Traveler

Well, another one is done. I'm not going to be able to send it off for ceramic coating until Monday as the coatings place is down for inventory and shop retooling/cleaning this week. Is anyone interested in one of my shorty headers? I will need to know what type of coating to put on it if someone wants one. The pics of my first one (with heat wrap, not coated) are linked in 'header pics'. The next one will be coated.

Here are the colors available:

Satin finish-$469

Satin Black
Satin Cast Iron (looks gray)
Satin Titanium (bronze)
Satin Fresh Blast (flat silver)
Gray Ice (anthacite gray/glossy)
Bright Blue Matte (light to med. blue)

Cermachrome finish-$499
Looks like polished aluminum

The Cermachrome will stand up to 1300 degrees F, and the satin finishes are good all the way to 2000 degrees F.

Keep in mind that these are hand fabricated so they take about 5-6 hours to cut, weld and fit. I ain't making much on these due to parts prices but I can definately say that I'm using decent parts. The flanges are 3/8" thick and laser cut. The tubing is all mandrel bent and then butt welded at the joints and overlap welded at the flanges.

The coating place garnet blasts them and then walnut shell blasts to clean and smooth them, then final blasts with aluminum oxide to make the ceramic adhere better. Then they coat them inside and out. For pics of the finishes available go to www.performancecoatings.com and then check out the 'header coatings' link.

StuttersC

I wish I had the money for one right now...It certainly sounds cool and would look nice with the blue satin finish on my blue car.

enormiss

http://www.geocities.com/traveler12820/enginepics.html
Nice work..... Coupla questions.
Fit a P5? How close to the hood does it come?
And does it bolt to the cat without any modification?
THANKS

Traveler

It will fit the P5, MP3 or LX/ES 2.0L. It won't fit the 99-00 1.8L due to interference with the factory coil packs. Bolts right to the factory EGR tube, cylinder head and factory cat. The only mod you'll have to make is removing the factory inlet snorkel over the top of the radiator. That piece doesn't do anything anyway since it is blocked off when the hood is closed. The one on my car clears everything including the hood just fine. The height is about the same as the top of the valve cover but slightly lower than the coil packs.

enormiss

That's from a previous post of yours. How'd you remedy that on your car and not to be a pain in the ***, but any plans of fabricating something for this.

Traveler

First off, you have to open up the cat outlet if you are going to do this. I used a die grinder and final finish honed it from 1.71 (stock as cast) to 2.05. I used a 2.25" mandrel bent pipe and then attached mounts to it for the factory heat shielding and O2 sensor. I had a couple flanges made at a machine shop for the ends. The flange that attaches to the cat uses a 2.1 ID hole which matches the 2.25 pipe ID perfectly. Basically I duplicated the manifold in larger diameter pipe so that everything would bolt up. Then I had about a 3 foot length of 2.25" pipe bent and custom cut it to length to fit from the 2nd cat forward to the front of the system. I then cut off the old 1.9" OD stuff and welded it all together. Then I simply bolted the cat with the new piece back up to the factory mounting points.

Traveler

by the way, If anyone is interested in actual dyno results, here they are.

Last time I dynoed car (intake and exhaust cams, high flow intake and cat back)

RPM POWER TORQUE
2500 50.7 106.4
2750 53.6 102.4
3000 60.0 105.0
3250 65.6 106.0
3500 72.8 109.2
3750 78.9 110.5
4000 84.5 110.9
4250 90.0 111.2
4500 95.9 112.0
4750 99.5 110.0
5000 100.9 106.0
5250 104.8 104.8
5500 106.8 102.0
5750 106.9 97.7
6000 107.3 93.9
6250 105.2 88.4

With the header

RPM POWER TORQUE
2500 49.2 103.4
2750 56.1 107.1
3000 60.5 105.9
3250 64.9 104.9
3500 74.1 111.3
3750 81.2 113.7
4000 86.2 113.2
4250 96.3 119.0
4500 98.5 114.9
4750 103.2 114.1
5000 105.7 111.1
5250 108.8 108.9
5500 109.7 104.8
5750 111.2 101.6
6000 112.1 98.3
6250 113.4 95.3

The HP was still climbing but the dyno places ignition trigger started to cut at 6250 so there is no data past 6250.


