3rd Gen Timing Belt Change
April-23rd-2005, 03:53 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Torrington, CT
Posts: 45
3rd Gen Timing Belt Change
Hi!
Has anyone tried this on their own? I've got a 2001 Protege ES (2.0 Engine) with 84k, so in just over 20k, I'm going to have to do this. Back around 60k I asked my dealer about this, and it was over $700 by the time they were done adding everything together.
Any advice, tips, or tricks? How bad is it? I've done a search, and haven't found much on DIY Timing belt replacement. I think I've heard that it's a good idea to deal with Water pump while in there.
Thanks,
Eric
Has anyone tried this on their own? I've got a 2001 Protege ES (2.0 Engine) with 84k, so in just over 20k, I'm going to have to do this. Back around 60k I asked my dealer about this, and it was over $700 by the time they were done adding everything together.
Any advice, tips, or tricks? How bad is it? I've done a search, and haven't found much on DIY Timing belt replacement. I think I've heard that it's a good idea to deal with Water pump while in there.
Thanks,
Eric
April-23rd-2005, 09:16 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 262
you might want to start here first:
http://protege5.ugly.net/01-10a.PDF
Its actually not too bad to do if you are mechanically inclined to do such jobs. I'm due for that in 30k miles or so as well. with DOHC you just have to be bit more careful.
If you want to drive all the way through PA and come to Wheeling, WV i'll help you do it.
http://protege5.ugly.net/01-10a.PDF
Its actually not too bad to do if you are mechanically inclined to do such jobs. I'm due for that in 30k miles or so as well. with DOHC you just have to be bit more careful.
If you want to drive all the way through PA and come to Wheeling, WV i'll help you do it.
April-25th-2005, 10:58 AM
#3
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Location: Torrington, CT
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Isn't the 2.0L really the FS, not the ZM engine?
I do have a copy of that manual, but I have never found a certain way to tell. The best I've found so far is the location of the oil fill hole. Seems to be on the right for FS and left for ZM...
Eric
I do have a copy of that manual, but I have never found a certain way to tell. The best I've found so far is the location of the oil fill hole. Seems to be on the right for FS and left for ZM...
Eric
April-27th-2005, 11:38 PM
#5
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5
timing belt change
I just changed my belt (87k) on my 1.6L engine. It wasn't too terrible. If you have a good set of tools and decent mechanical knowledge, you should be able to complete the job in about 4-5hrs I'd say.
One tip I received, which helps alot, is to cut the old timing belt (along the belt) so that you leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of it on the cams & crankshaft pulleys (be careful not to nick your pulleys). This will hold the pulleys in place and give you enough room to slide the new belt on. You won't have to mess with lining up the marks, holding the cams, etc... Then cut the strip of old belt off and slide the new belt all the way on. [do verify that your timing marks line up, though.]
Oh, and one more thing, when you put it back together enough to test it, make sure you orient the slotted wheel the correct direction and that the crankshaft pulley is ON. If you just bolt up the slotted wheel without the crankshaft pulley and run it, the bolts stick far enough through the hub to cut up the timing belt.
Needless to say, I found this out the hard way.. there goes a $50 timing belt... back to the dealership!
One tip I received, which helps alot, is to cut the old timing belt (along the belt) so that you leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of it on the cams & crankshaft pulleys (be careful not to nick your pulleys). This will hold the pulleys in place and give you enough room to slide the new belt on. You won't have to mess with lining up the marks, holding the cams, etc... Then cut the strip of old belt off and slide the new belt all the way on. [do verify that your timing marks line up, though.]
Oh, and one more thing, when you put it back together enough to test it, make sure you orient the slotted wheel the correct direction and that the crankshaft pulley is ON. If you just bolt up the slotted wheel without the crankshaft pulley and run it, the bolts stick far enough through the hub to cut up the timing belt.
Needless to say, I found this out the hard way.. there goes a $50 timing belt... back to the dealership!
April-28th-2005, 06:56 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 262
Originally Posted by todius
......One tip I received, which helps alot, is to cut the old timing belt (along the belt) so that you leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of it on the cams & crankshaft pulleys (be careful not to nick your pulleys). This will hold the pulleys in place and give you enough room to slide the new belt on. You won't have to mess with lining up the marks, holding the cams, etc... Then cut the strip of old belt off and slide the new belt all the way on. [do verify that your timing marks line up, though.].....
i'm going to do that next time i do a timing belt in one of my cars.
January-25th-2006, 10:52 AM
#10
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Location: Torrington, CT
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OK - so it's getting closer to that time for me. (I've got 98,000 miles now).
I have done the homework, by looking at the manual, and I have a few questions, which all pretty much relate to the "special service tools". In a nutshell, my question is do I really need any of them?
The manual refers to some "locking bolts for the cam pulleys", a special tool to "remove the crankshaft pulley", and a tool to "hold the engine" further, it also refers to some tools to "install the oil seal".
Do I really need these tools? Has anyone done it without them? I would really hate the idea of getting everything torn apart, and then screwing something up because I didn't have one special tool.
(note this is a 2.0L engine)
Again, thanks for any help!!
Eric
I have done the homework, by looking at the manual, and I have a few questions, which all pretty much relate to the "special service tools". In a nutshell, my question is do I really need any of them?
The manual refers to some "locking bolts for the cam pulleys", a special tool to "remove the crankshaft pulley", and a tool to "hold the engine" further, it also refers to some tools to "install the oil seal".
Do I really need these tools? Has anyone done it without them? I would really hate the idea of getting everything torn apart, and then screwing something up because I didn't have one special tool.
(note this is a 2.0L engine)
Again, thanks for any help!!
Eric
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