advanced timing
August-20th-2003, 01:39 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Two corners ahead
Posts: 63
I think you two guys are talking about two different types of timing.
The timing you adjust at the distributor, with or without (much better with) a timing light is the ignition timing. The timing of when the spark is ignited during the cycle.
The timing you adjust at the timing belt (with cam sprockets) is the camshaft timing. The timing of when the valves open and close in relation to the pistons.
To adjust the ignition timing: (All from memory, so follow at your own risk)
Start the car, warm it up to operating temp.
Connect a jumper from GND to TEN.
Connect timing light.
Shine timing light towards the crank pulley. You'll see the
timing marks on the pastic cover. One of them is
marked "TEN" (or just "T", I can't remember). This is 10 degress BTDC.
Each mark is 2 degrees.
Loosen up the 2 bolts that hold the distributor to the head.
Rotate the distributor (I believe it's counter clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard).
Check timing with light. Mark on the crankshaft pullye will move in the same direction that you turned the distributor (I think).
If the idle speed changed, adjust it at the adjusting screw at the throttle body with the jumper on GND to TEN still installed.
Tighten distributor
Check timing with light one last time.
Disconnect timing light.
Remove jumper.
Go.
The timing you adjust at the distributor, with or without (much better with) a timing light is the ignition timing. The timing of when the spark is ignited during the cycle.
The timing you adjust at the timing belt (with cam sprockets) is the camshaft timing. The timing of when the valves open and close in relation to the pistons.
To adjust the ignition timing: (All from memory, so follow at your own risk)
Start the car, warm it up to operating temp.
Connect a jumper from GND to TEN.
Connect timing light.
Shine timing light towards the crank pulley. You'll see the
timing marks on the pastic cover. One of them is
marked "TEN" (or just "T", I can't remember). This is 10 degress BTDC.
Each mark is 2 degrees.
Loosen up the 2 bolts that hold the distributor to the head.
Rotate the distributor (I believe it's counter clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard).
Check timing with light. Mark on the crankshaft pullye will move in the same direction that you turned the distributor (I think).
If the idle speed changed, adjust it at the adjusting screw at the throttle body with the jumper on GND to TEN still installed.
Tighten distributor
Check timing with light one last time.
Disconnect timing light.
Remove jumper.
Go.
August-21st-2003, 04:42 PM
#6
The Horns of Jericho
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Californ-I-A (909)
Posts: 320
ahaha. yeah. considering that gas is like 2.60-and-up for 91 gas, it's not worth it. You could try doing on 87 gas, but then you risk pinging the hell out of the engine. Eventually something will break or melt. I have it advanced right now (I think to 14), but the computer always puts it back when it's hot out. The only time I really feel a diff is at night when it's nice and cold. That may also be due to the PRM intake I installed.
Gas prices go down! Everyone say it.... *ahem* oh. sorry.
Gas prices go down! Everyone say it.... *ahem* oh. sorry.
August-27th-2003, 03:40 AM
#7
Smoking or Non-Smoking???
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Philly
Posts: 731
throwing internals is all part of the game 
to me, financially, if advancing my timing were to destroy my engine, the difference in premium and regular would be enough for me to have a rebuilt engine installed in my car... saying over a years time and with the amount of driving i do for delivery. it's a sad world, and the yields aren't that terrific to warrant sending your car 6 feet under
peace
to me, financially, if advancing my timing were to destroy my engine, the difference in premium and regular would be enough for me to have a rebuilt engine installed in my car... saying over a years time and with the amount of driving i do for delivery. it's a sad world, and the yields aren't that terrific to warrant sending your car 6 feet underpeace
August-30th-2003, 06:21 PM
#8
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 416
Originally posted by demoninvictus
throwing internals is all part of the game to me, financially, if advancing my timing were to destroy my engine, the difference in premium and regular would be enough for me to have a rebuilt engine installed in my car... saying over a years time and with the amount of driving i do for delivery. it's a sad world, and the yields aren't that terrific to warrant sending your car 6 feet under
peace
throwing internals is all part of the game
to me, financially, if advancing my timing were to destroy my engine, the difference in premium and regular would be enough for me to have a rebuilt engine installed in my car... saying over a years time and with the amount of driving i do for delivery. it's a sad world, and the yields aren't that terrific to warrant sending your car 6 feet underpeace
October-22nd-2003, 02:22 AM
#10
14.3 @ 98mph stock tires
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 356
Originally posted by Protoss
you can't advance the timming from the disty. it run directly off of a crank in the block. but i know id you talk nicely to a mechanic it will only take him 5 minutes to advance your timming.
you can't advance the timming from the disty. it run directly off of a crank in the block. but i know id you talk nicely to a mechanic it will only take him 5 minutes to advance your timming.
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