Summary of gains (after 3500 since low RPM bounces around)

RPM POWER TORQUE
3500 +1.3 +1.9
3750 +2.3 +3.2
4000 +1.7 +2.3
4250 +6.3 +7.8
4500 +2.4 +2.9
4750 +3.7 +4.1
5000 +4.8 +5.1
5250 +4.0 +4.1
5500 +2.9 +2.8
5750 +4.3 +3.9
6000 +4.8 +4.4
6250 +8.2 +6.7

I picked up 7.8 lb/ft at the peak (4250) and a max of 8.2 HP at the peak (6250). Notice the big difference in the higher RPM where the header allowed it to make torque longer. The HP was up all through the RPM range but the big difference is it doesn't fall flat at 5750 like it used to. Now it pulls hard through redline. I actually have to watch to make sure I don't over-rev now which is something I never had to do before. My butt dyno says power is still coming on at 6500 but the dyno shop couldn't get a reading at that RPM so it's conjecture until we can get good data. The HP was still climbing at 6250 though so it didn't look like we had hit peak yet.

The dyno curve was a little bit bumpy lower down. They tested the car in third gear on that pull. We did it in fourth gear also and the bumps were gone, but they didn't record it. The peak power and the peak torque were nearly identical though. Within a couple tenths of each other.

Hope that gives you guys some additional info!

freekwonder

wait, im want your header, but im a little cofused now.

what are all the modifications that have to be down to make this header work on the 2.0l motor.

Traveler

Those were just a list of other mods I'd done so you could compare the before and after numbers. The intake and exhaust mods are something I'd definately recommend no matter what else you do to the car. The jury is still out on the cams. I only saw about 1.5 HP out of the intake cam and about 3.5 more from the exhaust cam. The exhaust mod I did on the lower cat didn't seem to make much power at first, but it may have contributed a little to the high end HP gains although I didn't see those until I added the header. The big story is down low with a lot more torque through the midrange and keeping it up high.

The JBA and Edelbrock header for the Focus is supposed to make 5 lb of torque on a manual tranny car. I made more than that on the same size motor so I'm pretty happy with it. The HP gains were nice also especially up high where our engines fall flat.

The header is expecially going to complement any other mods done to the car. I can't wait to add some engine management now that I feel I've uncorked it a bit. I've got decent intake and exhaust flow, I just need to add some more spark and maybe take away a little fuel in the upper RPM range.

Traveler

The header got shipped to the coating place on Monday. Should arrive Wednsday. The shop says 5 businees days or less turn around, so I hope to have it back by next Friday. I'll take pics and get them on the net asap after. I decided to get the 'Cermachrome' finish as a lot of people like the polished look.

StuttersC

Cool...Hopefully the shop will get it back soon, I'd like to see pictures of it.

nightowl

my question is if i get a new header....will i still be able to put a turbo kit in there?

freekwonder

cool, thanx for the quick answer. so to run the header you dont need to modifiy anything except for the snorkle and the lifting brackett. you just did that stuff to get more power. cool. only 468 dollars to go, and ill order one.

TrexPro5

- nightowl -
<snip> my question is if i get a new header....will i still be able to put a turbo kit in there? <snip>

No you would need a turbo header for a turbo.

RebelRacing

You mentioned that the header wont fit on a 1.8L engine because the coil pack is in the way...Is that the only restriction you've deducted so far? I was thinking a 1.8L-er could move the pack around the corner and locate it above the water neck. Just a thought .
PS--> Nice work on the header...I might snag one from ya...if I do your post cat mod!