protegeboy78

Wasn't sure where to put htis but general maintanance seemed to be the place. Fram has something called the "sure drain" which attatches onto the oil pan where you drain the oil, it has two parts, one that goes where the old nut goes and another part with a tube on it that screws into the oil pain and drains the oil into whatever you point the tub into. It makes changing oil tons easier. Thought i'd share.

turbonium959

You know, I bought it. But I haven't used it yet. Ever since I switched to synthetic, it is months before I change oil now. Though I will have to change it soon. How was use, and did the oil pan plug fit OK, instead of the stock one?

protegeboy78

I've changed my oil three times since installing it and its so easy. I just jack the car up, put a galloon jug under the oil pan and twist on the hose and it drains right into the jug. The pan plug fits perfect, there was no problem. Just curious but how long do you go between changes with synthetic cause every since i bought the car in Janurary i've used synthetic but change it every 3000 miles. Should i wait longer? i do a lot of highway travel the 3000 racks up fast.

The_Oz

IMO, I think it's a waste of money to buy that Fram thingy. I use the old fashion way of draining and haven't made a mess.

As for your drain interval query. I strongly recommend that you have your engine oil analysed by a chemical lab (check locally first before venturing on out-of-town labs). They will analzye your oil, give you a chemical composition report and normally give you a short paragraph whether you should change your oil earlier or later.

This costs me $23CAN from Hewitt/Caterpillar who is only 30min. from my house. Very cheap and highly useful. You can tell a lot from an oil analysis report (probably more info than a compression test).

Please note that you cannot compare your engine with others (regardless whether they are the same or not). Driving habits and driving conditions are key factors in changing engine stability, health, and reliability. Just because turbonium959 can safely change his oil every 8000km (as an example) doesn't mean that you should do the same - regardless if you have the same engine and using the same oil.

Regards,

Oz

turbonium959

Yeah Oz I would strongly agree with you. Driving habits are very important. For example I was changing oil every 5000 miles when I was working 8-5 for 6 months. I logged on about 15K, and changed oil three time. Now that I am back in school, I would wait 5 or months before I would change oil again. My car is idle right now, not being used. So I will wait til about October to November, or for as long as the weather is nice, and change it. Then I would not need to change it until after Winter or in the beginning of Spring. But thats my way of thinking. Also remember that besides running synthetic oil (which last long), you will also need a long lasting filter. I only know of two - Mobil1 Oil Filter, and Fram X2 Oil Filter. Both are around $10. That way if you use synthetic oil with regular filter, you need to change the filter after 3000 miles or so. So there is a gap in change times for oil and filter. I always like to do it at the same time.

Oz as for the old fashioned. I am only a rookie at this, so I had spilles and then some all over me, and everywhere. I also do not have a garage, so I have to be careful with spilling and stuff, otherwise, I can get fined heavily.

protegeboy78

another problem with the old fashion way is how do you get the oil into a container to take somewhere and dispose of the old oil? if you drain it into a pan then you have to try and pour it into something else to take to the place to get rid of the oil, with the fram sure drain you can put it directly into the correct container and take it down to get rid of the oil. Plus its really cheap and much easier to hook up the hose than to remove the nut in the oil pan. What is this test you are talking about, i've never heard of it, and if i get it done every time checking to see if i need my oil changed it will cost the same amount and changing my oil so its like i'm paying twice to change my oil. What kind of information can this tell me also.

Green Skanka

Hey Tim, you sound like a sales man... LoL... Yeah the other Pat at the meet last sunday with the 1st gen he brought 1 and showed all of us it.. It's a neat little thingy, but i'm still gonna stick with the normal. I don't trust a plastic "Check-valve" holding all that hot oil from coming out of the hole..

The_Oz

Spills will be common. I've had my fair share. However, I find our Proteges are very clean when draining their oil. I have yet have to experience any oil drippage when removing my oil filter. I normally use a drain pan with a special beaker. The beaker helps me dump the oil to an old container which I leave draining for 10min. I'm also lucky to be close to an oil recycling depot that would gladly dispose my oil for free. I use to place shop towels underneath the drain pan, but now the only thing I worry about is my hand when I remove the drain plug.


ProtegeyBoy78 -> Look in your local yellow pages for chemical labs that can cater to the public. Also, industrial businesses such as Caterpillar have a dedicate Fluid Analysis Lab (which I use here in Montreal) that cater to both private and public customers. Here is something to start you off if you're looking for out-of-town oil analysis labs:

http://www.pecuniary.com/synthetics/oilanalysis.html

Out-of-town labs seem to be very expensive ($20US vs. $23CAN local). I normally get my report within 4-5 days, but I drop off the oil sample rather than mail it.

As for how often you should do it. It totally depends. If you're very ****, then you would probably want to have it done on every oil change. I normally do an oil analysis whenever I change oil brands or oil viscosities. But on average - provided that I stick with one brand and one viscosity - I do an oil analysis twice a year.

As an example, here is my oil analysis from Hewitt/CAT not long ago. I am very happy to report that my engine is very clean and could've gone farther with my oil before draining.

Oil Brand: TECH2000 10W30 100% Synthetic
Sample Date: 07/13/2002
Mileage on oil: 5000km
Makeup oil added: approx. 200ml

Copper: 4ppm
Iron: 4ppm
Chrome: 0ppm
Lead: 4ppm
Aluminum: 4ppm
Silicon: 4ppm
Molybdenum DiSulfide: 174ppm
Sodium: 2ppm
Magnesium: 24ppm
Tin: 0ppm
Boron: 1ppm
Nickel: 0ppm
Zinc: 1375ppm
Calcium: 2841ppm
Phospor: 1017ppm
Potassium: 0ppm
Soot: 0%
Oxidation: 32%
Nitration: 15%
Water: NIL
Antifreeze: NIL
Viscosity @ 100Celsius: 9.6

Metals such as Aluminum, Iron, Copper, etc. are very low indicating that engine wear is very low. High amounts of Molybdenum DiSulfide, Calcium, Zinc, & Phospor means there are still a lot of anti-wear, friction modifiers, anti-oxidant additives left in the oil. Soot is an astonishing 0%. Only 32% of the oil has been exposed to oxidation and 15% to nitration.

Regards,

Oz

NegatiZE

Wow, this thing looks like a really good idea. When I change my own oil, the hardest part is draining all that used oil into containers so I can take it somewhere to be recycled. What a mess. With that hose thingy and a gallon jug, itd be sooo much easier. I'm getting one of these before my next oil change!