggestions? Or anything to take away cause it would be a waste of money? ANy help would be great.

Thanks
Buddha

Stueck

i found a lot of things for all motor parts that you said on Ebay. they had a tuner on there for 7-22 hp (not sure if it was at the wheel or not) gains. but when i looked into it, the hp started at like 200....so i dont think it was for protege like they said it was, or either it was already built up. heres a link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...922223785&rd=1

Buddha

bump

Roddimus Prime

do NOT buy any ebay "chips" or "tuners". They are scams and can damage your engine.

Also, do not buy any FMU's....firstly they wont increase fuel because you're not adding boost to the motor.

If you're serious about this you should first understand that you will spend a LOT of money for little gain staying all motor. I would suggest buying a whole spare engine and building it one piece at a time and then doing a swap when you're finished.

Custom cams will be better than j-spec cams
Extrude hone porting and polishing over gutting
Haltech fuel management or AEM (for big spenders)
reduced displacement to 1.8L through new (forged) rods/pistons/crank
lightweight flywheel
underdrive pulleys
ditch the AC
cold air intake
full exhaust (header back with no cat's)
15" wheels (as light as possible)

that should just about do it for you. These are all of the obvious mods/upgrades. The sky is the limit but remember the first rule of hot-rodding:

How fast it goes and how good it looks depends on the size of your pocket books.

vielster

How much HP and tourque does the engine loose moving to to the 1.8L Forged block?

Roddimus Prime

it will only lose a slight amount of torque but gain more revs. I think if you look around here that the 1.8L cars are just as fast if not faster than the 2.0L cars. The 2.0L motor being a stroked version of the 1.8L. Less initial torque but higher redline and more "rev-a-bility" would be a big gain.

juddz

Yes! Because one of the limiting factors of engine design is piston speed. Shorten the stroke, and the engine can rev higher due to decreased piston speed (because each slug has less distance to travel per rotation). Now, if you can lighten up the valve train (lighter retainers, etc) you can take out more inertia and she'll rev even higher.

Stueck

keep it up please guys, im learning a lot here!

Buddha

Thanks for all the info. The only reason I wall looking into all motor (other than the fact that i think it would be great to have just as much hp through NA as through turbo!!!) is because of engine life. I need this car to be an every day driver, so I cant have anything to increase horse power that will drop enging life, well dramatically I guess. Thanks for all the info. Do you think me going turbo or getting W.O.M.P will still let me drive it for the 5 or 6 years with no trouble?? Either way Im looking for more preformance and keeping near the same engine life. Cause its the oly car I got!!! and thanks again for all the info.

vielster

Here's a good one...when they switch to the shorter stroke, are the merely changing the crank lobes or are the rods longer as well so as to reach the same point top dead center? I only ask because I'm curious about whether or not the valve clearance increases or not and if the compression isn't quite as high. This seems like it would be optimal for boost, but not for NA.

One other thing while we're on the subject, is the standard 2.0L block safe to boost at low levels (say below 10psi)?

Roddimus Prime

Since no'one has driven a WOMP yet we don't know much about engine life expectency but I would be hard pressed to say it won't outlive a turbo car. I think the vehicles life depends SOLELY on how well you maintain it. FI does cause the life span to shorten but only by 5-10%. So that 150K mile engine may only see 120K miles...

Stueck

hey prime...i got some confusing questions:

say i get my 2.0l into a 1.8l....

1. would i still buy parts for the 2.0l or for the 1.8l? im not too smart on the block and engine itself (although im willing to learn) but is the 2.0l bigger itself than the 1.8l?

2. i got a RAI for a 2 and i might do the 1.8 conversion. would it still be useable?

3. would having 2.0 engine parts on a 1.8l increase hp and torque more than 1.8 on 1.8 (as in RAI for 2.0 on a 1.8 making more than 1.8 on 1.8? im thinking it might, meaning bigger engines need more air, and putting a bigger air intake on a smaller motor gives more power than a small intake on small motor?)

4. there is a part out now called the tornado...twister...something like that where you stick this chory cylinder with immoble blades (i think you know what im talking about) inside your air filter. its sopposted to increase hp, tq, and gas mileage. you said not to buy the 10$ performance chip and now im weary on getting this. whats your opinion?


Prime doesnt have to answer all the questions, i just asked for him because he brought up the 2.0l ~> 1.8l.


thanks everyone, you guys (and ladies if there are any) are awesome!

juddz

Correct. A larger combustion chamber = lower compression ratio. Shaving the head will be necessary to maintain the same compression ratio. But this is an all-motor buildup, so machining work ought to be part of the equation.

Roddimus Prime

if you have a 2.0L motor and you lower the displacement to 1.8L all 2.0L's parts will interchange. the difference in the two is only in the volume of the combustion chamber. Not external dimensions. Everything else remains unchanged.

Stueck

reduced displacement to 1.8L through new (forged) rods/pistons/crank


is this all you need for the 2.0 ~> 1.8???


EDIT: so when i buy more items for my "new 1.8", go for the 2 or get the 1.8 parts?