1st Gen Protege/323/GLC General/Maintenance Discussion for 1990-1994 Models (BG Chassis) and 1981-1989 GLC/323 Models (BD and BF chassis)

horn?

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Old June-21st-2003, 06:27 PM
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horn?

where in the world is the stupid horn? I had it disconnected a while back cuse it was going off by its self, they told me that i would need to fork over 300 to get the thing fixed, so i said, no thanks. In anycase i have fixed the problem but i can not for the life of me find the horn.

Anyone know where it is?
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Old June-21st-2003, 07:31 PM
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under passenger headlight/cornerlamp.
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Old June-22nd-2003, 11:21 AM
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My horn went off without warning one day, So i tore apart the steering wheel and disconnected it from there. Now I have no idea what to fix so it's still disconnected.
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Old June-22nd-2003, 12:35 PM
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thanks mazdaspeedwest!!

ya mine decided that at 1:30 in the morning it was a good time to wake up the neighbors. I actually did not even hear it until the dude from across the street came over and told me it was going off. I took it to Pepboys (DEVIL!!) and they told me i bent up the assymbly, i asked how and they told me that i must have hit the horn so hard that i bent it .......ya....ok.....

anyways, they tried to bent it back into shape, it was ok for a day or two, then it happend again. then they told me it would be 300 to fix it...um no thank.

the wierd part was that it would not stay on constantly, it would come on then off, and if i un did the battery when it was on, then reconnected it, it would not come on for a while. oh well.

But now that you have informed me that the horn is on the passanger side headlight area, i think i know what the real problem could be. that was where i got into a wrech about 2 years ago, the frame still is not straight totaly and maybe on of the wires needs to be replace, or such. oh well

normaly i would not care that the horn does not work, but my car wont pass inspection and i am about 6 months over due lol anyways, thanks for the help.
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Old June-22nd-2003, 01:11 PM
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usually if you have a psycho horn that goes off whenever, it's the horn pad on the steering wheel. i had the same problem. went to mazda, spent i think like $15 for a new horn pad, problem fixed. the way the pads work is there are two metal pieces that have foam between them. when you push the horn pad, the metal touches in some spots completing the circuit. the reason they go bad is the foam wears out and the circuit is always completed.
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Old June-22nd-2003, 02:54 PM
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knowing that i just dealt with this fiasco... i kept hitting my horn hard cause...well, i have some minor road rage issues . so after a while, the horn got stuck and i couldn't figure out what to do, so i cut the wire under the hood in a panic and shorted out a a fuse and was stuck in a mess of things. anyway, when i later took apart the steering wheel, i noticed that the center piece to the steering wheel had indeed cracked to the point where if you reconnected the horn, it would remain on indefinately. i was baffled as to what to do, but the horn pad and the center piece were both destroyed, and to replace these parts, i was quoted around $90 bucks for the pad and centerpiece. THIS IS where your issue lies. horn pads are simple, just go to the dealership and order a horn pad, just remember that the dx horn pad is a different part number than the lx horn pad in that the lx has the cruise control paddles mounted on the pad itself. what he meant by bending the assembly was you cracked the center piece of the steering wheel i'm guessing, but no way in hell should you pay $300 bucks. and if you just want the no cost option, remove the center piece to the steering wheel (held in by 3 10mm screws) and disconnect the plug connecting to the horn pad. my advice, unless you are going to replace your horn physically as i did, don't mess with the wiring under the passenger side headlight. to physically get GOOD access to there, you physically have to remove the bumper... and thats a project within itself. the way i went about everything was just going to the junkyard and finding an intact hornpad and centerpiece off of another first gen LX and i lucked out for 10 bucks.
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Old June-22nd-2003, 03:09 PM
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Originally posted by demoninvictus
knowing that i just dealt with this fiasco... i kept hitting my horn hard cause...well, i have some minor road rage issues . so after a while, the horn got stuck and i couldn't figure out what to do, so i cut the wire under the hood in a panic and shorted out a a fuse and was stuck in a mess of things. anyway, when i later took apart the steering wheel, i noticed that the center piece to the steering wheel had indeed cracked to the point where if you reconnected the horn, it would remain on indefinately. i was baffled as to what to do, but the horn pad and the center piece were both destroyed, and to replace these parts, i was quoted around $90 bucks for the pad and centerpiece. THIS IS where your issue lies. horn pads are simple, just go to the dealership and order a horn pad, just remember that the dx horn pad is a different part number than the lx horn pad in that the lx has the cruise control paddles mounted on the pad itself. what he meant by bending the assembly was you cracked the center piece of the steering wheel i'm guessing, but no way in hell should you pay $300 bucks. and if you just want the no cost option, remove the center piece to the steering wheel (held in by 3 10mm screws) and disconnect the plug connecting to the horn pad. my advice, unless you are going to replace your horn physically as i did, don't mess with the wiring under the passenger side headlight. to physically get GOOD access to there, you physically have to remove the bumper... and thats a project within itself. the way i went about everything was just going to the junkyard and finding an intact hornpad and centerpiece off of another first gen LX and i lucked out for 10 bucks.
peace
I broke mine after I punched the **** out of it repeatedly. (Stupid bitch pulled out in front of me at a highway intersection and proceded to drive away. ) I just found a new assembly on eBay. I tried to bend it back into shape but it was toast, if I hit a bump on the road just rite it would go off.
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Old June-22nd-2003, 03:23 PM
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Just do what sileighty did -- replace the horn pad, it was $10 from my dealer!!! NOne of this looking on ebay or unbending stuff. No point in spending that money. Those contain a layer of foam which gets brittle over time, causing the horn contacts to go off randomly (especially at night ) .
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Old June-22nd-2003, 04:30 PM
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hey guys yall were right, it was the pad, everything is cool now, i just grabbed some of that weather stripping foam that i had laying around and stuck it on there.

GOOD AS NEW!!! yay thanks for all the info eveyone!
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Old June-23rd-2003, 02:09 PM
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Why not just pull the horn fuse...
 
Old June-23rd-2003, 02:17 PM
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Originally posted by Bruce95fmla
Why not just pull the horn fuse...
Because it's also the brakelights, at least on my 323.
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Old June-25th-2003, 12:11 AM
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My horn would go off randomly too. So I rigged it to a button I bought at RadioShack.
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Old June-25th-2003, 12:21 AM
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here's the simple ($10) solution for the horn that goes off randomly in case anybody missed it. go buy a new horn pad at dealer. it will be around $10. Take the cover off the steering wheel (3 screws on the rear), and replace it. It's that simple, no jury rigging required! You don't need to pull the fuse and lose your taillights, either. (And the horn of course, which is a safety feature). Don't make it more difficult than it needs to be.
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Old June-25th-2003, 12:32 AM
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but the button looks cool and cost my 2.99.
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Old June-25th-2003, 12:36 AM
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Originally posted by photoeye0
but the button looks cool and cost my 2.99.
hehe. sorry I just wanted to make sure that people aren't overlooking an extremely easy solution, with suggestions like unplugging the fuse and stuff...
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