1st Gen Protege/323/GLC General/Maintenance Discussion for 1990-1994 Models (BG Chassis) and 1981-1989 GLC/323 Models (BD and BF chassis)

Just Changed My Axles Yesterday

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Old November-27th-2002, 12:53 PM
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Originally posted by Identity_X


I still wouldn't pay $1000 ................ I would rather take apart the whole car than pay that .................
Agreed. I paid less than that for the whole damn car.
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Old November-27th-2002, 04:47 PM
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Originally posted by zchild92


Agreed. I paid less than that for the whole damn car.
well, I didnt say I would pay 1,000 dollars either, I would probably just sell the damn thing.
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Old November-27th-2002, 04:50 PM
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thats cool man.......

THESE "HOW TOO'S"

CAN YOU DIRECT ME TO THEM.....I HAVE TO CHANGE MINE ALSO.......WHEN I MAKE RIGHT ..TIGHT TURNS MY AXLE OR CV BOOT WHICHER ONE IS DOING IT,..CLICKS...


I THINK THIS IS THE MOST COMMON OVERALL THING THAT GOES WRONG WITH PROS....WHAT do you guys thinkkk]]]]



anyway..thanks..

later
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Old November-28th-2002, 02:27 AM
  #19  
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If you do a search, you will find a recent thread that had both links (separate for each side). Wil (Gro Harlem) has one for the passenger side on his site, and Darryl (Mazdaspeedwest) has one for the driver's side. Darryl would have one for the passenger side, but he didn't have access to a digicam when we (he and I) replaced it a few months ago. When you know what you're doing and have the right tools (a GOOD impact wrench is number one), it only takes an hour or two.

And most FWD cars only go about 100k on axles. The boots on our cars are the weak points, but 100k is at least average (if not better than) for a small and powerful fwd car. Another friend needs to replace his passenger side axle at 150k. The drivers side is still going strong (although we'll probably change it too, while we're working on it).
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Old November-28th-2002, 09:14 AM
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Originally posted by zchild92


Agreed. I paid less than that for the whole damn car.
my car was $6000 when I got it. It's depreceated a lot in the past few years.....
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Old November-28th-2002, 10:12 AM
  #21  
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I found the old service record. Here's some of what it said

"Removed auto trans to be able to get broken st ub axle out, found roll pin wedged in splines, causing axle to be seized in diferential splines, reinstalled transaxle and road tested."

"Aftermarket axle seized in diff needs trans removed to get broken axle out."
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Old November-28th-2002, 03:42 PM
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Originally posted by Davard

And most FWD cars only go about 100k on axles. The boots on our cars are the weak points, but 100k is at least average (if not better than) for a small and powerful fwd car. Another friend needs to replace his passenger side axle at 150k. The drivers side is still going strong (although we'll probably change it too, while we're working on it).
One of my axles (forget which one) has lasted 207K so far I did however replace the outer boot on it as the original was starting to tear. I even got away with using the infamous 'split boot' design!!!(ordered it through Mazda) That was 60K(?) ago...
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Old November-30th-2002, 07:20 PM
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Originally posted by jeremy
thats cool man.......

THESE "HOW TOO'S"

CAN YOU DIRECT ME TO THEM.....I HAVE TO CHANGE MINE ALSO.......WHEN I MAKE RIGHT ..TIGHT TURNS MY AXLE OR CV BOOT WHICHER ONE IS DOING IT,..CLICKS...


I THINK THIS IS THE MOST COMMON OVERALL THING THAT GOES WRONG WITH PROS....WHAT do you guys thinkkk]]]]



anyway..thanks..

later

Here Ya Go Man: This is the how to for the driversside off of Darryl's How To Page.
http://automediazone.com/pro/90LX_enter.htm

Wil Took His Page Down For The Passenger Side. Sorry Man.
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