Damn horn crapped out...
#1
Damn horn crapped out...
Yeah, I performed a search, at least I'm not the only one w/ this problem!!!
My question is; does anyone know how much a replacement horn plate (in the steering wheel) assembly costs? I don't want to rig it up, as it's only going to break again.
My question is; does anyone know how much a replacement horn plate (in the steering wheel) assembly costs? I don't want to rig it up, as it's only going to break again.
#2
Re: Damn horn crapped out...
Originally posted by Bill
Yeah, I performed a search, at least I'm not the only one w/ this problem!!!
My question is; does anyone know how much a replacement horn plate (in the steering wheel) assembly costs? I don't want to rig it up, as it's only going to break again.
Yeah, I performed a search, at least I'm not the only one w/ this problem!!!
My question is; does anyone know how much a replacement horn plate (in the steering wheel) assembly costs? I don't want to rig it up, as it's only going to break again.
if you press the steering wheel do you hear the horn relay click? (under the dash) if so, then the steering wheel plate is not the problem.
find a similar Protege or 323 in a wrecking yard and grab the whole steering wheel.
#3
mine also did that
Mazdaspeedwest is right, its something inside the steering wheel it's self. I went to a local junkyard when mine started to act crazy! I unhooked it then bought another hornpad off another protege- didnt fix it though. When i need a horn, i yell instead! hehe
Earl
Earl
#4
Darryl,
So you are saying its not the deteriorating foam that separates the contacts that is making the horn going off, its the horn relay? I had this problem a year ago and placed small pieces of electrical tape where the contacts would hit. But when it started to do it again recently, I applied more tape and still it was super sensitive, going off when I would torque the screws down. So I just disconnected it.
So you are saying its not the deteriorating foam that separates the contacts that is making the horn going off, its the horn relay? I had this problem a year ago and placed small pieces of electrical tape where the contacts would hit. But when it started to do it again recently, I applied more tape and still it was super sensitive, going off when I would torque the screws down. So I just disconnected it.
#5
I had the same prob. I just used a spring from my extra weedeater and put electrical tape on the top & bottom...then reinstalled the horn button back on...works fine and it hasn't bothered my neighbors since...
#6
Ok, here's the skinny....
I called the dealer this morning, they had a horn plate in stock. It cost me $16.10 !!!!!!!!!!! That's like less than a case of beer..
So stop rigging your horn buttons and go get a new one!! It's too cheap!!!!!!
So stop rigging your horn buttons and go get a new one!! It's too cheap!!!!!!
#9
Horn relay and wire colors
Originally posted by reythm
Darryl,
So you are saying its not the deteriorating foam that separates the contacts that is making the horn going off, its the horn relay? I had this problem a year ago and placed small pieces of electrical tape where the contacts would hit. But when it started to do it again recently, I applied more tape and still it was super sensitive, going off when I would torque the screws down. So I just disconnected it.
Darryl,
So you are saying its not the deteriorating foam that separates the contacts that is making the horn going off, its the horn relay? I had this problem a year ago and placed small pieces of electrical tape where the contacts would hit. But when it started to do it again recently, I applied more tape and still it was super sensitive, going off when I would torque the screws down. So I just disconnected it.
The wire color from the steeing wheel is Green/Orange and is in the main ignition harness (or a smaller harness right next to it, don't recall) The wire rests at 12v+, so clip your light or MMeter to ground and probe it. It's a negative trigger, so voltage will switch to ground when the steering wheel is pressed. If all checks out here and there is still no relay click, then on to the relay. This test can also be performed at the relay itself.
the horn relay is above the clutch pedal in a cluster of about 5 other relays. The one you want is (if looking forward from the drivers seat) the black one on the left. (see pic below)
The horn relay wires are:
Green/Orange - negative from steering wheel switch (rests at 12v+)
x2 Green/White - 12v+ from STOP 15amp fuse in fuse box
Green/Yellow - 12v+ output to the horn in passenger side fender
If there is no clicking, first check for power on the Green/White, or simply check the STOP fuse in the fuse box. If there is power, then chances are pretty good the relay is dead, but for fun, check the Green/Yellow for 12v+ when the steering wheel is pressed.
The horn is located under the passenger side corner lamp. (Green/Yellow) in a single pin plug. The mount for the horn is it's ground, this can also be the cause of a non-functioning horn, the contact area can become corroded.
#12
Thanks Bill!
My horn had been either on or off, depending on the last bump I hit, or it would go off for no reason. I messed with electrical tape, etc., but it would always eventually mess up again. Thanks to Bill, I went to the dealer today and picked one up - it was $11 and change here in Austin. Works like a champ, and I have needed a horn on two or three occasions and didn't have one, so now I feel safer.
Thanks to all in this thread and to Bill.
Thanks to all in this thread and to Bill.
#15
Re: Horn relay and wire colors
Okay, the other night I was driving home and the **** infront of me starts moving backwards. I go to hit the horn and nothing, except that clicking.
I'm pretty sure the horn is dead or the contact area is corroded.
How do I access the horn? Do I need to remove the passenger side corner lamp?
I'm pretty sure the horn is dead or the contact area is corroded.
How do I access the horn? Do I need to remove the passenger side corner lamp?